Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Sent from my phone
Be sure to look at the proper clutch diagram. The pre96 appears to be opposite compared to the 96+ according to the Zenseeker site. The wave ring goes closest to the bike compared to the 96+. Maybe the PO followed the wrong sequence.
The service manual - the file is called "DR650 Service Manual(early)" - although I am not sure how to check and see what year it is for specifically. I am almost positive that I put everything back in correctly, but who knows.
I just took it out for a spin - the bike does the same thing in second and third gear. Main thing happening is that the clutch is not fully disengaging. If I adjust the cable to try and make it disengage, it still catches on the gears and will bog down - the only difference with adjusting it is that the clutch is engaged all the time. I don't know if I am making any sense but basically when I try to make the clutch engage more by adjusting the cable, the bike just revs and doesn't move much at all.
I am starting to think that maybe the pinion and rack have something wrong with them. Is this possible/common? I need to find a local motorcycle man who can take a look at my bike.
Your cable looks good, thanks for the photo.
It could be the pinion and rack adjustment, we have the same issues with the '96-current DRs when we remove the clutch cover to Loctite/safety wire the NSU screws.
Edit to add: It looks like your arm pulls forward, ours pulls to the rear. Be sure to allow for that when reading the info in the following link. Here's a link showing more details. I hope this doesn't confuse the situation.
This still bothers me. What did you find out? Did the parts go together properly?
After reading what I should have read before I started working on the bike I figured out why this was. The first clutch plate (outermost) is smaller than the rest of them. I was comparing the first clutch plate in the old set to the non-first clutch plate in the new set. Once I found the first clutch plate in the new set, everything made sense.
But have you guys heard about the save the patch campaign?
I know this may not exactly affect us ADV guys.
unless you have a harley logo on your beamer
or wear chaps while your tearing up the trails on your ktm.
but i think we ADV guys should know. Because the next time
you and a group of buddies want to ride together to hit the trails
You might not have that liberty anymore
Here is a little bit that i found on whats going on Please add anything you guys might know or what we could do to help the cause
Here is where I have my Vapour RPM sensor wire connected to the coil.
The connector you see in the photo is coming from the coil and it is on the right hand side of the frame just behind the fuel tank grommet. Just follow those two black braided wires back from the coil to this connector. The wires on the other side of the connector (you can see a white and blue wire in the photo and the other one is Black and White) go back to the CDI unit which sends the ignition signal (or electrical pulse) to the coil and thus is a very accurate measurement of RPM. The sensor wire is the red one and it is soldered into the metal plug (spade) alongside the coil wire inside the plastic housing. Works a treat.
i myself am an sanitary engineer...local #1 ny
thats perfect will do this as soon as i get my new enrichment circuit cable....
do you know whats a good shift point settings....i think i am at 4200 and 5200 or something like that
and temp warnings for engine? i have it at 320* warning and 380* danger....
mine seems to run in this cold temp (30*) at around 250* range
creativeee I see you posted a pic of the engine end of your clutch cable and it is good. The end that usually gives the trouble is the clutch lever end on the handlebar, seldom the end you took a pic of. Did you also check that upper end? Look carefully at that end if you haven't already done so. L D
As for temp guage, I used a round file and opened out the sensor ring that would normally go on the spark plug and installed it on to the upper oil banjo on the right side of the engine cam cover. The ring takes the place of the copper washer that was there previously and measures the oil temp which I believe is a more realistic measurement. I have my temp warning light set at 120 degrees Celcius (248 degrees F) and danger light at 150 degrees C (302 degrees F) - The engine can probably tolerate higher than that but that is what I have set based on the
temperatures that I was getting when I first got the vapor.
For normal running on a 30+ degree C (86 degrees F) day (North Queensland Australia), the temp sits anywhere between 78 to 88 degrees C (191 degrees F) and with some idling at traffic lights etc will rise to around 98 to 100 degrees C. (212 degrees F) A couple of hoccasions I have had it to 120 degrees C (248 degrees F) but only after some excessive time idling on a very hot day. I have thought about rigging up a 12 volt computer fan to the back of the oil cooler that I can switch on manually when idling excessively or plugging around in the bush. I have never had it anywhere near the danger point.
In case you didn't notice, we work in degrees Celcius here in OZ but I have made it easy for you by converting)
As for max revs, I have mine set at 7500 rpm but I can't be sure where the DR redlines exactly. I seldom rev it out too much tending to use its torque and bottom end which is even better now with the FCR Mx Carby.
Dam my motor is running at 250-270 on a 30*f day
And i just put a new oil cooler on too
How is the fueling? Lean engines run hot.
I wouldnt make too big a deal over it. My bike stays around there cold days or hot
The difference in observed operating temperature may be due to the location of the sensor. The OP has his sensor mounted under the old pipe banjo nut so he is measuring oil temperature. If you have your sensor mounted under the spark plug as recommended by a TrailTech you are measuring cylinder head temperature. Temperture readings from those two locations could be significantly different.
Ok , so normally my bike starts right up after running for a min. It's cool out and usually I choke the bike but I didnt this time. It fired up cold start hadnt been run today at all , went to get coffee a mile down the road , got back on the bike and went to start and it wouldnt fire right away and I let up and then I hit the magic button again and I think it backfired. Fairly loud too then turned over. First time it has done that. I just adjusted the valves a hundred miles ago ( correctly I think ) .
Could it be cause the motor was cold and I didnt choke it or ?
Great point. I missed that detail in my pre-coffee fog.
yes i have mine on the outboard plug...
should i change it to the banjo bolt?
which is better?
and does anyone know the danger points as in temp on these motors
id like to do it right the first time.....
also how would one tell if the bike is running lean?
check the plugs?......
i just put new plugs in when i put the new motor in the bike a few hundred miles ago?
i am also looking at ordering a new chain and some sprockets....
i think i am going with a 525 chain unless you guyz tell me differnet.
going with stock gearing at 15/42 but will order a 14 and a 16 tooth with the extra retainer for the 14t sprocket.....so i have to swap out if i should so choose......
found some decent steel jt sprockets on some other sites....for cheap $$
but unsure of a decent chain...
mind you i ride mostly as a commuter bike, but will be doing some fire service roads as well nothing crazy........
and also thoughts on the shinko 244 tires, as i think i am going to make them my replacements for my 705's