The ground up yz/wr/xt/tt adventure build

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by yamahaman, Oct 27, 2010.

  1. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

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    the rally cover has arrived and I have just taped it on to get a feel for what its going to look like and what I am going to make to mount it.
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    I cant wait to do some small mods to the rallye cover and to bend up the inner support and fit the headlight.

    :1drink:1drink:1drink
    #81
  2. Mezo

    Mezo Banned

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    Do you work for Fraser & Mountain then Hamish :wink:

    Mezo.
    #82
  3. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

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    Sure do! kind of handy having the sheet metal factory at the main office, You must have some keen eyes you gotta let me know how ya stalking me?
    #83
  4. Mezo

    Mezo Banned

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    Its written on your ladders you donut. :lol3

    Mezo. :thumb
    #84
  5. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

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    Well it says FM commercial maintenance not Fraser and Mountain (two seperate companies) you must of looked it up super slooth
    #85
  6. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    Can you give us more details on the spacers for LC4 rear wheel? Thinking of doing it on my WR400F
    #86
  7. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

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    I have made the lc4 hub fit the newer swing arm from the 04 yz which I am using on ths bike. I have also fitted it to the 426 with nearly no problems except for a disk alignment issue which I will have to make a custom adaptor to mount the disk with. Once I Solve this I will post it on the wr 400 thread to show how to install the lc4 wheel. I will also supply accurate drawings to machine the spacers up. Very easy for some one with a lathe to do.
    #87
  8. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

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    I got all of the stuff today for my front wheel. I got the rim back from the anodisers and the heavy duty spokes came in so all there is left to do is lace the wheel.
    I decided to go for the heavy duty not the super heavy duty because then you have to drill and countersink the hub and this wheel setup has worked on my yz for years without a hitch.

    MAKE SURE TO APPLY ANTI-SEIZE TO THE THREADS SO YOU CAN MAINTAIN THE WHEEL IN THE FUTURE

    [​IMG]

    I decided to go for the black rim with silver hub because the black hubs make the bike look heavier and coloured hubs are for showboats!

    Step 1:
    When lacing your front wheels the first spoke is the most important because the offset of all of the nipple dimples are pressed and drilled to match the bend of the spokes and drilling pattern of the spokes. Once your sure of the alignment and have checked you spoke positions all the rest is easy.
    As you can see the spoke recesses are staggered accross the rim for the left and right spokes make sure that you put the left spokes in the left spoke holes. This is why I find it easier to do this job on the floor not in a stand.
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    Step 2:
    Once the first spoke is in then it is easy feed a spoke through every second hole in the hub and it should align with every fourth hole in the rim. Keep an eye on the dimples in the rim and they will align up with the direction of the spoke.
    [​IMG]

    Step 3:
    Now its time to add the opposing spoke on this side of the wheel. Feed the spoke through the hub and towards the rim the spoke will go into the hole in the centre of the gap. Again take note of the dimple to ensure that it is in correct alignment.
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    Step 4:
    Turn the rim over and start the same process over again the spokes can pretty much only go one way now but keep checking you spoke dimple alignment now the hole to put the spoke in is easy to work out.
    Take not the spokes take a little more force to get then in during step 4 & 5 this is normal (although the spoke should not need enought pressure that it permenantly bends the spoke though. If so seek professional help for the rim)
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    Step 5:
    Fill the gaps only one way to go now
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    Final step:
    From here you can either tension the wheel your self or get it done by a wheel builder. I have got a wheel builder near me who is quite cheep if you take the wheel to him like this. I have seen and heard of horror stories where rims have cracked, broken and worse collapsed so be careful with tensioning your wheels. In my opinion give it to the pros.

    When you send the wheel to the pros they like to have all of the nipples done up to the same position ie, all nipples done up to have just no threads showing, this gives them a good starting point. My wheel smith also likes to have the bearings in with no seals this helps him to fit it in his truing stand.
    [​IMG]

    :1drink:1drink:1drink
    #88
  9. Mezo

    Mezo Banned

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    Loctite Anti seize :norton

    Learn something new every day, cant wait to see the rear laced up. :deal

    Mezo.
    #89
  10. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

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    This is the sixth wheel I have had these guys tension for me and the first time I went to them, they turned me away because I had no antisieze and every other time I have been there they badger me over the anti sieze so Now I always leave a bit on the rim and spokes to prove it to them. In saying that I have an 18" for a yz and I lent it to a dude that did a six days enduro and two finke desert races and all of the racing and riding I have done and I am yet to put a spanner on it. I built this wheel just before the six days in new zealand whenever that was mabey 2006.:dunno



    AND YES LOCTITE ANTI-SIEZE IS AN CONTRADICTION IN TERMS BUT ITS THE BEST OUT THERE.
    :1drink:1drink:1drink
    #90
  11. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

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    I have been agonising over buying the sprocket carrier and I have been quoted $390 here in melbourne. Now that was full retail and I havn't begun to chase cheaper prices here in Australia and nor will I. I am sick to death of the aussie importers adding so much to there prices to the justification of "we dont have the population base to support low prices".
    I priced one of these sprocket carriers in the states and they are 190 plus 45 for shipping. How can it be? especially when the dollar is the same.

    So I did some home work and found out that the talon and rad hubs are made out of 6061 t6 aluminium. I went to get a quote on a piece of round 6061 bar 180 dia x 100mm long and low and behold $55.

    so

    We go from this to a carrier over the next week or so
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    So after a bit of material removed ready to drill
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    That is an inch and a half drill bit (38.1mm) and i have bored it out to 40mm and added the inner taper to match the angle on the inside of the fingers of the carrier.
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    So here they are sitting back to back and the next step is to part the excess, below the blue mark(somehow?), then machine up the face where the sprocket carrier sits and the bearing pocket on the lathe. Then hit the mill with a dividing table to make the fingers.

    :1drink:1drink:1drink
    #91
  12. laramie LC4

    laramie LC4 crash test dummy!

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    Very nice!
    #92
  13. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    :lurk
    #93
  14. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    Holy shit. Talk about ground up build, machining your own sprocket carrier! :eek1:bow

    Watching for more. :lurk
    #94
  15. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

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    So I cut the excess off and machined the face off.
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    What a mess I have taken everything off the outside and created the profile that I am happy with.
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    Now I am ready to bore the bearing pocket. I have pushed the bearings out of the carrier I am copying so I can measure the bearing pocket I have measured a very slight interference fit of .04 mm to I am going to hit the books to check how much of a fit this is because I have only got one chance to do this and I dont want to mess it up. After I bore the bearing pocket, do a test fitting of the bearings, I have an appointment with the mill and indexing table to make the fingers, drill the bolt holes and remove some material from the sprocket flange so I can fit a stealth sprocket (It has six rivets on it which need some clearance holes/grooves)

    You wont be able to see it but I have made this carrier to Fit a yz/wr sprocket which has a larger PCD and a larger inner circle. I have done this so I can swap them between all of our bikes.

    :1drink:1drink:1drink
    #95
  16. JensEskildsen

    JensEskildsen Long timer

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    Awesome work, no really :nod
    #96
  17. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

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    I had another night in the machine shop on the mill and I have done the easy part of the milling.

    [​IMG]
    Here I am getting the mill ready to drill the bolt holes for the sprocket. Set the indexing head up and now checking the slot drill with the sprocket holes to make sure the first one lines up and then the rest will follow on with the indexing head.
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    Now I am putting groove's in to reduce weight and to allow for the stealth sprocket rivet's to fit in as I think they are the best sprockets on the market.
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    Here is the alignment with the hub ready for the fingers to be milled out.
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    Here is the front and back of the sprocket carrier. There is one last job and that is to mill the fingers in the back of the carrier and fit the bearings and seals, all finished soon.

    :1drink:1drink:1drink
    #97
  18. overlandr

    overlandr Dystopist

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    Great work on the pre-cnc M/C tools. You are probably aware that there'd be a small business opportunity if you could churn these out at the right price. I'd be up for 2.:evil
    #98
  19. schattat

    schattat Long timer

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    Damn fine work!!! :thumb
    Wish I had some CNC machines. I've got a tonne of thing I'd like to make :evil
    #99
  20. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    Should be pretty bomb proof! :D

    How much does it weigh compared to stock? If you want some inspiration on how to lighten it further, I've got a CNC'd KTM sprocket carrier made by Haan Wheels I could post some pictures of next week.

    Lukas