the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2005
    Oddometer:
    11,549
    Location:
    Trying to leave CT

    Not sure what "cold" is in Plano, but my DR650 fired right up yesterday at 20 degrees. I've found that when the battery is on it's last legs, it will only start cold, right after you take it off the tender. Check the fluids in the battery. Had a time that it acted dead' but adding fluid saved the ride.
  2. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,128
    Location:
    Passing ADV Stalkers in California
    No ... never saturate the filter. I simply drizzle on the sticky Foam filter oil, then work it into the filter with a rag, gently squeezing the filter until the oil is distributed evenly. You DO NOT need a lot of oil.

    What's MORE important ... is putting a bead of GREASE along the sealing edge of the filter where it contacts the Air Box. This will prevent both dirt and water from getting into the Carb and motor.

    Filter Cleaning 101 (YMMV)
    1. Carefully remove dirty filter from air box, don't let crap around filter into Intake tract.
    After removing filter ... clean air box well.

    2. Immerse Filter into odorless Kerosene. Use rubber gloves and work Kero
    into filter, wringing gently to break down former oil and dirt. Wring most of Kerosene out .. but DO NOT damage filter.

    3. Insert filter into HOT water and Dawn dishwashing soap. Wash and ring out gently, then RINSE very well. Wring gently and put out in Sun or inside to dry before re-oiling.

    4. Re-oil and install. (don't forget grease bead on sealing edge.

    Lots of variations on this of course. Some use Dish soap alone. Some use Gasoline (:eek1:eek1:eek1), or Diesel. (stinks) Gasoline is dangerous and will break down the glued seams in your filter and destroy the foam over time.

    Diesel will do the same over longer time. Kerosene seems fairly harmless to the foam with brief immersion and gets filter clean more quickly than Dawn alone. YMMV. IMHO, blah Blah Blah. :D
  3. disconnected

    disconnected rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    8,205
    Location:
    Pittsburgh
    oh... and by the way, I just ordered a new rear spring and front springs from Procycle. I also ordered a few other tidbits.
  4. shaddix

    shaddix Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2012
    Oddometer:
    647
    Location:
    Central AL
    I don't understand how air can get under the filter? I never use any grease because that little plastic piece is pressing down with a lot of force onto the side of the air box
  5. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2005
    Oddometer:
    11,549
    Location:
    Trying to leave CT
    took my DR out today just to shake out the cobwebs


    [​IMG]

    it was 40 degrees and about to rain so I only went 32 miles. Playing the Nutmeg State Tag-o-rama


    [​IMG]

    Felt good to get out and ride. First ride, ('cept for around the block occasionally to keep the carb fresh) since Thanksgiving.
  6. dljocky

    dljocky Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    884
    Location:
    Yorktown, Va
    Rusty, that's a good looking bike. What is that on the left side of the tank?
  7. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2005
    Oddometer:
    11,549
    Location:
    Trying to leave CT
    Straps for the tank bag, taped up w/ duct tape. Kind of KLR ish. :lol3 Plus the one over the seat.
  8. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    5,181
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    I use mineral turpentine, or turps, on Uni Filter's recommendation for cleaning, and no soap or water. Just clean with 'turps' and allow to air dry. There will be some residual oil left in the filter, so you don't have to add as much to reoil.
  9. rpet

    rpet Awesometown

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2010
    Oddometer:
    829
    Location:
    El Lay
    Rusty - what seat is that? Seat Concepts tall?
  10. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2005
    Oddometer:
    11,549
    Location:
    Trying to leave CT
    Thanks for the nice words DL jockey.

    Seat Concepts Tall.

    Yes, it's the very first one that they built. I pestered the hell outta them to get it in time for my Skyline Drive, Blue Ridge Parkway ride last Sept. He gave me a wicked deal for making him get around to it. Love the thing.

    Seat makes the bike look mean.:D The old blue/yellow was ugly. So were the yellow fork boots. It looks a lot better from far away.:wink:

    There is still the purple frame and the knee marks where the paint is rubbed off the tank. Same with the boot wear on the frame.
  11. Chill

    Chill Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    359
    Location:
    QLD Australia
    It's a cow. :evil
  12. Chill

    Chill Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    359
    Location:
    QLD Australia
    I enquired about brake upgrades a few weeks ago and got some good advice here. Thanks.

    Anyhoo, I sorted them last weekend. Was a bit nervous as I've only ever done new pads before, never fluid or bleeding. I swapped the brake lines for braided Galfer lines, new EBC pads and new fluid. I was looking for a bit more bite to the brakes and they've turned out better than expected. I'm chuffed with the results and chuffed I did it myself, I love working on this bike. Anyway, I know a lot of people only ever do the braided front line but I'm glad I did the rear too. I use it a lot commuting, and the feel is much better now. Managed to strip the phillips head out of one of the front master cylinder screws but drilled it out and put some stainless M4's in there, seems ok, no leaks.
  13. Rob.G

    Rob.G Mostly Harmless

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,328
    Location:
    Fulltiming in an RV! Currently NW Oregon
    A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

    Rob
  14. Emmbeedee

    Emmbeedee Procrastinators

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2008
    Oddometer:
    10,653
    Location:
    Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
    Aren't they called "Cheesehead"? Seems to be what they're made of, anyway. :rofl Just checked - they are not. "A cheese head screw is one with a cylindrical head."

    Anyone tried this alternator from RMStator? At $160, it seems like a good deal.

    [​IMG]
  15. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    21,632
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    JIS screwdrivers - http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/jis-screwdrivers/
    http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-2nd/dp/B005NIY3PM

    the special tool for most is using a hand-hammer impact tool.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
    http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P
    i've used a dremel tool in the past with a thin cutoff wheel and made a slot for a flathead screwdriver to work.

    later found out the trick, if you only have Philips screwdrivers, is to use the next size smaller one (so it gets the tip down in deeper in the JIS screw) and tap it from the top with a hammer. this helps drive the tool head deeper into the screw and also shocks the screw some to loosen it. if the screw is somewhat buggered up, from previous attempts, tapping the screwdriver in harder can work. often the steel screw, alum. cap & brake res. main body somewhat fuse together if the fluid has never been serviced.

    here is a way to modify Philips bits/screwdrivers to fit better in JIS:
    http://www.kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget-jis-screwdriver-tips

    when dealing with the JIS screws on the floatbowl, the same technique can be used but often those hand-hammered tools is key. that is 1 essential tool that every home mechanic should have! once you have those screws out replace with allen bolts from PC, Jesse or the hardware store.
  16. blackcap

    blackcap Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    565
    Location:
    Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
    wow i didnt realise there were metric and imperial screwdrivers. the jis is pretty standard in australia. you can buy them in sizes 1, 2 and 3 and i carry one of each as those small removable bits that go into T handles. having the right size screwdriver for the screw will make all the difference in the world.
  17. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    21,632
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    oh the US likes to go it's own way vrs most of the rest of the world. same crap with metric vrs sae bolts.
    metric bolt numbering is so much more logical vrs sae.
    seems many of the US cars have gone with metric bolts but the building industry is firmly entrenched in the US standard of measuring length.
  18. isaac004

    isaac004 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    936
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Ok, an update here on this issue which I posted about on post 70057 around Oct 2012. I sent the Intiminators back to Ricor, as they said they wanted to have a look at them. They opted to rebuild them, part of which involved replacing the oil ring which confirms that it was probably an older version which swelled when soaked in oil.

    I reinstalled the Intiminators and have since taken the bike out on some commuting rides, and they are much better. You feel the stiffness of the anti dive, but there is no binding, and the fork always returns to regular ride height (unlike before where it would stick.

    So all is good now! :clap
  19. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    21,632
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    thanks for the update!
    i have some of the original ones so i might look into that too:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588
  20. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2003
    Oddometer:
    679
    Location:
    Central Pennsylvania
    Yeah, for the um-teenth time, an $8 ~ $10 impact driver is all you need. 45 years of cracking open Japanese float bowls and old side cases held by X-head screws, and I never stripped one! :deal