the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    Plasti Dip them. It peels off if you don't like or want to change color.
    Just a thought.


    Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk Pro
  2. Gebogen

    Gebogen Been here awhile

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    when my KX went napping and the panels were hammered I'd weld the cracks and sticker them. Use a soldering iron to weld the cracks, some 1000 grit sand paper and new graphics kit and the panels looked, well, not 5 years old anyway. I can't find anything that looks like it fits a DR so I will probably just get white FX number plate vinyl. Post a pick if you got something alternative on your own ride. I guess what I'm really asking is if anyone has found a different bike graphic kit that can be made to fit the DR. I just get bored with the white DR that looks like every other old guys DR. In really bad taste, I put the stock purple and yellow seat back on mine...
  3. FlowBee

    FlowBee Just me.

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    Was any sort of thread locker used on the bolt? Safari strongly recommends against it, given that only polypropylene is holding the brass inserts in place. I used never seize, but i had to safety wire the heads to the crossbar, as the first set fell out from vibration.

    If you used a locking compound then try repeated soakings with acetone and/ or penetrating oil, then tapping on the remaining fastener between soakings.

    Yes, it is kind of a poor design on Safari's part. I hate threaded inserts.

    Good luck.
  4. Kommando

    Kommando Long timer

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    Plasti-Dip spray is available at Home Depot and a few other home improvement places. You could probably also get them to look better with some Krylon paint for plastic.
  5. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Healthy cable end on my '04.

    [​IMG]

    Internet photo of a failing cable.

    [​IMG]
  6. Kommando

    Kommando Long timer

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    That bike is different from ours, so I don't know what those parts pictured are, but flanged hex-heads are used on our DRs to hold the oil-cooler lines in place, while socket-head capscrews are used to hold most of our exhaust piping in place.

    Make sure that the lengths and threads of the screws are correct for where you're using them.
  7. FlowBee

    FlowBee Just me.

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    Wally World too.
  8. thinairflyer

    thinairflyer Been here awhile

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    Westcliffe, CO
    Thanks for adding the pics ER70S-2. My DR is okay but my KLX250S clutch cable frayed and caused the condition I mentioned earlier, clutch wouldn't release and couldn't adjust it properly. Your pics tell the story well.
  9. jjxlrider

    jjxlrider Part time adult

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    Does the clutch only not disengage when in first like your saying ? Can you have it in third or fourth, pull in the clutch and have it work fine?

    Otherwise did you put everything back together the same way it came out? Which could have been wrong in the first place?

    If that disc with the ring is not in the right order, the clutch will not work.


    .
  10. creativeee

    creativeee ben

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    [​IMG]

    There's mine

    Sent from my phone
  11. uconn1150

    uconn1150 Adventurer

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    Be sure to look at the proper clutch diagram. The pre96 appears to be opposite compared to the 96+ according to the Zenseeker site. The wave ring goes closest to the bike compared to the 96+. Maybe the PO followed the wrong sequence. :norton
  12. creativeee

    creativeee ben

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    The service manual - the file is called "DR650 Service Manual(early)" - although I am not sure how to check and see what year it is for specifically. I am almost positive that I put everything back in correctly, but who knows.

    I just took it out for a spin - the bike does the same thing in second and third gear. Main thing happening is that the clutch is not fully disengaging. If I adjust the cable to try and make it disengage, it still catches on the gears and will bog down - the only difference with adjusting it is that the clutch is engaged all the time. I don't know if I am making any sense but basically when I try to make the clutch engage more by adjusting the cable, the bike just revs and doesn't move much at all. :cry


    I am starting to think that maybe the pinion and rack have something wrong with them. Is this possible/common? I need to find a local motorcycle man who can take a look at my bike.
  13. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Your cable looks good, thanks for the photo.

    It could be the pinion and rack adjustment, we have the same issues with the '96-current DRs when we remove the clutch cover to Loctite/safety wire the NSU screws.

    Edit to add: It looks like your arm pulls forward, ours pulls to the rear. Be sure to allow for that when reading the info in the following link. Here's a link showing more details. I hope this doesn't confuse the situation.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18296607&postcount=32
  14. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    This still bothers me. What did you find out? Did the parts go together properly?
  15. creativeee

    creativeee ben

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    After reading what I should have read before I started working on the bike I figured out why this was. The first clutch plate (outermost) is smaller than the rest of them. I was comparing the first clutch plate in the old set to the non-first clutch plate in the new set. Once I found the first clutch plate in the new set, everything made sense. :1drink
  16. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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  17. 1989THEARK

    1989THEARK Been here awhile

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    But have you guys heard about the save the patch campaign?
    I know this may not exactly affect us ADV guys.

    unless you have a harley logo on your beamer
    or wear chaps while your tearing up the trails on your ktm.

    but i think we ADV guys should know. Because the next time
    you and a group of buddies want to ride together to hit the trails
    You might not have that liberty anymore

    Here is a little bit that i found on whats going on Please add anything you guys might know or what we could do to help the cause:ear

    http://sacramento.cbslocal.com/2014...sacramento-capitol-to-rally-for-biker-rights/

    http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/321/1...-Bikers-Rally-at-California-Capitol.aspx:deal
  18. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    Here is where I have my Vapour RPM sensor wire connected to the coil.

    [​IMG]

    The connector you see in the photo is coming from the coil and it is on the right hand side of the frame just behind the fuel tank grommet. Just follow those two black braided wires back from the coil to this connector. The wires on the other side of the connector (you can see a white and blue wire in the photo and the other one is Black and White) go back to the CDI unit which sends the ignition signal (or electrical pulse) to the coil and thus is a very accurate measurement of RPM. The sensor wire is the red one and it is soldered into the metal plug (spade) alongside the coil wire inside the plastic housing. Works a treat.:clap
  19. Brutalguyracing

    Brutalguyracing Long timer

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    i myself am an sanitary engineer...local #1 ny
    thats perfect will do this as soon as i get my new enrichment circuit cable....
    wooot thanks...

    do you know whats a good shift point settings....i think i am at 4200 and 5200 or something like that
    and temp warnings for engine? i have it at 320* warning and 380* danger....
    mine seems to run in this cold temp (30*) at around 250* range
  20. thinairflyer

    thinairflyer Been here awhile

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    creativeee I see you posted a pic of the engine end of your clutch cable and it is good. The end that usually gives the trouble is the clutch lever end on the handlebar, seldom the end you took a pic of. Did you also check that upper end? Look carefully at that end if you haven't already done so. L D