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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
I think it looks a LOT better than stock.
In reality cleaning the UNI is not a big deal. Just spray some cleaner on it, rinse it with water (from the inside out), repeat once if necessary, let it dry, and re-oil.
air filter cleaner is even more difficult to find in Asia than air filter oil. what are some alternatives to cleaner that will do the same job but are more of a generic product?
Grease-cutting dishwashing liquid works for me. I use DAWN.
I did it. If you go ahead with it, I'd recommend center-punching and then drilling a 3rd hole for a bolt in the license tag, down at the bottom tip. My tag started tearing with just the 2 upper bolts.
I currently use just the flushmount tail/brake light from the Procycle kit, with an LED 1157 bulb that flashes 3x then goes solid. I also use the stock black lower fender piece, the stock license illuminator with a 194 LED bulb from www.superbrightLEDs.com, and a Procycle license-mount stashbox bolted to where the stock tag bracket and lower rub-nubby used to be. The black lower fender piece protects better from mud flinging up on my back. Mine is trimmed up a little though. It only protrudes beneath the tag by about .5". I also have some BRIGHT red 8" LED strips on either side of my fender.
I like the look and functionality of my current setup. My tail/brake light looks nice and neat, and it isn't likely to bust apart like the stocker did. I have a locking compartment for registration and my pressure gauge. I have side and rear red reflectors. My back doesn't get slathered in mud. My tail is seen better and uses less wattage than stock. My tag is fastened at all 4 corners.
I'd get just the light and a stashbox. Put a 3x flash LED 1157 bulb in the light. Put an LED 194 bulb in the tag-illumination housing. Add red LED strips on either side of the fender, either upper or lower piece.
The DR is pretty darn versatile and simpler. It's isn't known for being buzzy, burning oil, or overheating.
I have both a DR350 and DR650 rear wheel set up for the 650. I have a more aggressive tire mounted on the 18" wheel and I run either depending on the ride.
As noted elsewhere in the thread, the DR350S/SE (street legal version) wheel will work, the DR350 off-road model does not have a cush hub and _might_ work with the right spacers but I think the S model wheel is a better choice for the 650. It just drops right in using your existing sprocket carrier.
The bearings are the same in the two. The brake rotor is not. You'll need a DR650 rotor for the DR350 wheel. Also, the 18" 350 rim is more narrow and I'm running a 120/90 on mine.
Thats what I use on my foam uni.....works great for me as well
I too have owned both. I really like my DR and it fits my needs better (it's more off-pavement oriented) but I think the KLR is a better choice as a street bike. The 2007 and newer KLRs have a pretty nice faring, are smoother and have better suspension then the earlier models.
Its the re-oiling part that I have problems with. Do you saturate the filter with oil or just give it a light film?
^^what he said^^
I have both also. The 650 has a 2.50 rim and the 350 has a 2.15. (width) and the 350 has a rimlock if memory serves me. I'll have to go out in the garage and look. I put a rimlock on the 650 wheel as well.
I run knobbies most of the time, but I have a Bridgestone Trailwing that came off a new DRZ 400 on the 18" right now, from a trip I took in Sept.
I do recall having fittment issues with the 650 rotor on the 350 hub but can;t remember what I did. The bolts aren't the same and I ended up doing something different. Like flipping the rotor over or something. really can't remeber, but it was solveable maybe someone can remember what they did.
I was lucky to get my 350 wheel with an axle, chain adjusters, sprocket hub and cushions and a new 41 tooth sprocket for $75.
Simple Green is what I used to clean my K&N. It worked better than the actual cleaner they sell. As for oiling it, I went with a fairly light spray.
Thanks Guys. I will keep searching for the dr350 wheel. I was hoping to pick up a donor RM bike and use the front end and both wheels. I have found more than a few complete bikes that need top ends for under $500. Anyway thanks for the help.
This is the same thought I had. I have a DR350 and am useing an RMX swingarm with the stock DR350 (dirt model) wheel. The spacers are just cut down a hair as the RMX swinger is narrower. I think that if the stock DR350 rim can be made to work with the RMX arm then the RMX wheel should be able to work on the DR650. Also, I think that if you are using the DR350 wheel as your dirt wheel and always run a knobby on it the cush drive wont be needed, the knobs will buffer the trans on road. My DR350 is a plated dirt model with no cush and it seems fine on the street but it doesn't spend much time there. It has the same forks as the RMX as well, as it is a '98. They are great forks and are fully adjustable, they seem like a no brainer mod to me as they fit the stock DR650 triple.
Thats fine if it just needs spacers. I have a lathe to make spacers. I don't care about the cush hub like you said it will only be for my dirt/ ice tires. I might just get a complete bike for the front end and see If I can make the rear wheel work too.
Hey guys, my DR is having a hard time cranking when its cold. 5 or 6 times of holding down the starter for 2-3 seconds before it turns over. Time for a new battery or will a few days on a tender fix this? Its happening every cold morning.
I use Diesel fuel to clean my air filter. The oil/dirt in the filter dissolves immediately. I keep a half gallon bottle of Diesel in my garage for cleaning the air filter and deep cleaning the drive chain. When I am done with the dirty Diesel, I dump it in the same 5 gallon jug I use to store used motor oil. And then I dispose of the whole mess by pouring it down the kitchen drain.
(just kidding) Every 3-4 months I take the 5 gallon jug to my nearest service station to be recycled.
Once the filter is cleaned really well with Diesel (literally takes 30 seconds), then I give it a quick wash with a solution of dish washing liquid and H20. Then I let it dry overnight, and re-oil and re-install. And no, the Diesel does not harm the filter media.
Might be time for a new battery. A tender will give it a bit more juice when you go to start it, but since it's just a trickle charger and doesn't have a jump-start mode, it'll only do so much.
BTW, I do NOT recommend the fancy new lithium-ion jobs. I have one on my FZ1 and it won't start in super cold weather without using a tender just to keep the damn thing warm.
Did the front RMX and DR650 wheel interchange?
I had a '97 RMX and had Works Enduro Rider (WER) dial them for me. They were the BEST forks I ever owned. Been trying to get near that action outta my KTM's ever since.
Would be nice if the front wheels swappes, so I can have the Trailwings on one set and full knobs on the other.
Not sure what "cold" is in Plano, but my DR650 fired right up yesterday at 20 degrees. I've found that when the battery is on it's last legs, it will only start cold, right after you take it off the tender. Check the fluids in the battery. Had a time that it acted dead' but adding fluid saved the ride.