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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
All 4 loops I have in mind take us over 10k feet.
I'm jetted for 1,500.
My stock jetted BST40 ran clean all the way to 13+K feet. A friend's DRZ400 with a DJ kit for <1000 feet would not run up there. My DR350 with a flat side carb required re-jetting. I don't mean the DRZ and the DR350 ran poorly - they would not run enough to propel themselves.
rejetting at Imogene Pass
OTOH, the DR650 I rode in Ecuador ran fine at 14.5. Down on power yes but never missed a lick. CV carbs have some ability to compensate when running on the slide/needle but at the extremes (pilot circuit and main jet) don't will likely be too rich. This is one of the main reasons I run the BST. On several trips my bike has been ridden from just above sea level to almost 14K feet. Rejetting every 2 or 3 thousand sux.
Imogene is on the list. I have a DJ kit. I've got an extended mixture screw. I'll throw a couple extra jets in the tool kit.
If the BST does one thing well it is handle changes in elevation.
I had to look it up to find out funnily really is a word. Learned something new today!
And back to DRs, just got off the phone with Todd at Cogent Dynamics as I ordered my new Mojave shock. The back end will finally be as good as the DDC-kitted front!
Hey Thumpers! My wife and I are planning an 18 month trip of the Americas (all of them:) on our DR650s. We leave May 2018 and I want to get the bikes in as good as order as possible. Unfortunately, beyond oil changes, chain adjustments, valve adjustments and a few other things; I am out of my element. Anybody here live in the Santa Cruz, California area who could lend me their 'know-how'? I would be happy to drive to you and do the wrenching, I just don't know what to wrench ! Thank you!
-The picture was our return from a six week shake down trip on a portion of the Trans-America Trail (Florida to Tenessee to Oklahoma and back) two years ago
It's about performance. If the intended application fits with modest performance a non-interference motor can be used. If the need for more power requires higher compression ratios and higher valve lift all bets are off.
I'd put a shim under the needle you have with the clip you have, put stock main jet back in, open the air box back up, and see if the surge goes away.
At altitude you need all the air you can get, and opening the air box top up DOES help.
HC piston makes jetting a LOT less finicky, and is "free power" if you are willing to run premium at low elevation.
I run 1000 feet to 10,000 feet, 30 degrees F to 100 degrees F. Never touch jetting anymore. It always runs great.
Is there a new TAT?
Good luck on your other trip. End up on the east side of this America stop in for a beer and a place to do some service if needed.
I like the rear turn signal consolidation. Tips to do the same on my DR?
OR open up the side case...take it off, pull the wires through the grommet, plug the hole with silicone, throw the NSU in the can.
Most track days around here allow anything on the track (well almost). But to race you have to complete a lap in a specified time limit. Big track at Willow Springs....2 minutes for example.....or you can't have your race license.
When racing people gear for balls out top speed on the longest straight. You don't want to be hitting the rev limiter 500 yards down the long straight in top gear and nothing left. Also consider which gear you may use in the tightest corner, on most tracks I've been on you would never use first gear on a DR with 15/42....only time you would use first would be from a standing start.
That's my old 350. I did that by welding new mounting tabs inboard on the OEM luggage rack. I've done a similar mod on my 650 but it's a little wider.
I got a used one for $21 off fleabay...don't be in a hurry and it costs less.
Nice! Now get the buy back lowered and we can all get to naming the incoming child!
If it's a girl: Suzi
If it's a boy: Schmokel (of course)
Seems pretty reasonable price. There is no reason why they wouldn't be good. I get custom made lines at an aircraft place near me, many colors and endless specifications. If you have an aircraft supply near you check them out. I pay around $30 a line.
With 10" of travel you kinda need a loop.
I know nothing of the engines in those.
Hydraulic lifters gunked up a bit..??
One of them failed maybe..?
It's not unheard of in a harley.
Does it run adjustable push rods..?
Sometimes on start up, with a high lift cam you can get a tick for a couple of seconds if it needs to pump up,
if it stopped on the rise and drained a touch.
You didn't install a bigger cam you forgot about..
I replaced the lifters in my harley at 100,000
Like you say not a quick job.
I fixed it with a way bigger cam, head work, big bore, bigger injectors etc etc
If your gonna fix it, best fix it properly..
Especially with parts that are bigger..!!
Re the factory lowering procedure for DR650, there is a 2-stage process for the rear shock - first moving the lower bolt to a different hole, and then flipping a spacer at the bottom of the shock. I am wondering how much height is reduced by simply moving the bolt to the other hole, without flipping the spacer thing in the shock?
I was thinking I'd like to lower the bike less than the full 1 3/4" by doing part of the procedure in the rear and just slipping the forks in the triple clamps to drop the front and inch or so. Can anybody answer the question about the rear shock?