The GSification of a Poor Unsuspecting RT

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Beater, Jan 31, 2011.

  1. igormortis

    igormortis Cafe Reise

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    This gets better all the time. Nice work!
  2. Ras Thurlo

    Ras Thurlo Desert Lion

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    +1

    evidence that 400 posts have been worthwhile

  3. Sic Semper Tyrannis

    Sic Semper Tyrannis Plays with Banjos, Boats and Bikes...

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    I am > < close to pulling the trigger and doing this to my RT (now R80S).

    The pic above and this:

    [​IMG]

    Rocket-Garage R80

    May just be the tipping point......


    Anyone want to buy all the R90S stuff off my BMW and a cool little cafe seat and subframe?
  4. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    Those are DR650 forks with the stop triple clamps. I don't see dents in his tank either. I wonder if he shifted the tank back a bit? In any case, I have some DR forks that I'd trade for beer if you want them.
  5. Beater

    Beater The Bavarian Butcher

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    FYI - If you are using the stock triples with your DRZ400 or DR650 forks, your problem is not the tank, it's the frame. The lower triple hits the frame before the top hits the tank. Just sayin.

  6. tdrrally

    tdrrally Long timer

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    is it the dr stops that hit ?
  7. Beater

    Beater The Bavarian Butcher

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    On the DRZ it's actually the lower triple bolts that hit the frame brace at the headstock. I believe the DR is the same way. I am going to correct this by getting in on the new group triple buy ...

  8. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    DR650s are the same, had to build up stock frame stop.
  9. Beater

    Beater The Bavarian Butcher

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    Feelin' a bit naughty ...

    :happay

    [​IMG]
  10. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Does not compute.....weird ass looking piece of coal.:dunno






















    I get it.:hide
  11. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer

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    that my old wheel hub?
  12. woodly1069

    woodly1069 Long timer

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    Machine work complete? Now on to the bike? Been waiting for this...
  13. Beater

    Beater The Bavarian Butcher

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    Yes sir. Ready for the 4 bolt monolever conversion. I already have a rim for it too. (18" Weimann)


    Now we will build a rear wheel. And to up the complexity, we will be lacing it off-set. Not by much ... but hopefully enough to put a 140 on it. Either way ... a NEW HURDLE!
  14. woodly1069

    woodly1069 Long timer

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    Hey Beater how does one go about lacing for an offset? Guess we will find out huh?
  15. Beater

    Beater The Bavarian Butcher

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    I've thought about using a jig. And really ... I think it is the way to go ... so ... We will definitely find out :evil

    PS - Stephen Bottcher has paved the way for us. Read this ... and get some GREAT ideas.

    http://www.stephenbottcher.net/BMW/rearconv.htm
  16. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    hubba hubba!
  17. Beater

    Beater The Bavarian Butcher

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    Very Punny!

    :lol3
  18. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    Getting ready to do the same, but for sort of different reasons-- I'm rebuilding my wheels, and my wheel alignment sucks!

    Anyway, the bicycle standard is the Campagnolo dishing tool:

    [​IMG]

    Which is placed alternately on either side of the wheel, usually striving for no offset.

    Homemade versions are not hard to fabricate:

    [​IMG]

    If you want to build in offset, just set-up the tool to match how you want the wheel to end up and check only that side (drive or non-drive).

    So, for example: If you want the wheel offset 2mm away from the final drive, find the setting for the tool for 0mm offset when placing the tool on the drive side of the rim and the hub, then retract the center screw (or pointer, depending on what you're using) on the tool 2mm. When building and truing the wheel, regularly check and see if tool is contacting hub and rim (in two points). If so, offset is correct.

    You could probably do this on a good, flat table if you're careful and you had some good, flat blocks to raise the rim up enough to measure things, there's always another way, the above is just the way it's done "normally".
  19. Beater

    Beater The Bavarian Butcher

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    Yeah ... I was thinking about something like this. I'm not sure this is where I'm going though, as I don't think that the hub is completely secure. The problem is that our BMW hub doesn't have an axle, Not a 'defined center'.

    This is probably where I will be going. I will post a picture soon, but the rim of the hub and the edge of the rim line up normally. I think that setting the rim a touch higher (calculated of course), and the hub on the table ... and then screwing them down to the table ... might be the best way to go. But I'm still thinking about this.

    Thanks for the information! :freaky
  20. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    Agreed, it's a bit of apples and oranges . . .

    I think I'd use the edge of the hub (big circle) as a reference point no matter the method--even though it's cast, not machined, it's close enough.