The ground up yz/wr/xt/tt adventure build

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by yamahaman, Oct 27, 2010.

  1. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    224
    Location:
    melbourne Australia
    So a bit of a set back with progress due to my teething daughter but nevermind I wouldnt have it any other way!


    I Have mounted the rear subframe leveled and trued it to the frame so it is at 90 deg to the frame. I cut some strips from a sheet of 1.9mm mild steel sheet to make the lower mounting tabs for the sub frame. I shaped them and bent them to suit the first contact point on the frame. Once this was done I tacked the first contact point on the top and bottom of each tag. Then I heated up the tags cherry red and with a small hammer dollied them around the tubes to match them with the frame.


    [​IMG][​IMG]

    So now I have also tacked the top tube where the top bolt mounts to the frame.

    The whole rear end is tacked in it final place and nearly ready to have some permenant welds done.

    [​IMG]

    When I put the seat on this is very stable and the seating position is quite comfortable.

    The other thing I compleated was the mount for the Future navigation tower I bent Some more 1.9mm sheet and then ran it through the mill to make sure the whole fitting was parallel because benders tend to stretch the sheet and in order to make sure all is good a quick pass in the mill has done the trick. I have only just held it in place with one rivet so I can get it level vertically then I will tack it. When I go to do the final weld I will clamp a straight edge to the top tube and use an engineers square to make sure the front of the bracket is flat across the front of the bike to mount the future hedlight assembly.

    [​IMG]

    I plant to fit ferrules to the holes in order to increase the bolt area maximising stength in the vertical plane

    :1drink :1drink :1drink :1drink
    #41
  2. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    What kind of geometry is that?
    #42
  3. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

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    Not sure of the question but I think what yor asking is to do with the correct rake and trail of the fork and the angles of the linkage and the shock relationship.

    If the fork is too steep this will make the bike awsome in the single track (slower speed & tight and windy) But it will make it unstable/suseptable to head shake at higher speeds. On the otherhand if you have the fork raked out (like a chopper) to much it will make the bike stable at speed but turn like a boat at the slower stuff. Hence a happy medium must be found to make the bike complient in a range of terrains

    The other part to all of the geometry is the shock, swingarm and linkage ratios. If you change all of this too much you may have a situation where the rear wheel progression through the stroke will be affected. This will change the leverage on the shock causing problems with the valving in the shock. Solution Copy somthing that works already. All points were transfered across from another bike.
    #43
  4. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
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    melbourne Australia
    I was out walking my crying, drooling, teething daughter and I walked past a small bike wreckers and I spotted a tank hanging up in the window so I went back today and took the rolling frame to shop to check for a rough fitment and low and behold it is not to bad. Forked out the cash (bit too much) went back home to cut an old tank bracket off and play with some fitments. Turns out this acrebis tank is no longer made and as rare as hens teeth not to mention that it is brand new and never been fitted.

    [​IMG]

    The red is not my first choice of colour but this just means that the bike will end up with a red/white or a red/black colour scheme. Any surgestions?

    Apparently this tank is 4.1gal/18 l can anyone give me a clue as I am finding conflicting info as to its capacity?

    [​IMG]

    A front end like this and we should be all good

    :1drink :1drink :1drink
    #44
  5. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
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    melbourne Australia
    Well I was at a mates place and we got talking about the dr650 back wheel and how it is very close to the ktm wheel and we sumised that the dr wheel had to fit the yz rear end so off I went to find a suitable set of bearings.

    First hurdle the closest bearing to put the yz axel into the dr hub is an odd ball 47mm OD and a crazy 7/8 inch ID this puts the metric ID at 22.22:baldy
    This is more than a loose running fit, not acceptable, so I had to fit some brass shim to take up the slack this worked ok for now.

    I then had to make a few new spacers to put in the wheel no worries. Fitted the wheel up and low and behold the dr wheel is only 3mm narrower from inside disk to inside sprocket than the yz wheel, so if I make the internal spacer again 3mm wider and trim some off the two outer spacers the wheel will fit up to the yz rear end with no problems. If I get a dr wheel to run as a cush rear for this project (heaps cheaper option) I will re-lace with an 18 inch and change the offset to suit the whole setup

    Can anyone help with a metric bearing 47 x 22 x 14 this bearing is not listed here at my bearing wholesalers but it has to exist I just know it does


    [​IMG]

    :1drink :1drink :1drink :1drink
    #45
  6. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    #46
  7. Peter M DK

    Peter M DK Adventurer

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    Oct 7, 2010
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    10
    I have a Acerbis tank like the red tank on my XT600 43F.
    I think I once have put 19L fuel in it.

    How big i your rear tank?
    #47
  8. jonkem

    jonkem Got let out early

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    Feb 14, 2010
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    Bedfordshire, UK
    Isn't that the standard bearing size for a Honda VTR 1000??
    #48
  9. wiggywildwildwest

    wiggywildwildwest cranky bugger

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    822
    Location:
    Blackwater, QLD, Australia.
    i don't understand wanting to use the dr wheel. aren't you better off, at least tyre choice wise with an 18 inch rear ? and would it be easier to knock up a new axle ?
    #49
  10. soupknotzee

    soupknotzee Been here awhile

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    Nov 4, 2008
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    The LBC / Summit County
    Im guessing he is looking to use a wheel with a cush drive.
    #50
  11. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    Yeah, he says in his last post if it works, he'll lace the hub to an 18" rim.
    #51
  12. gs-ell

    gs-ell Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2010
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    110
    Location:
    Sunny Yorkshire
    now then

    very interseting...............subscribed!!
    good luck with the build!
    #52
  13. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
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    melbourne Australia
    Well I have been waiting for a heap of bits for ages. I have got some mounting brackets for the foot pegs coming on the slowest boat from the states once these have come I can set up the rear brake master cylinder and brake pedal. This will almost compleate the rolling chassis, the fuel tank needs to have some brackets fabricated but it is aligned and all is looking good.

    I am also waiting for a heap of yz parts, Four gears for a yz 450 gear box the dreaded 3rd and 5th. The yz's are renowned for not holding 5th gear once the dogs wear out. This is a rebuild that is due as soon as these gears turn up because this bike is for sale (Will be a good buy when its done)

    Then there is my yz
    [​IMG]
    I have the exact same problem with my yz 426 after a 500km trip in the desert no fifth gear Although there is a silver lining in every cloud I found an almost new wr 426 gear box on ebay for $112 with $35 shipping considering each gear is over hundred bucks here it also came with a heap of other bits counter balencers kick starter assy and a full shift drum and forks this was an awsome find. This yz has easily done 7000 km plus per year since I got it as a wreck in 2003 just a small list of the parts replaced over the years.
    -two new heads
    -one set of cases
    -three new barrels
    -two new rods
    -pistons/rings (who knows)
    -timing chain every 50 hours (who knows how many)
    -one compleate crank
    -all brearings (Twice)
    -WR flywheel, stator and Vortex ignition

    This is the fourth major rebuild I have done to this bike!!!:dhorse some times feels like im flogging a dead horse but I love to ride her and she feels like an extension of me im so comfortable riding/racing her and will continue to do so untill it falls apart under me

    So this time it gets new gear box and associated bits, rings a few bearings oh yeah and weld up the stripped sump plug.

    So a bit of work ahead of me in the next week or two
    so be paitent with the main project


    :1drink :1drink :1drink
    #53
  14. DANJET600

    DANJET600 Need 2 go bush ASAP

    Joined:
    May 22, 2010
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    Location:
    OZ, Brisvegas
    lovin the build

    :lurk
    #54
  15. HighwayChile

    HighwayChile greetings from Wa state

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2003
    Oddometer:
    4,709
    Location:
    Bow, WA USA
    awesome job you have far more talent then I'll ever dream of.

    what about added braces on the sub frame? it appears made to hold up to stock kit fine but with a added fuel tank in back and going across continent some bracing would help avoid trouble in the bush.

    build on ! :1drink
    #55
  16. A_Vasiliev

    A_Vasiliev M-ass-ter Craftsman

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    Dec 7, 2007
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    Location:
    Voronezh, Russia
    Freakin' sweet. Keep it up.
    #56
  17. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    224
    Location:
    melbourne Australia
    Well my little presents have been turning up quite stedily

    [​IMG]

    I won this pair of footpegs from ebay $70 bucks and The brackets and pins $45 bucks for the footpegs from MRcycles I have only put them on to get a feel for their location and they feel good they are actually almost perfect compared to the yz measurements. I have to find some plate to make up the brackets and rear brake mounts.

    [​IMG]

    Just got an oversize GYTR front disk and extender bracket in the mail Going to have a look at a front master, hose and caliper on sunday

    :1drink:1drink:1drink
    #57
  18. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
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    melbourne Australia
    I got some more bits tonight and started on the brakes for the machine!

    I patiently sat down and started to work with some thin cardboard, scizzors, ruler, level and a marker

    [​IMG]

    This is what I have come up with! I am going to make it out if 10mm plate and add 3mm under the footpegs.

    [​IMG]

    Here is a rough mock up of how things will look after I make up the plates The original foot pegs are mounted on 1/2 inch plate and are so bad in looks and design that they will not grace the pages of this build. They have to be spaced out so far to allow for enough room around the motor.


    [​IMG]


    I collected the front brake master and slave cylinder today as well as a set of renthal tapered bars to replace the skinny 7/8 bars. Haven't mounted them yet because I need to get some bolts for the mounts. I have been searching through my spare barts bin and found a cluch lever of an old Pusskvarnah which will do the trick on the build up.

    :1drink:1drink:1drink
    #58
  19. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

    Joined:
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    Location:
    melbourne Australia
    A heap of cutting with the grinder and a quick linish. I have now got rear brakes.

    [​IMG]



    Once I had the bottom bolt of the footpeg mounted, I then just worked my way up the bracket mounting all of the bits. First drill and tapped the bracket to fit the brake leaver and then I drilled the threads out of the master to make them clearence holes. Once I had these drilled out I could work out the radius of the actuating lever on the back of the brake lever and in turn align the master cylinder and drill and tap mounting threads. I have left the top mounting bolt out of the foot peg bracket because I want the pegs to be parallel with the ground when its finished, due to there being no motor the back of the bike is sitting up quite high so this will be one of the finishing touches. Using a mate mill I will be removing some excess metal to reduce some weight and in one section I will take 4mm off the surface to shift the master and the brake lever towards the center of the bike.

    :1drink:1drink:1drink
    #59
  20. laramie LC4

    laramie LC4 crash test dummy!

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    nice work but that master cylinder looks awfully exposed to me. just saying...

    laramie :beer
    #60