the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2009
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    2,708
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    CT exile now in NH
    I'm impressed by the high mileage DR owners have achieved. The comments about lubing the swing arm, steering head and wheel bearings has me wondering:

    Is there a specific grease for each of these? What do you use?

    I have a can of waterproof wheel bearing grease that I use for my boat trailer bearings. Are there any attributes lacking in that?
  2. Lawnchair

    Lawnchair Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2012
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    38
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    Pleasure Point Baby Yeah!
    Thanks for the many informative replies! I aired the front down to 24 psi. and hope as it gets more wear and broke-in it will provide some better stability. I checked the rear pre-load and the adj. collars are 2/3rds the way down the range (compressing the spring) The fork tubes are all the way up in the clamps. The bead is seated and uniform around the rim. I ride as far forward as my Wolfman allows. I have learned that a death grip is the grip of death. I hope to get a few miles out of the 606 it before I give up on it but the suggestions are helpful. I don't plan to use my DR as a road bike (I have an old one of those) but I was really freaked out with the change to full knobs, and I was unsure if there was another issue that came about with the bike from the change. I am a O.F.F. , but Speed has never really provided a sense of FEAR as these knobs at 60 on the freeway. Why I can remember a time when......:snore:snore:snore
  3. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    perfect. use that.
  4. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    The TR8 is a great front dual-sport tire.
  5. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Sep 30, 2009
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    My swing arm bearings were ok when I checked and greased them. My desk puter died so I can't look up when that happened; somewhere around 30k miles IIRC
    My steering head bearings needed to be greased before I got to them, and should be done before 20K (again, I can't look at my records). I had seen this posted before and those posts were correct; Zuki didn't waste any money on greasing the steering head.
    The stock single seal wheel bearings have a pretty good reputation for long life. I replaced mine because I spend too much time on the internet and had seen them mentioned a few times (looks like 20,800 miles, on the box in the drawer). :deal All four were in good condition when removed. I replaced the stockers with an aftermarket brand with double seals. Then I read on the internet that the ones I used were 'of questionable quality'. :puke1 So many thousands of miles later (looks like 8k, another old box in the drawer), I decided to go back to the OEM bearings, this time double sealing them, using seals off of the old bearings; like this:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17769542&postcount=81

    Every time you have a wheel off, stick a finger in the bearings and spin them, feeling for notchiness. If there's ANY roughness, replace them as soon as possible.

    Idealistically, yes. But NASA doesn't read this thread.
    My newest favorite is a marine grease, I think from Pep Boys. :shog It's soft and gushy, easy to knead into the bearing rollers; unlike some of the stiff wheel bearing stuff with the consistency of roofing tar. :huh

    If you're happy with it for the boat trailer, and since it's waterproof, sounds good to me. :uhoh
  6. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    That's a little unnerving having that thing touch yer junk, izznit? :eek1

    Remember this: it's a dirt bike with knobbies, it's supposed to wiggle like a girl. You remember those right? :gerg :toney
  7. Kommando

    Kommando Long timer

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    Maybe his "Wolfman" IS his junk. One of my friends used to call his "Little Elvis".

    Something touching the Wolfman is really only a problem if he's not into that kind of thing. He might be shy though. Who knows?

    :evil
  8. Kommando

    Kommando Long timer

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    There are quite a few tires that are only liked as rears, but not fronts...

    D606- Many don't like the front in gravel, sand, or mud.

    K270- Many don't like the front while leaned on pavement.

    K760- Many don't like the front on any surface.

    K761- Front wears funny.
  9. BadDogMax

    BadDogMax Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2010
    Oddometer:
    204
    Location:
    So Cal
    I'll add my experience:

    IRC GP-110- Quietest on pavement, not too good in sand at all, a little squirrely on pavement

    Shinko 244- Offroad grip not as impressive as it looks, noisy as a knobby onroad, not confidence inspiring in corners

    Michelin T63- Noisy onroad, good grip and feel onroad and off, wears in 3k miles but is cheap so it's my first choice

    Haven't tried 606 or Kendas yet
  10. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    My experience with the Shinko 244 was it was fine for the price. Cheap as heck. Mounted it in Cresent City California when the volcanic rock in Ore and Wash ate the T63 up.
    The Shinko lasted well and did a good job. The problem was removing it. It was a real bitch to break the bead. I ride with a 3 time ISDE rider and he couldn't even break that bead. I think if I had a puncture out in the woods I'd be riding it flat.


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  11. yooperbikemike

    yooperbikemike high, wide and handsome

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    Apr 15, 2003
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    I just mounted 244's to my DR. The rear was a bit stiff (Not nearly as stiff as the OEM BT20 rear on my ST1300, tho) and didn't really loosen up much with the old leave it out in the sun for hours trick. The front, by comparison, fairly fell on the rim.
  12. 3DChief

    3DChief "Moto therapist"

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2010
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    412
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    Montana
    The trick for any tire out on the trail is to use the kickstand of another bike to break the bead, I've never had that technique fail. The trick is the leverage and letting the weight of the bike do all the work. Even my wife's little XT225 has more than enough weight to break the toughest bead.

    If you are on your own, you just have to get creative, but I have used logs and sticks and rocks to good effect!

    :beer
    Tim
  13. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    Kick stand, oh I know that trick and. Bruce know every trick in the book as ISDE riders are timed on it. Try my H3 to break it. Lol
    Seriously. Maybe it was a flukey tire.


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  14. 3DChief

    3DChief "Moto therapist"

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    Make sure you clean the rim really well next time you have the tire off. I know that my experience isn't normal because I go through tires pretty fast. When I got my bike, the tire had been on there for quite some time (years!) and the rim had never been cleaned, it took about 10 minutes of working around the tire using my Vulcan 1500 kickstand and tire irons to break it loose. There was some crusty dried funk around the bead of the tire and on the rim, effectively welding it on there! Since wire-wheeling the inner rim and using proper tire lube when changing/repairing, all changes since then have been easy.

    :beer
    Tim
  15. bmarks

    bmarks Too many BMWs

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    26
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    Just joining in here. Just picked up a low mileage, barely used (9300 miles) 2003 DR650 that's been somewhat modified with Racetech suspension bits and FMF Q4 exhaust. Seems to run ok except at higher RPMs (not sure which because there's no tach) - I wonder if the jetting on the carb is off.

    Haven't pulled the seat to see about intake mods yet but will do soon.

    Sure is different than the K1300 :rofl :evil
  16. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    This is something DR riders should pay attention to! If an ISDE guy can't break the bead ... I doubt anyone can. I've posted about this sort of problem before ... but I would not have guessed that the Shinko 244 would be a tough tire to break down. But I'll take Docking Pilot's word on this!

    I had tremendous problems breaking the bead on my Avon Distanzias ... in one case, rode it FLAT 50 miles on pavement and it NEVER broke the bead. Took Two guys and a proper bead breaker to do it. :eek1 What a PITA. (We used a giant C clamp that a buddy packs)

    Some sort of decent Bead Breaker should be carried ... and one that's been tested, so you know you can do it Solo. With flat tires, friends around are always appreciated. :freaky ... and that is why I rode 50 miles on my flat, destroyed the tube (Valve stem pulled out). But with friends drinking beer and BS'ing ... the whole episode became a Party. :freaky
  17. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

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    Mar 31, 2004
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    My experience as well. I hardly ever have to use a bead breaker.
  18. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    You've obviously not tried to break down a tubeless Avon Distanzia! It laughed at the side stand trick. Not even close! Even with the TIRE crushed FLAT by the side stand, ... the BEAD would NOT budge. You need several contact points, little wood blocks and a few other tricks. I have an easier time breaking the bead on my 1050 Tiger rear ... a 180 X 17 tire than I do on the Distanzia on the DR's rim.

    The side stand trick works perfectly on most any dirt bike or 50/50 tire. Generally much softer side wall. But ... apparently the Shinko 244 is stiffer than many of us thought! :eek1
  19. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    Lol !
    Well I'm hoping it was just that particular tire.


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  20. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
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    7,168
    Location:
    Kiwiland
    I changed my 244 3 times (punctures), popping the bead by walking around it with jandals on. The 4th time however...
    Copious WD40, centre stand of the DR, 90kg standing on the footpeg, pushing up on the rafter, didn't break the bead.

    Now several years later, that same tyre is back on the DR and has to come off this weekend.
    Looking forward to it...