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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by lesman, Jun 3, 2017.
Great thread. Grabbing the popcorn.
Not into the polished look, because I know I will never be able to keep it that way. IME at least, the degradation of the years only slightly degrades the original factory appearance of mine.
Congratulations on the effort.
Your mates bike, is that a later engine or did the last loopers feed in the tonti style engine.
The problem with messing with guzzi rear suspension is that the UJ can only reliably work through so many degrees. To get better suspension you need more travel, which means a longer swing arm. And better damping to control the weighty bevel box, which may be sorted.
Looks like the same length swing arm as mine, so limited to the same travel (unless you like replacing UJ's and the bearing).
A later, longer Cali swing arm maybe. I think they produced three different lengths.
Not my bike. Scudman is a well known Guzzista. He has a ton of neat Guzzi projects. He also restores Loopers. Fatty is a project of left over parts.
Early Tonti swingarms are the same length as a Looper(I bought one). You can put a late model 1100 motor in a Loop frame, no problem. You need new front engine spacer mounts.
I lifted these photo's from Greg Bender's site.
A little issue with the front fender. The fender bracket need to be rerouted.
Sort of. Drum brake swingarms are longer by 2 mm on the driveshaft side only. Beginning with the first rear disc brake models, the rear drive pinion carrier flange was made 2 mm thicker and that same amount was removed from the flange it mounts to on the swingarm. So if you put an Eldo rear drive on a T3 swingarm, you'll find the axle won't go in because it's slightly cocked. Same with the reverse: T3 rear drive on a Loop swingarm. There are ways around it of course, but it's something to keep in mind.
My lying eyes didn't catch the difference. I bought the Tonti swing arm because I thought I had a "chance" to utilize my Quota caliper hangar.
When It became apparent that they looked lying eyes identical except for the caliper hangar stay versus the anchor arm stay . I chocked it up to once again to jumping in before doing enough research. I now understand why they changed almost everything (swingarm, rear end,axle, drive shaft and ujoints) to mount a rear disk.
Thanks for the heads up.
Would not keeping the outboard alternator you have, to replace the dynamo original, be better than the Bosch crank mounted alternator. Which would mean using the original loop front mtg brkt\housing.
Is the Quota charging system as marginal as the Tontis. I know there are uprated output systems available in the aftermarket, but $$$$.
Quota charging system is the Ducati setup. It's 375 watt range maybe closer to 400 watts. I had an enduralast setup on my GSPD . It's the same setup as my Quota. Very simple and robust. As of right now I will be running an Eldo motor with a Nippon Denson Forklift alternator....670 watts.
Eldo/Ambo don't have outboard rotor. They run generators up top. The only reason I'm not running a generator is the ability to run an alternator in a smaller package with a built in regulator. My donor bikes may have questionable electrical parts. The alternator was $75 ish shipped. The 1/2" aluminum for the bracket was $9-10.
My Quota is my main ride for the last 5 years. The Eldo super bike will be the future main ride. If there is any money left in my retirement account. The Ambo could be a "Fatty" impersonator.
I forgot to mention in the above photo's. Mike Tiberio designed the front engine spacers. He built an Eldo with a Convert Motor and Auto Transmission. Mike also raced Guzzi's and other bikes for 17 years +/-. He quit roadracing in 2005 but he didn't stop going fast.
He set a LSR record this month ..twice on a Guzzi. Here's a link to Wild Goose Guzzi. The second page has the good stuff.
He also at one time raced a Looper. Be sure to read page two. Love the no front brake unless it's a super small drum.
You can go this route on the swingarm...?
I just made my own....
Lose the rear caliper mount and make a new one.....
Put this on all metal parts that you want to stay nice.....
Back in the hole.........
Is your caliper the P32 or P34? I have decided that the Quota caliper will not be utilized. I have a Tokico caliper that might be used but I prefer the P34 caliper. I like the way you routed the brake line along the anchor rod. I noticed you have the battery under your bike. I thought it was under the seat cowl?
MG cycle used to sell the battery box but I got it off eBay from a guy @ MG cycle and had to modify it some.....
Caliper hangar 1/2" or 3/8" Aluminum? Was the Hangar made in the early " Solo Hole" phase of your Holy career?
I'm really leaning for a P34 caliper . New they are about $135ish shipped with pads.
Half inch.. I used the old swingarm Mount and cut the hole off and welded The Hanger on ......
120 I think when I bought mine inflation and all that.....
I noticed your lower frame rail holes are not perfectly aligned. I had one like that too, and after I knackered a couple of UJ and support bearings I made a jig to set the centre line of the bearing and the centre line of the outpu shaft were co-incident. Once set, I used a tight locating hardened steel dowel to make sure they would always be correct. No more problems after that.
Actually I cheated - I worked the gearbox output shaft off the spines. Was easy enough to do if you have access to a decent lathe.
The problem had been there since I had the bike at only a few months old, became more evident, and expensive, once the power was increased. Yours may be fine, just a loose assembly photo.