the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. Lil' Steve

    Lil' Steve PussyWagon™ Chauffer

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    Jeff from Procycle has done lots of dyno testing with various mods to the DR. Here's an air filter dyno run from his site...

    [​IMG]




    And here's a stock exhaust vs FMF pipe run...


    [​IMG]
  2. vnp514

    vnp514 Been here awhile

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    Ok,

    Since we've got the snow, ice, cold, etc. still going on here, I figured I'd check my NSU on my 2002 DR. Before I do, here is what I've learned doing some searching around:

    You can lay the bike on it's left side to do this procedure.

    The side cover bolts are different sizes-pay attention here.

    The bottom bolt is easy to get out, the upper bolt is a booger to get out. Might be able to use a box end wrench and attach a screw driver bit of the proper size to get to it.

    I plan on just taking mine out for piece of mind. The only thing I won't have is the green neutral light-right??

    Has anyone done any pics on this job from start to finish? Any other pointers before I start this task?

    Thanks

    Pete
  3. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    You don't have to lose any fuel mileage if the jetting is done properly.
  4. AWM

    AWM Beard Bros Racing

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    See what you can find here!:thumb

    http://dr650.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page
  5. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    When you lay the bike on the side, either put something under the frame near the shift lever or take it off. Otherwise it will bend as it contacts the floor.

    [​IMG]

    Use a piece of cardboard or similar and stick the screws in it using the layout of the clutch cover:

    [​IMG]

    I recommend taking off the foot peg and rear MC so you can swing the brake pedal out of the way. Otherwise you have to take the pin out of the pedal pivot which is a bit more complicated.

    [​IMG]


    If you can't access the upper NSU screw you can take the clutch off easily even if you don't have the special tool. Just put the bike in gear and block the rear wheel (I used a broom) when you take off the nut.

    The rest is straight forward, get back to us if you have any questions.

    Lukas
  6. miniroot

    miniroot running in: please pass

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    Neat! Both in the "good idea" sense and the "anally retentive" sense.

    ;)

    I usually just lay them out in order on the floor. Then, I usually forget and boot them across the floor. And then I usually spend fifteen minutes swearing.
  7. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    Yeah, I used to laugh at tips like that as well. Then I realized what I mess I am and that things tend to get in the way. I took that picture 3 weeks ago and the bike is still in pieces. Found out my clutch hub is shot so I'm still looking for a cheap used one.

    So more like 15 minutes of swearing and then a few hours trying to figure out what goes where. And in the end there are still a couple of screws left over... :D
  8. McB

    McB Joe 40 ouncer

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    I usually count those as 'weight reduction measures'.
  9. miniroot

    miniroot running in: please pass

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    Aye, that's the rub. My workshop was a no-go area for a month while I waited for parts to complete my DR200 rebuild. I had the engine laid out in "chronological order", anti-clockwise around the room, on all but six square feet of workbench.

    My father used to take photos as he tore an engine down. That was back in the days of real celluloid film, as well. With digital photography so cheap, I don't know why I didn't do the same.

    But that really is a good tip, with the cardboard.

    Are DR650 hubs that expensive? I spent months fannying around trying to avoid the cost of a new DR200 hub, possibly at the expense of the engine (see above) and certainly at the expense of my blood pressure. Turned out that a new hub was something stupid like NZ$50. I spent more money on replacement friction plates.
  10. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Use a piece of cardboard or similar and stick the screws in it using the layout of the clutch cover:

    [​IMG]

    A picture is worth a thousand words. I was going to try to describe this exact tip in words. Thanks you saved me from typing alot.

    I have done this exact same thing for years. I still have a piece of cardboard lying on my garage floor from when I last checked the NSU screws.

    BTW, just got my RaceTech .46 springs for the forks from Cogent. (NC Rick):clap
  11. vnp514

    vnp514 Been here awhile

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    Lukas,

    Thanks a bunch. Some great tips AND PICS!!

    Pete





  12. Watson

    Watson Been here awhile

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    I wonder if anyone has taken a piston-powered aircraft approach to managing fuel/air mixture. Mixture controlled by the pilot - proper adjustments estimated and made based on rpm drop and exhaust gas temp....if my memory serves me correctly...:dunno
  13. STARSKEY

    STARSKEY Wandering Soul

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    It would take a new breed of DR650 rider I think. A lot of us like this bike because it's simple and doesn't have too many guages and switches and lights and dials.

    Imagine doing all that watching and adjusting while bashing along down a dirt road. Too much thinking for my brain while riding. I'm lucky just to remember "bars up, tires down.....bars up, tires down.......bars up, tires down....."
  14. talbertnz

    talbertnz ..Clogs on da footpegs..

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    Glad to hear im not the only one with that problem....
  15. AndrewL

    AndrewL Been here awhile

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    EGT is only good measurement for relatively static rpm and load - that is not a MC environment unless droning down a highway. EGO is the go - but you won't see them in aircraft due to the amount of lead, even in the LL stuff.
    Some Bing aircraft carbs have adjustable needles, but if that particular setup were applied to a MC carb, it would be virtually unusable due to cable friction... but it can be done.
    Easiest and quite possibly cheaper (if you place value on your time) solution would be fuel injection with wide band EGO and closed loop operation at low loads. No altitude problems either if done right. For the keen, Megasquirt and Microsquirt controllers are capable of doing this. Big problem is finding the power to drive the electronics and fuel pump.

    Cheers
  16. Django Loco

    Django Loco Banned

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    I totally agree with you. Seems to me 'ol Dave was running in circles!:lol3 Dave needs a good Editor to kick his butt and get his articles in order. It's clear he should have held off before coming to conclusions that he later had to recant on. That is just stupid.

    Technical articles are very tough. I've done them. I always get help and I always do extensive testing before publishing results. Also, your testing regime has to be consistent and somewhat scientific.
    (hey it's motorcycles not Titan Rockets:lol3 ) But still, good data comes from long hours of testing and more testing and lots of changes.

    I have met Dave several times and have ridden with him (at bike intros). Nice guy. But I must admit he was out of his depth on this. He is not, far as I know, a dirt rider and does not have a dual sport background or, for that matter a mechanical background. My guess is he didn't have any help. I'll bet he'll do better next time.
  17. Django Loco

    Django Loco Banned

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    Those are very good MPG numbers! I would do a plug check to see it you might be running a hair too lean. A white plug is not good. Since you still have the air box open and with much leaner jetting, you could be too lean, which over time, could burn a valve or overheat the top of the piston. The FMF pipe changes almost nothing regards mixture. Air box mods DO affect mixture and lean out mixture considerably.

    Good luck!
  18. Django Loco

    Django Loco Banned

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    No step by step on NSU repair there. Very general stuff. The real deal is HERE, on this thread ....somewhere.

    Where? I have no idea! :lol3
  19. AWM

    AWM Beard Bros Racing

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    I know years ago someone made a adjustible main jet for an S&S carb for harleys.The main jet on those carbs are on the bottom,and it was a t-handle knob on the main.You could dial it in as you went,like an idle adjust.
    I had a 52 panhead with a spark advance,and you could almost get the same result by retard'n the spark.
    Or atleast i'd foul out the plugs if didn't have it set right when she warmed up.:lol3
  20. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    I don't think anybody posted step by step instructions on here either. Although I do remember a blurry pic that showed the NSU.

    Maybe these will help somebody anyway.

    1. Unbolt everything (also the oil line) from the clutch cover. Observe the tips I posted above and swing the pedal out of the way. To remove the clutch actuating arm, you might have remove the header (my FMF is oversize and in the way). Then the cover should come off and look like this. The red arrow points to the NSU which is hidden by the clutch and the red circle is a hole that you should block with a rag so nothing falls in there. I forgot and was lucky, although you can see it in the last picture of this post.

    [​IMG]


    From this angle you can see the NSU in the lower left corner:

    [​IMG]


    2. If you have access to a right angle screwdriver or similar you might get the upper screw out with it. Otherwise you will have to take off the clutch. Take all the bolts out that hold the pressure plate.

    [​IMG]


    3. Once you have removed them you can take off the pressure plate. You can now see the big nut. If you don't have a clutch removal tool, put the bike and gear and block the wheel so it can't turn. Bend the locking tab out of the way and take off the nut.

    [​IMG]


    4. After removing the nut you can take off the clutch basket. You now have perfect access to the NSU bolts:

    [​IMG]


    5. Either remove the NSU completely (you will have to cut off the cables inside the case so they still seal the opening) or loctite in the screws. I replaced them with stainless allen head bolts.

    [​IMG]


    6. Check your clutch plates for wear, the specs are in the manual. Then re-assemble in reverse order. Don't let a week pass or at least take some pictures, otherwise you WILL forget the order of washer, plates etc.:wink:


    Lukas