The Great Van Damn Thread

Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by a1fa, Mar 12, 2012.

  1. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    I'll put a rush order to get those fuckers... just need to know what distributor to get...
    #61
  2. STANIMAL

    STANIMAL SUPPORT THE SECOND

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    Mechanical dist and get rid of the points . Pertronix ?
    #62
  3. HillbillyNinja

    HillbillyNinja Long timer

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    I'm not sure how the L-Jet system could have fried yoru points. The distributor should be a mechanical with vacuum advance and the points opening and closing are controlled mechanicly by the distro. I used to eat condensers on my bus until i found a short between the condenser and the body of the distributor.

    Have you put a voltmeter on your ECU to ensure the thing isn't fried?

    Swapping to carbs usually requires yanking the gas tank and modifying it to eliminate the high pressure gas return lines.
    #63
  4. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    As posted on another forum:

    #64
  5. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    Unfortunate accidents happen, sometimes due to ones own lack of diligence and foresight, and lack of experience.
    You always learn the best from personal mistakes.

    The following is a list of known bad parts:
    - The Federal ECU - smoked. $100-$499.
    - Wiring Harness, salvageable - fused pins, melted wires. $20-$350.
    - 009 Distributor - melted. $100.
    - Pertronix - melted. $70.
    - Double Relay - smoked. $79
    - Several Connectors - melted. $0.25
    Learning from your own mistake - priceless.

    This afternoon I spent some time cleaning up all this mess, and removing the failed components, and plotting the placement for Microsquirt.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #65
  6. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    I re-tested the rest of the electrical components, and all of the injectors ohmed to spec.. :rofl. I will be re-using them.

    The following will be the new EFI layout:

    [​IMG]

    Microsquirt will be inside the van under the bench away from heat, water, hands, and other things.

    Pink - Relay 1 - Starter Relay
    Purple - Relay 2 - Fuel Pump Relay
    Red - Injectors - 4 individual pairs
    Orange - Coolant Temperature Sensor - Custom Fit via adapter to CHT
    Green - Intake AIR Temperature Sensor - Custom Fit into the intake plenum where EGR used to connect.
    Yellow - GM 3 wire MAP Sensor
    Blue 1 - Vacuum line from throttle body to MAP
    Blue 2 - Vacuum line from intake plenum to Fuel Pressure Regulator.

    The airbox will be replaced with a "cold are intake" piping with a filter from one of the "tuner" cars.
    #66
  7. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    I'll probably (have to) re-use the AUX AIR REGULATOR for idle. Although idle air stepper motor could be machined somewhere into the throttle body....

    The cost:
    $380 for the microsquirt kit: ecu w/ 4 injector terminals, wide band o2 sensor, coolant temperature sensor, wiring harness, relays, fuse, serial cable...
    $50 for the MAP sensor,
    $20 for additional connectors, and shrink tubing.
    $20 for cold air intake.
    ---------------
    Approximate Total: $470.
    #67
  8. STANIMAL

    STANIMAL SUPPORT THE SECOND

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    Aren't you going to run into problems with this setup ?
    #68
  9. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    Have not been down that path yet, so would not know... What are you thinking?
    #69
  10. STANIMAL

    STANIMAL SUPPORT THE SECOND

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    Custom building an FI system ? I see people doing it , but with a lot of pain . Why ?
    #70
  11. seriousracer

    seriousracer be a man dodge tree bark

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    i am not f***ng stupid,but i used too. niles mi.
    no pain in building it ..

    Pain in mapping it...

    dyno time...
    #71
  12. STANIMAL

    STANIMAL SUPPORT THE SECOND

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    Time is money .
    #72
  13. HillbillyNinja

    HillbillyNinja Long timer

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    Ok, I gotta ask. What in the world did you do?
    #73
  14. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    I don't know what caused the original issue, and I can only suspect at this time that the ECU was on its way out. One thing is for certain, it is fried now for sure. I unplugged the ECU cable with the ignition on. It would not have been so bad had the pins not touched. :cry
    #74
  15. seriousracer

    seriousracer be a man dodge tree bark

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    i am not f***ng stupid,but i used too. niles mi.
    If they have a good starting map... And some seat of the pants tuning.

    only about an hour dyno.

    Wide band O2 will help out a lot. And a good five gas analyzer ...

    Best thing he can do is find a guy local, who is really good with mega squirt . There is a computer geek here who has quite a few cars running around on mega.. some as high as 800 horse,..
    He nails maps out of his head almost dead on...
    #75
  16. TooTallRacing

    TooTallRacing Been here awhile

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    I can't offer you any advice on how to fix the problem(s) with your van but I like they way you roll. Keep at it, you will get it.

    :clap
    #76
  17. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    Good news friend. I have found the problem. The ECU has gotten soaked wet and corroded a bit. Multiple paths on the circuit board looked to be damaged by oxidation.

    No capacitors appear to be blown. :clap

    We may be back in business.
    #77
  18. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #78
  19. seriousracer

    seriousracer be a man dodge tree bark

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    i am not f***ng stupid,but i used too. niles mi.
    IT will never work.........
    #79
  20. Mr. Vintage

    Mr. Vintage Family Dude

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    Don't get discouraged - I for one think that EFI is still the way to go. My 1.9 wasserleaker always ran like a watch, despite the lack of oil pressure or coolant. :D And if you do away with the stock system, the feedback loop and self-tune on a megasquirt will do in short order what would take countless iterations with carbs. Technology can be scary, but only because it's different.

    How did the ECU get that wet?
    #80