the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    I replaced my old castle nut with a self-locking nut and I hated it. The darn thing tried to cut the threads off the end of my axle. :2cry I used it twice and went back to the castle nut. I've been using this and it works pretty well (sprung snug, doesn't vibrate). But I like Emmbeedee's idea even better.
    [​IMG]
    Although I've had the DR for 'awhile', I don't like to check my chain tension as described in the manual. I frequently stand on the right side of the bike, lie over the seat (like a deer on the fender), grab the axle/swingarm with my left hand, pull my weight down on the seat, and check the chain tension with my right hand. Do NOT pull the bike over and pin yourself to the garage floor: your wife will NOT be happy. There should be a noticeable free play, NOT snug (but not the 1.2-1.8" in the manual, because that's for an unloaded check).

    About the upper chain roller, yes remove it; but I don't recommend using a bolt to plug the 'now empty' hole. Here's a pic of where my chain was hitting the bolt that I used to plug the hole.
    [​IMG]

    Sooooo, use a set-screw, available at the nearest Home Depot (8x1.25mm). Look closely and you'll see the blue Loctite that I used to keep it there.
    [​IMG]
  2. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    I do believe Mill understands what the enricher circuit (choke) does. Read his post ... he said he "broke" the choke. If you had ever worked on a DR then you'd know how flaky the plastic enricher unit is. It uses a plastic fitting that threads into Carb. Easy to screw it up. This is why many swap from cable system to manual system.
  3. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    Why would you change the bolts? If the threads show no damage I believe they should be re-usable ... with loc-tite of course. The stock nyloc nuts may not be 100% ... but with loc-tite should hold fast and be safe.

    Self torquing axle nuts are garbage and may damage your axle threads. Old news. Stay with the quality, made in Japan, Suzuki Castle nut. It works.

    I use the same exact system shown below. All good the last 30K miles its been on there. I almost NEVER need to adjust my chain ... as I use the best.

  4. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    It's kind of difficult to break something that doesn't exist.

    Regards,

    Derek
  5. mill

    mill Adventurer

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    So if the oring that holds the float up tight to the body fails, this couldn't cause overflow???? In my method of thinking, if the float wasn't tight in it's positioning and fell down loose inside the bowl, the needle (which is attached to the float) would not be positioned in it's proper location and would not seat, hence causing the overflow.

    Regardless....all I know is that I was broken down in MX due to a problem that I payed a shop to address, and they didn't. I replaced the dried out orings McGuyver style, and was able to complete the next 900 miles of my journey and made it to my destination.

    And yes...I will be interested in one of your rebuild kits and "fuel enrichment" plungers to take with me upon my return in July. I will be sending you an email soon. Thank you for your condescending "tone"

    Regards

    Dick
  6. spotlight

    spotlight Noob

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    Not sure if my post went through on my smart phone.....I would assume JB weld in the hole would serve the same purpose......and tomorrow I plan to remove that locking nut and see if the axle has a cotter pin hole....bit it seems to work fine maybe they changed something on the 13.....no clue....thanks for the tips and pics
  7. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    The needle seat o-ring and the cold start enrichment feed pipe o-ring sort of hold the float cage in place when the bowl is off. When the bowl is installed, there are three plastic tabs attached to the cage that hold it more securely in place by being sandwiched between the main carburetor body and float bowl.
    Sounds good. Whenever you are ready.
    I try to stick to the point. I don't mean to offend.

    Regards,

    Derek
  8. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Although condescending at times, Derek is only attempting to be accurate, very accurate. Once you understand that, he makes complete sense.

    JB weld in what hole?

    Here are the three plastic tabs Derek is talking about, two on the right and one by the left o-ring.

    [​IMG]
  9. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    Ahem... The Fuji-Lock axle nut IS an OEM Suzuki part. It's been standard issue on DR650s since 2005.

    I've never heard of self torquing nuts. What a brilliant labor saving idea. :lol3
  10. TrophyHunter

    TrophyHunter Long timer

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    Maybe I missed this before 'tween all the carb posts but I finally understand the difference. Thx for the brief description.
  11. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

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    Well, put my klr in the flea market and hoping to make the switch to a dr. Can't afford to spend a lot right now, so I'll be buying used and hopefully modded to my liking.

    What about should I expect if all goes well, compared to the klr? I currently also own a plated XRR, I imagine a dr will be somewhere in the middle. I'm actually thinking about selling the xr next, assuming the dr is good enough off road. I think it will be.

    I can see that in stock form the dr isn't really a 'highway' bike, but it seems like with a windshield it'll compare to my 2005 klr, or at least be close enough. I have a taller windshield and heated grips on it, got me spoiled a bit. I'm planning a mostly paved and light off-road 3,000 mile trip this summer, need to consider such things. The guy I'm going with is on a klr and rides it like a motocross bike. It gets interesting following him sometimes.

    From all I've seen there is basically no issue with getting the bike hot, I guess for one reason or another it just plain works. Actually I haven't seen any issues that seem to really plauge the dr's, except for the third gear that seems to be fairly rare.

    I pack light normally, so I don't see luggage being much of a concern. Some wolfman bags and a small luggage rack should do me. The bag I use on my luggage rack is about 20" long, I'm pretty sure it can fit longways. It basically fits everything I need, I'll just lose the back seat cooler storage.

    Hopefully this can work. I tried to get a dr last fall, ended up with a trade deal for the klr and somewhat regret doing it. If anyone's looking to trade I'm listening.
  12. Thumper Dan

    Thumper Dan Been here awhile

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    Hi,

    I'm installing ricor intiminator and have some questions: :D

    The current oil level, without any spring (or anything) fully compressed, is about 180mm from top of for to start of fork oil or about 7 inches.

    Do I fill to this level after intiminator is back in and fill to 6.5 inches (fully compressed), as per the instruction on this thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588

    Preload:

    If the base thickness of the intiminator is around 15mm or so; can I just remove this amount from my spacers to give my my original preload?? :huh

    thanks heaps
  13. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    And my 2001 has one too :deal
  14. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    I'd go to 160mm from the top and if you're using the original springs, leave the spacers at stock length.

    Original preload is usually not enough preload...
  15. wayno

    wayno Long timer

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    :lol3:thumbFrom what I have heard a "self torquing nut was not possible last time I heard...that is if u want any kind of accuracy.....:D
  16. wayno

    wayno Long timer

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    The only thing I found was there was a lot more room on my 03 KLR for comfort when on long adventures and less need for bigger tank...Just fixt the doohucky and every thing was fine then I got the idea I needed something different. What year is ur KLR?
  17. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Holy schmoley, I hope you guys are writing this down.
  18. TRAVELGUY

    TRAVELGUY Old Traveler

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
    The stock spacers were to much preload with the Intiminators when I first installed them. Ride was very ruff. Called Ricor and talked to a tech. After taking his advise to make a shorter preload spacer I am extremely happy with the performance of the front forks. Sorry but don't exactly remember the oil level that I set but belive it was 6 inches.

    TravelGuy



  19. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

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    Imagine all the mishaps that those would prevent. :D
  20. Kommando

    Kommando Long timer

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    Add skid and real handguards. Sort the carbing and suspension. Throw on a Seat Concepts kit and a big plastic tank. Make your own windscreen. Add a wider aluminum plate to the top of the Suzuki tailrack. Make an aluminum heatshield over the muff and toss on some throw-over saddlebags, tank saddlebags, and a tankbag. You'll wind up with a dirtier and simpler bike than the KLR that doesn't mind rolling 70+MPH for 1000 miles down the slab in a day.