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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
But you do turn it on when starting the engine, correct?
Back when my bike had the TM 40 my mileage dropped down into the low 30's. I replaced the float valve and my mileage jumped back up to 40, which for my riding style is good on the DR.
Yeah, some things up there.. most BSTs get around 50 stock. You've got some issue. Motolab is your man, as well as others. I don't know anything about the BST carb..
Will do. That seems like it could be the issue.. How do you go about getting the needle out? Or more accurately, how do you get the float out? It seems the float is on a pin that goes into the carb body. The only thing I can see is tapping the pin out..
Do I detect humor?? You're alright man haha..
Yes I sure do!
Hmmmm, yet another vote for the float needle/seat. It does seem consistent with my issue in terms of flooding and all that. My mpg went up going to a TM40 from a jetted bst, but I get the impression the bst was jetted a little rich (bought the bike with jetted bst). I will definitely check the float needle out..
Motolab and procycle, do either of you carry a float needle and seat for the tm40? I might just replace them both and give the carb another good cleaning.
The pin must be driven out with an appropriately-sized drift, held coaxially to the pin. Do not use a punch, as it will flare the end of the pin, making it harder to remove and possibly scoring the bore on the way out. It's best to do this with the carb on its side and with the far post backed up (with a socket or other object of the right height that has a hole in the middle for the pin to pass into). Not backing up carries the risk of breaking off a post.
It would take me two days to get the needle & seat assembly. Typically nothing goes wrong with the seat. You should be able to clean the seat and install a new o-ring and needle. Unfortunately I don't know what needle it takes and whether I can provide it separately. If you want to post a picture and take some measurements, I can try to match it up.
was produce only and just for the purpose as protection of the dirt from the chain / to does not contaminate civil clothes a girl.
I just bought a 2007 dr650 with 3,700 miles. I bought it from the original owner, it runs great and everything works.
My question is about the NSU screws...
The previous owner never checked them. I just changed the oil, and it was clean and free of metal bits, screws, parts, etc.
What is the actual NSU screw failure rate?? I cant find a clear answer to this.
Should I replace and Loctite the bolts as a precaution, or are most newer bikes OK?
Does the neutral light always/usually stop working before a failure, or does it happen with no warning too? (my light works fine)
The light might not always be a good way to tell. If only one screw was to loosen, you might never know.
My estimate would be 80% get loose. you don't have to replace the screws. Just loctite them. easy to do without draining the oil, I just laid the bike on a couple old car tires and went to work. There's several pictorial tutorials that will guide you.
The issue isn't really a 'failure rate' type of thing. The problem is that the screws are tightened against the plastic body of the NSU. Engine heat and heat cycling causes the plastic to soften slightly and collapse a little under the pressure of the screws. Once the plastic has deformed the screws are no longer tight. Most riders find 'finger tight' screws. A few riders find a screw is missing or one comes out during an oil change. Mine were barely finger tight when the bike had 300 miles on it.
The DR 'kit' I recently acquired had its clutch and other odds and ends nearby destroyed. The missing NSU screw was the likely culprit.
Short answer: Secure them.
Full gammit of answers. I've secured NSU's on 6 DR's and have another in the hopper. It's ranged from secure, to finger tight to "one was on my son-in-laws magnetic drain plug when we removed it".....
Might has well just get it done.
Yeah, if you're thinking about it, do it or worry. I couldn't enjoy the bike till it was done.
Mine were so tight I had to use an impact driver to get them out. Go figure
Totally down with that Boz.
Would you use blue or red? I can't imagine that I'd ever want to take those bolts out again so I'd think red, but wanted to ask.
Saturday morning I'll be picking up my new '13 DR650 and one of the things I'd like to start working on now is locating a spare set of wheels. When i had my DRZ I kept one set of agressive offroad wheels/tires and one set of "50/50" wheels and tires for normal riding. That let me put the miles on my "street" tires and not wear out my dirt tires on my long daily commute (75-80 miles a day)
So, I've read that the DR350 wheels will fit, any particular years?
What other options are there (if any) that are fairly simple plug and play wheels and rotors?
agree w/ Steve. I used blue, but I don't own red.
Red scares me.