the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. Lil' Steve

    Lil' Steve PussyWagon™ Chauffer

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,068
    Location:
    NYC, AZ

    Yes, there should be a screen on both tubes. You can take it apart and clean it, but a wise man said not long ago...
    but if you do, Yamaha Raptor tap about $20, that's what I use.

    The Yamaha tap bolts right on and isnt vacuum operated, you can turn it to off unlike the stock Suzuki tap.
  2. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,237
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    Itasca, IL
    I'm using the stock lever(s).

    Thanks M.

    Not only do I have that small gap, I can't seem to get rid of it. The clutch travel is very short; that is, from unengaged to fullly engaged seems to happen very quickly. I have the clutch arm positioned properly (I think) and the cable is new.

    :confused
  3. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Dec 22, 2005
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    9,895
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    Trying to leave CT
    Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01 it comes with a gasket, so don't order one.:deal

    If you go that route, don't forget to plug the vacuum line back to the carb.
  4. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    Remove the tank from the bike. Dump it upside down. If you remove the stock petcock there is a filter on the petcock internally. Also, check the tiny little white plastic filter that sits in the metal fuel inlet tube going into the Carb. It's a bit hard to pry out ... go easy.
  5. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Why, so he can throw it out in good condition? :D

    I advocate getting rid of it and installing an inline filter.
  6. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,652
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    Fuel filter, partially removed.
    [​IMG]

    Stock petcock on the left. (Acerbis 5.3 on the right)
    [​IMG]
  7. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Nov 22, 2009
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    North central CT
    So...
    Does the Yamaha tap have a reserve?

    Thanks for the replies guys!
  8. shu

    shu ...

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,083
    Location:
    Colorado
    I would go out for a long ride and watch that LED as you ride along. As long as it's green about half the time I wouldn't worry about it. Mine fluctuates back and forth from green to orange constantly (I forget what voltages those are supposed to indicate). It generally does not stay constant for more than 15 or 20 seconds, no matter low beam/high beam, electric vest/no vest, etc.

    I watched it until it drove me crazy trying to figure it out, now I pretty much ignore it and try to watch the road, instead! :lol3

    ..........shu
  9. Tex76

    Tex76 Motersykle Advntyers

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2012
    Oddometer:
    883
    Location:
    Plano, Texas
    Looks like go/no go are your only options there lol.
  10. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

    Joined:
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    Passing ADV Stalkers in California
    I believe the shifting voltage reading is simply the Regulator/Rectifier doing it's job. It will react to load and RPM and battery condition. At higher RPM it may adjust to a lower voltage so as not to Cook the battery. Once a certain voltage level is reached at the battery, Reg/Rect will lower output. Add or subtract load, and all that changes.

    The thing to do would be to take a ride using elec. vest and grips at 100%, high beam. Make it a longer ride, then note changes over time as battery loses ground to the too big load.

    I run an HID headlight bulb to help mitigate the DR's measly charging output (this saves 20 Watts over stock H4 55 watt light). On very cold riding days, I switch off headlight to maintain a full charge at the Battery. At night I run my Elec. Jacket at about 75% and Grips on LOW. Not ideal but there it is. I've ridden 10 hours like this ... bike still started up fine. (I don't have a voltage LED monitor) In daytime running (10 hour days) with headlight OFF I can run all electrics at 100% and have NO loss in Battery voltage, no starting issues at all. YMMV, IMHO. :norton
  11. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    Center of the DR650 universe
    Nope, it doesn't work that way. The voltage regulator is a very simple shunt device. When the voltage goes above a certain threshold the excess current is bled off to ground. There is no sensing of load or RPM.

    It works very much like a spillway on a dam. The water can only get so high then pours over the edge.
  12. The Breeze

    The Breeze Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    220
    Location:
    Utah
    I'm sure most of you know this....but for those that don't........:deal

    My DR currently has a little over 21k miles on it. Seems like for the past 6 months or so, the vibration has become terrible. I have carpal tunnel syndrome...so my wrists are very sensitive to vibration.

    In any event, I tried to figure out what caused the vibes to get so bad on my bike. I rebuilt the carb, re-torqued all of the motor mount bolts (some were a little loose), double checked the chain alignment, put on new rubber and balanced the tires (front and rear). All of which improved the situation...but the bike was still vibey.

    Then, for general maintenance purposes, I decided it was time to clean/re-grease all of the bearings. When I took off the rear wheel......the cush drive and all of the cush drive rubber inserts fell out onto the ground:eek1

    So, after finishing up the bearing job, I INSTALLED NEW CUSH DRIVE RUBBER INSERTS. The improvement was incredible!!!:clap:clap:clap Major improvement/reduction in vibration:wink:

    Long story short if you're noticing more vibration than normal.....the cush drive rubbers may need replacement:deal:deal
  13. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Yes
  14. UberKul

    UberKul UberNoob

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    116
    Location:
    Wilseyville, CA
    Thanks for the reminder. Does anyone know if there is a tolerance for the cush rubbers? Mine do fall out on their own during wheel changes but not sloppy loose.
    This is where I get slammed for not using search.
  15. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    If everyone used search, my post count would be about 17. :D

    15k has been mentioned before. Mine were hard as cement by 15k miles. I have the third set ready to go in next time the wheel is off, I'm at 45,xxx. Some of mine fall out when I remove the wheel too.
  16. Foot dragger

    Foot dragger singletracker

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    Dec 27, 2006
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    chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
    Thanks for the reminder,mine are due at 27,000 miles.If There is any play at all when you grab the sprocket and try to move it back and forth in the hub then they're shot
  17. acesandeights

    acesandeights Asperger

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    Jul 2, 2008
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    So. Oregon
    Think it's more related to miles or time? How many years before you had 15k miles?
  18. Motodeficient

    Motodeficient Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    449
    Location:
    Maine
    Would love to get a shorty brake lever to go with my MSR pro-raptor clutch perch and shorty lever, sounds like the Warp 9 shorty brake lever is a ways off though.

    Does the Warp9 brake lever Procycle currently sells replace the stock upper perch clamp? Thats what it looks like from the picture on the website... If so that would be perfect for me since I don't use the mirror mount on the stock upper brake perch clamp.
  19. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    That's possible. I installed the 2nd set (that's in there now) Sept 2011, at 26,600 and they're very hard too. It took me six years :shog to get to 15k (2010), I've been making up for lost time over the last three years. :D :freaky
  20. dentedvw

    dentedvw Where did I put that

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,175
    Location:
    ☼SLC-ish☼
    Yesterday I bought another rider's (maybe an ADV rider?) DR project. It was located at Edge Motorsports in Draper, UT. It was a bit spendy, but it had all the bits I was looking for, and I don't have to go and add them. It rides nice, and once the electrical system was properly buggered with by the shop, it even started, had a horn, and brake lights.
    One thing I wouldn't have done though is the Ti street bike exhaust. Huyabusa, or something like that. Here is the problem, it's loose. Real loose. So loose that some of the exhaust comes out the front of the can, but most out the back.
    Does anyone know how these are supposed to be properly installed? Is it possible the pipe hasn't been flanged properly, or is there a plate that might be missing? Some kind of gasket?

    And since I don't know anything about this exhaust, can it be repacked? It's a bit loud, but perhaps that's a function of some of the exhaust exiting the front of the can.

    Since this is my first DR650, and it's used, what should I be checking for? It's only got a bit under 2k miles, and it's a 2008.