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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Beater, Jan 31, 2011.
This gets better all the time. Nice work!
evidence that 400 posts have been worthwhile
I am > < close to pulling the trigger and doing this to my RT (now R80S).
The pic above and this:
May just be the tipping point......
Anyone want to buy all the R90S stuff off my BMW and a cool little cafe seat and subframe?
Those are DR650 forks with the stop triple clamps. I don't see dents in his tank either. I wonder if he shifted the tank back a bit? In any case, I have some DR forks that I'd trade for beer if you want them.
FYI - If you are using the stock triples with your DRZ400 or DR650 forks, your problem is not the tank, it's the frame. The lower triple hits the frame before the top hits the tank. Just sayin.
is it the dr stops that hit ?
On the DRZ it's actually the lower triple bolts that hit the frame brace at the headstock. I believe the DR is the same way. I am going to correct this by getting in on the new group triple buy ...
DR650s are the same, had to build up stock frame stop.
Feelin' a bit naughty ...
Does not compute.....weird ass looking piece of coal.
I get it.
that my old wheel hub?
Machine work complete? Now on to the bike? Been waiting for this...
Yes sir. Ready for the 4 bolt monolever conversion. I already have a rim for it too. (18" Weimann)
Now we will build a rear wheel. And to up the complexity, we will be lacing it off-set. Not by much ... but hopefully enough to put a 140 on it. Either way ... a NEW HURDLE!
Hey Beater how does one go about lacing for an offset? Guess we will find out huh?
I've thought about using a jig. And really ... I think it is the way to go ... so ... We will definitely find out
PS - Stephen Bottcher has paved the way for us. Read this ... and get some GREAT ideas.
Getting ready to do the same, but for sort of different reasons-- I'm rebuilding my wheels, and my wheel alignment sucks!
Anyway, the bicycle standard is the Campagnolo dishing tool:
Which is placed alternately on either side of the wheel, usually striving for no offset.
Homemade versions are not hard to fabricate:
If you want to build in offset, just set-up the tool to match how you want the wheel to end up and check only that side (drive or non-drive).
So, for example: If you want the wheel offset 2mm away from the final drive, find the setting for the tool for 0mm offset when placing the tool on the drive side of the rim and the hub, then retract the center screw (or pointer, depending on what you're using) on the tool 2mm. When building and truing the wheel, regularly check and see if tool is contacting hub and rim (in two points). If so, offset is correct.
You could probably do this on a good, flat table if you're careful and you had some good, flat blocks to raise the rim up enough to measure things, there's always another way, the above is just the way it's done "normally".
Yeah ... I was thinking about something like this. I'm not sure this is where I'm going though, as I don't think that the hub is completely secure. The problem is that our BMW hub doesn't have an axle, Not a 'defined center'.
This is probably where I will be going. I will post a picture soon, but the rim of the hub and the edge of the rim line up normally. I think that setting the rim a touch higher (calculated of course), and the hub on the table ... and then screwing them down to the table ... might be the best way to go. But I'm still thinking about this.
Thanks for the information!
Agreed, it's a bit of apples and oranges . . .
I think I'd use the edge of the hub (big circle) as a reference point no matter the method--even though it's cast, not machined, it's close enough.