Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Thanks for all the responses!
Yup In private I am about the same, unless it is a cheap bike. I use the money to support my habit. Here is a peek into my garage.
There are ten bikes or rolling chassis in there and another two in parts boxes.
I need all the money i can get
These are my money pits and money makers
The 2nd dual sport revolution (1st one was in the 70's) has been going on now for quite a few years. Where ya been Carl? American Suzuki guys claimed the DR650 was selling better than it ever has ... that was in 2007, and sales have continued strong.
Dual Sport sales (for all brands) were about the only segment NOT to be totally hammered by the recession. The old guys at Am. Suzuki did not get it ... because they are seriously out of touch with whats going on in the MC riding world. But the younger guys DID get it. Suzuki also promised a "new" Dual Sport ... but so far? Nothing.
This 2nd wave Dual Sport surge, IMO has been brought on by several factors ... but the ADV Rider/Long Way Round movement has been a factor for sure. Also, lots of returning riders remember how much fun they had back in the 70's on some or other dirt bike or dual sport.
Blessing and a Curse? This is true. Fewer guys are riding Cruisers and Sport bikes, more out there on Dual Sport bikes ... actually going someplace. And yes ... thousands will hit the trails this year. The aftermarket guys are the real beneficiaries here. Farkel Madness!
Maybe even the 60's, I was 14 and riding a Yammy 250 2 smoke but back then they were called "Enduros". A little later I went to a Triumph T100 high pipe. Then got sucked into the first wave Chopper craze. (I'm glad both waves are over now.) My first DR was a 91 and my current is my third. My first DR I road all over New England and people would always say" You rode that dirt bike all that way?!
Although I miss the days of blasting all over the place on my 2T with no license or reg, I find a lot of fun now riding dual sport. Unlike the days gone by, I don't get chased by the cops and now have enough time and money to set up the bike and travel. Barring any serious crashes, I can see myself doing this for a long time. It's kind of like back packing but easier and louder.
Rich: I predict that you will have a DR650 real soon.
maybe we can set something up so you can try mine.
Are there any other fork braces out there besides the SuperBrace and RSW Racing ones?
DR = Dirt Rat!
'09 DR650SE (It's white)
'96 DR350/441SET (It's white too)
BST carb - Off-idle bog issues and things to check:
I also found this you sent me before of things to check so others can see if they have carb issues.
"I would pay particularly close attention to:
The float needle's tip: Check with and without magnification for a witness line where it has been contacting the seat. If one is found, the float valve either leaks or will begin leaking soon, causing a high fuel level or overflowing.
The needle seat o-ring: Make sure it fits snugly and is not cracked/hardened/deformed/shrunken/otherwise damaged. If it's not in good shape, it will leak, causing overflowing.
The slide guide: Make sure that the indentations concentric with the bore in the bottom corners adjacent to where the slide bottoms are still .010" (.25mm) deep or more. If they are not, the emulsion tube is at risk for wear. See http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=300, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=301, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=298, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=299, and http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=68638.
The slide: Make sure there is no vertical grooving on the downstream side and that the lift hole area has not been increased by drilling. Drilling causes excessive slide guide and slide wear, which in turn accelerates emulsion tube wear. See http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=304, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=302, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=303
The emulsion tube: If the outlet has ovaled, the mixture will become overly rich at low rpm at all openings. The wear can sometimes be hard to see, but keep in mind that .0004" (.01mm) of wear will be discernible on the dyno as an approximately 1 percentage point change in CO (i.e. it the CO was 4% before the wear, it would now be 5%). Sometimes spinning the tube between your fingers can help you see the wear, as can inserting something known to be round, however if the slide guide is worn more than .010" (.25mm), you can pretty much be assured that the emulsion tube is worn. See http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=305, and http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=33350.
The pilot jet: I recommend replacing it as a matter of course.
The float height: Using a float height setting tool, set it to it to 14.7mm.
More photos can be found over at http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184.
Even though a small segment, the dual-sport segment is growing in numbers each year. More than likely your dealer read his dealer news mag. saw that and decided to give the DR a whirl. Let us know if it sells.
The dual-sport surge, especially for simpler bikes like the DR & KLR, is these bikes are affordable standard bikes for most. Many do not go off-road and just become run around and commuter bikes. With all these talks of the "return of standard bike", such as the CB1100, it's really bikes like the DR (that never left) that are the bearer of the standard bike torch.
I'd bet for the ones that see dirt, a good chunk are just easy county roads and such.
Just added a 45º vision x light to my DR
You like that better than the Rigid? I've been looking for supplemental lighting for both my bikes.
First of all, thank you all for the warm welcome. I will certainly be doing a safety course as soon as the weather warms up. Until then, I'll be practicing around my house. I've also updated my location as suggested.
I have a question for you guys. This being my first bike, I'm not quite sure what to expect as normal/abnormal. Something that has concerned me is that when I start my bike for the first time in the morning (usually around 30 degrees), it fires right up with the choke on. It idles fine and I'm able to turn the choke off within a few minutes to let it idle on it's own but, it takes 15 minutes or more before it will take light throttle without breaking up/bogging. Is this something to be concerned about or considered normal?
Sounds like a jet is a little clogged or something.
Sea Foam for a few tanks, then determine if it's still a problem.
I appreciate the offer to ride yours. Had I ridden one prior to looking at the one for sale, I may have felt better about buying it. I called the guy today and told him I'd give him $2600 (the price I walked away from yesterday). He had someone coming to look today and ended up selling it to him. Assuming the miles were accurate and there was nothing wrong with the front end, I'd have to say I missed a great deal. Let me know when you want to go riding. I'm in Enfield and my mighty KLR250 needs only a brake bleed to be ready.
Normal. But after a minute on choke ... you can just ride off. Leave the choke on for another minute or so ... riding will achieve warm up ten times faster than sitting at idle. Don't over rev it or Lug it for the first five minutes ... after that ... anything goes.
Be sure to practice what you learn in the riding course ... especially things like identify and avoidance. Try to learn how NOT to target fixate ... many Noob riders go off the road or hit someone in their path because of that. Most times you can STEER around obstacles. But you have to stay cool and NOT fixate on the car in your path. Look for a safe out.
Practice tight figure 8's, holding throttle on steady, using rear brake to control speed. Go ahead, lean that sucker OVER! Learn to counter steer. Understand what that is. Remember .... YOU WILL GO WHERE YOU LOOK. Don't fixate. Doing tight figure 8's ... turn your head left and look way left. You will go there.
Also learn to safety check your bike. Tire pressures are important. Check 'em once a week at least. Know you tank range ... and know how to switch to reserve instantly without looking, must be done by feel. This could save your life.
Do braking practice. Learn to use BOTH brakes and learn how NOT to lock the rear brake and how to really hammer the front brake when you need to.
It's a jungle out there ... ride accordingly. Be safe, have fun!
30* F? Brrrr...getting cold.
Normal, as Grifter said. It will buck and snort for a little while at small throttle openings when cold, but it should run tolerably well at just a bit higher speeds. Keep it at the lowest throttle where it still feels smooth and let it gradually warm up for 10 minutes as you ride.
Try to avoid jumping right onto the freeway with cold motor.
Does anyone know a source or part number for the drilled rear brake master cylinder guard I've seen on some DR650's? I had one on a KLR650 that was off of a Ninja.
Ok so I know it has to have been covered in here somewhere but I guess I'm technically challenged today or something. I'm wondering two things for my 00' dr650:
One: How do I bypass the clutch safety switch thing, and the kickstand one?
Two: Can anyone recommend a headlight and surround that looks and works better than stock? I looked and the trail tech torch but it doesn't list a DR as compatible?
I am also thinking about adding a single 40degree Vision X. please let us know how you like it in the deep dark.