the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Been here awhile

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    Thanks for all the answers. I'd say the "consensus" is that the Shorai is not a good battery for the DR, at least not for serious off road. :deal
  2. Carbster

    Carbster Adventurer

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  3. dutch97501

    dutch97501 Been here awhile

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    So Ive had a DR650 for a few years now. I put a RM250 front end on it and had the shock redone. Bigger tank and wolfman luggage and a concept seat. The only mod I havent done is a pumper carb. I live about 20 miles from Jessi at kientech and he has new pumper carbs in stock. The bike runs great and will handle most of what I throw at it. I miss the snap that a dual overhead cam motor has to offer. Would a pumper carb over come this or would I be better off with a more modern bike?
  4. Kommando

    Kommando Long timer

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    A pumper carb gives better throttle response and low-RPM luggability than the typical CV carb.

    There are now all kinds of things you can do to a DR motor. I'd talk to Jeff at www.procycle.us about high-compression and big-bore pistons, aggressive cams, and big-valve heads. Talk to Kientech and MX Rob about exhausts, EFI, and iridium sparkplugs. 14/42 sprockets will also give you a bit more grunt than stock.

    What exactly do you want the motor to do differently?
  5. inroads

    inroads Wimberley,Texas

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    I have had the CV carb and the pumper with fmf header and Gsxr pipe. IMO save your money and keep it stock. If you want real changes you have to go big bore and then the cost and reliability weigh in and then I think you should just look at more modern bikes.17 year old air cooled technology is best left alone and stock.
  6. greer

    greer Long timer

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    I'd suggest you go as low as possible to start. The DR is a heavy bike for beginning riders, especially females who are apt to have limited upper body strength. I think guys sometimes fail to take that particular point into consideration. I've had good results with a Seat Concepts standard height kit with FIRM foam. Then use a belt sander or electric carving knife to shave it down to height and narrow it a bit along the sides where it meets the number plates. The firm foam is good stuff; it can be shaved thin and still offer better support than the crap stock seat. I tried the low kit and did not like it. It was too soft and felt like it had a dip cut in it that kept me in one spot crammed against the tank. Most of us agree the stock foam is trash. While you're pondering the Seat Concepts kit, go ahead and take the stock seat apart and shave the hell out of it so she can see where she stands. You may want to pull the factory foam off the pan entirely and try a couple layers of carpet padding or some such to start. The cover will go back on and tuck under the pan enough to be usable without the staples. I know all this must sound fairly crude. Please bear in mind I'm a redneck from Kentucky; we go at most things with a pocket knife, baling twine, and duct tape.

    Sarah
  7. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    IMO 17 year old tech needs fiddling to get the best out of it. A pumper and pipe make a big difference.
  8. inroads

    inroads Wimberley,Texas

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    My experience: the CV stock vs.Pumper/header/GSXR pipe made a small difference,to say nothing of the drop in gas mileage and the $700+.
    IMO,not worth it. (BTW,jetting per Kientech)
  9. sandwash

    sandwash Long timer

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    At least 90% or more who changed out to a pumper carb would disagree with this statement.I may have lost 5 mph,but the fun factor out ways that big time.It all depends on where and how you ride.It's the way the fuel is delivered.Nothing wrong with stock,but most us just can't leave things alone.It makes the DR motor run like it should.People who have bad mileage have poorly jetted/setup carbs.Talk to the people with the Dyno Jet kit who get crappy mileage,it's over jetted. Stock HP is 34-36,with the mods about you are close to 40.HP cost money,If that is you want to do.And it runs a hole lot better.And you don't have to spend 700$ if you do it right.
    Stock cark/Dyno Jet vs Pumper is apples and oranges,for me how and where I ride it well worth it.
    My FCR-MX DIYwas right around 200$ installed and running.Exhaust:35FO,mid-pipe and flange right at 200$.Took some time ,but then again I am a cheap/poor bastard.
  10. SkunkWizard

    SkunkWizard recycle crime scene tape

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    :thumb :deal
  11. inroads

    inroads Wimberley,Texas

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    Im speaking for myself.Sandwash is speaking for "90%":huh
    You do have to spend $700,as stated unless your buying used stuff.
    You say"some people just can't leave things alone" that is part of the problem
    I say start with a $18 engine sprocket and a tuned carb and keep your MPG and better altitude compensation.
  12. Krusty ...

    Krusty ... What? Me hurry?

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    A flatslide with an AP will provide quicker response than a CV, but in the case of the DR, it's not a dramatic difference. I'm happy I swapped to the TM, but I'm also happy I found a used one.
    I've heard the DR650 motor described with a lot of complimentary words, but "snappy" ain't one of them. Look at its power output on a dyno chart. The torque curve is pretty flat, not spiky. It's more of a tractor engine than a sportbike.
    You might be better off lowering the gearing and adding 1/6 turn throttle tube if you want to feel the acceleration faster...
  13. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    +1
  14. SCExpat

    SCExpat Ex-expat

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    [​IMG]Just finished doing the back tire on my DR650. I used a wire wheel to clean the rim and especially the spot where it is welded together. Used brake cleaner just before putting on the liquid tape. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Performix-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/16888975
    The liquid tape Was not as easy to use as I had hoped. It had a tendency to shrink a bit as it cured. Some of the nipples turned out really good but others had a small hole in it. I can only guess that this was from the solvent evaporating and escaping via this little hole. So I ended up putting 4 coats on to make sure all the little holes were covered. Aired up the tire and overnight it lost about 2PSI :(: Stuck it in the kiddie pool and all the spokes/nipples were good but......there was a small leak between the tire and rim. Going to ride it a bit and hope somehow it seals up. Just really want the ability to fix a flat in a minute without pulling a tire/tube on the side of the road. The front tire is next. :deal
  15. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    My mileage stayed the same.
    Jetting as per MX_rob.
  16. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    I've had both the pumper and of the course the stock. I went back to the stock carb because I'm weak and puny and the heavy return spring after all day in the saddle was just intruding too much into the ride.
    Short story short. I used the PC jet kit on the stocker and to be honest the difference between the two is nil.
    I adventure tour the bike for reference



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. bross

    bross Where we riding to?

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    Good writeup here... and mixed reviews

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=845718
  18. SoPaRider

    SoPaRider Been here awhile

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    SCExpat

    I'll be sendin' positive vibes your way, in hopes that your able to pull this off, plugin' tires is a whole lot easier that changin' out tubes. I've known KLR owners who made this work!

    Jeff (SoPaRider)

    '09 DR650SE
  19. SCExpat

    SCExpat Ex-expat

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    Thanks. I got the idea here: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?5090-Tubeless-for-under-10-00!!!!

    Lots of SuMo riders making it work. I have been real lucky with not getting a flat on a bike for......years. But, that luck will run out sometime and when it does I do not want to have to fix a tube on the side of the road. That is the only reason I am doing this.
  20. lonewolf97

    lonewolf97 Long timer

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    Ok