the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    Yes.
    0.020" (0.51mm).
    On the KTM, it would be 0.010" (0.25mm). The '96 & up DR650 might tolerate a little more because the emulsion tube is nickel plated. That advantage would again mostly be negated by the use of a stainless steel or titanium needle.
    Regards,

    Derek
  2. joefromsf

    joefromsf Dark Happens

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    Don't think that is the cause of your flat spot. It usually attaches to a 12" hose that routed back just inside the right frame and ends before the battery. It vents to atmosphere.

  3. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Thanks for the quick response. I will embark on a hose safari.
  4. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    Thanks for some slide guide measurement #s above

    At this point I have zero interest in going back to a slide with only 1 hole and no shims on the needle. I've ridden a bike in that stock form and i'm happy with the way my BST carb runs compared to that.

    If i have ever so slightly more carb wear then so be it, it's a wear item. Life too short to worry or care that my slide guide wears .0025" more per 1k now as you say.

    I'm sure Suzuki wanted max life not max performance from the carb, so I take that into acct. Those who want more, use DJ kits & even more pumper carbs and even more big bore engines.

    I look at it like a rear tire. Sure I could take it nice an easy and it would last longer or I could go out and push it and have some fun.

    I've got almost 10k on my drilled and shimmed carb with no bog now and running great. If in another 10-15K it starts going down hill, I'll buy some new parts from you and call it a day.

    Heck dude as a parts dealer you want people to wear out their stuff right? :evil


  5. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    :beer
  6. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    :nod

    8gv: also check both ends of that small brass tube, it looks bent and should be sealed at both ends. Mine is straight.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  7. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    This carb tutorial seems to be for my carb as fitted to a KTM.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184

    There is a float weight referenced and shown in this picture:

    [​IMG]

    I don't seem to have one so...

    Is it also used on the DR or is it only on the KTM?
    My DR is a 2008 model.
    If needed, does anyone know where I might be able to source one?

    Also, not to start this up again but my slide has ONE HOLE next to where the needle goes. It looks to be about 3/32". Is that stock? For the "drill another hole" advocates, would I duplicate that hole in the same diameter on the opposite side of the needle hole?
  8. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    There are differences between the two BST applications. I think this is the most confusing. Our float needle is hidden in here.

    [​IMG]
  9. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    Exactly! :thumb
    I don't know if we can talk to Vendors here about stuff ... but hey Derek ... what would it cost for you to do a "reasonable" re-build of the BST if someone were to mail you one?

    Honestly, I think A LOT of guys here would take you up on this. In fact, my old Carb is sitting in my DR bin collecting dust. I'd love to have a newly rebuilt back up ready to go.

    Re-building worn DR Carbs might be a decent little sideline. Once you get some good testimonials here .... I have a feeling you'd be very busy.
    :freaky
  10. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Thanks,

    That looks like mine so I'll press on...

    I drilled out the cap and found my idle screw to be only a half turn out.

    Anyone want to suggest a good starting point? My extended screw won't be here for a few days and I'd like to reassemble tonight.

    On my KLR250, the procedure I used was to turn the screw in until the rpms fell, then while counting the turns, screw out until the rpms fell again. Then I split the difference. Does that make sense for the DR with stock everything?
  11. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    Little different on the DR. You will have a HARD TIME adjusting the stock fuel screw when bike is running. I would set it to ONE TURN OUT to start. This may help with performance, maybe not.

    When bike is running the basic method is similar to your KLR ...
    1. fully warm motor
    2. set idle to low setting
    3. turn iN screw until motor begins to stumble
    4. back OUT about 1/2 turn from there.
    5. Re-set idle to about 1400 RPM

    (if you were to continue to back out screw ... it would simply fall out. RPM
    would not drop much. Going IN is leaner, going OUT is richer.)
  12. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Great, thanks!
    I have no way to measure my RPM's. I have an old Tach/Dwell meter from working on my Camaro in 1976 but I haven't figured out how to use it on the bike. :D
  13. Andyinhilo

    Andyinhilo Long timer

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    If you wanna adjust while running a small flat blade hex bit will work. 1400 rpms is just about where it sounds like it is idling too fast.
  14. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    Hi Jeff, in the carb "discussion" do you miss my questions? :ear

    I have your ProCycle jet kit in both my DR's and am quite happy with the improvement.
    Thanks for putting together a nice kit.
  15. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    My dyno testing didn't show much of any detectable difference between the Hi-Flow header and the PowerBomb. The PowerBomb header is a higher quality piece and a better fit because it was designed in-house at FMF. The Hi-Flow header was originally a copy of the old Keintech oversize header. I'm running the PowerBomb on 3 of my DRs.

    There's one thing that's key to getting the full benefit from either header. You should use a muffler that does not have the necked down restriction of the muffler gasket. That means either a FMF Q4, PowerCore 4 or the Keintech mid-pipe that is a slip fit on the large diameter headpipe. Other brands of muffler are necked down to fit in the stock muffler gasket. This restriction kills the benefit of the larger header and negates some of the advantage of a free flowing muffler.

    The ProCycle web site does not have a repository of dyno chart images.
  16. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    In my efforts to improve my carb I noticed this white connector under the seat. It is not plugged in to anyhthing and I can't find it's mate. Any ideas on what it could be for?


    [​IMG]
  17. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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  18. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    The NZ/AU spec emulsion tube is brass.
  19. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

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    No eakins, that was not directed at you. I find your posts to be quite informative and level-headed. That comment was directed at other inmates that choose to pop in, fire off a few salvos and then bail. :bluduh

    I think the point Derek may be trying to make, thru copious detail, is that you can have your carb perform better than stock, help the engine make more power and at the same time not subject it to accelerated wear. It's painfully obvious that the open air box, DJ kit, drilled slide and GSXR muffler do wonders for the bike but at what cost? Accelerated wear. For some of you (as eakins pointed out), that's the "cost of doing business" and are OK with that. I have no issue with that either and if the parts you purchase, to replace worn ones, keep those parts available, for when I need them, fantastic. My carb, before rebuild, was pretty much worn out. The motor still seemed to run just fine. But, to me, it could be made to operate more efficiently and at a lower cost per mile. That's got my name written all over it.

    There are a multitude of combinations that will work here, obviously. Is one 'better' than another? That's subjective. This subject is hard enough to understand and with the various combinations, anyone trying to figure this out, by reading the thread, will get lost very quickly (I have a basic grasp and get lost quickly). It's too bad we couldn't consolidate information someplace. The problem is lack of concrete information; I'm sure everyone would be willing to share the info but without a baseline, or dyno run, it's not going to be the database it could be.

    We just need to agree to disagree and let it go at that. :1drink
  20. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

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    I'm pretty sure I have the same connector, in the same location. You should be OK.

    One thing I do notice is that your secondary carb breather (black barrel shaped object to the left of the air box snorkel) appears to have lost, or ingested, the foam filter. I would highly suggest you rectify that immediately. You can easily replace the foam or get one from Pro Cycle:

    [​IMG]