The Honda Aero 125 Thread

Discussion in 'Battle Scooters' started by RedArrow, Nov 14, 2013.

  1. scootrboi

    scootrboi Long timer

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    I wish there was a term in use that described the ratio of oil : fuel in a distinctly different way than air : fuel. Whenever this issue surfaces it becomes nonsensical to me, because richness has two different meanings to 2 stroke fans, but they get perpetually confused.
    Now that I am involved with 2 strokes they seem more interesting and appealing than ever before- I used to dislike them. It would seem that old 2 strokes designed to run on ordinary lubricants would have a substantial added safety factor when run on top of the line synthetics made for oil injection. For instance the 1962 Fuji we are getting next month probably was designed for 30w dino oil. We will use Amsoil premix in the same amount, which will I expect provide several times the protection. Same for Aero, to a lesser extent.
    When we installed the new oil injector in Aero, we left the adjustment the same. It seemed to have an idle setting, a point below it would not go, and any movement of the throttle would increase the amount of lube. Then we watched for smoke. Is there anything else to 'adjusting to specs?' Red's scooter runs well as it is and hardly smokes at all, and that is only sometimes when just started up. I am completely into original specs. Dead stock, as my brother calls it, has been what has kept me from disaster most of my biking career. I would appreciate your comments.
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  2. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Ancient trailbike padwan

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    Just from my own past experience with both a Suzi TS90 and a Honda MT 250 dual sport 2cycle, There should be in the owner's manual, ( better yet to get a shop manual..) a mention of setting the oil pump volume control lever's position to a mark on the carburetor's slide. On my Suzuki it was a little dot on the carb slide/piston, that was to be lined up at a partial throttle opening with the upper, inner edge of the carb's intake bell, matched to a mark on the injection pump's volume lever and cast in mark on the injection pump. You adjusted the pump by increasing or decreasing the length of the injection pump's cable housing. Every manufacturer does it differently. Just for comparison sake:

    I've owned 2 SAAB 2 stroke autos: The premix ones were run at 40:1. When your 'refill' light came on on the gas gauge, you were to quickly find a gas station and prefill the fuel tank with an exact quart of SAAB's propriatory oil or non-detergent 30# oil, and then fill exactly to the cutoff on the gas pump's nozzle. Then take the car for a vigorous drive around some hilly or rough streets with a few turns for a few blocks. This from a native Swede that turned wrenches on these cars. The oil injection SAAB's you just kept an eye on the 3 quart oil reservoir and an eye on the oil pump blinker light. As long as it was blinking once or a few times a minute you were fine. Same oil BTW.

    Visually when a an injected engined bike is set up properly, there should be a bit of smoke when idling while warm, quite a bit when on start circuit and cold, and they should show a fair amount when under a hard load. My Suzuki always seemed less smoky than my friend's Yamaha though, it's kinda relative because Suzuki injected their oil directly into the main bearings and the rotary valve plate, and that was then inducted into the cylinder and burned. Yamaha and Honda pumped into the intake tract and (or) reed box, as did Hodaka when they finally made an injection engine. All different. None of these manufacturers ever suggested adding oil to the gas during break-in, local Suzuki shop mechanic said we be skirting with non compliance with the warranty if we did.
  3. bikeridermark

    bikeridermark Long timer

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    Nice little overnighter to Red River Gorge in Kentucky. Great twisties, beautiful scenery. This is an old RR tunnel for a logging train, that is now the paved road.
    Two T-max's and two Reflexes. Great day!
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  4. oldhippie1

    oldhippie1 Been here awhile

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    Its not smart to ride in shorts!
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  5. RedArrow

    RedArrow With scootrboi

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    Yama ~ Thank you , this is a nice piece of writing. I have a question for you, have you ever done an electric starter conversion on a CT bike. Do you think it is possible?
    ~ Red
  6. RedArrow

    RedArrow With scootrboi

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    Great pictures bikeridermark, Kentucky looks green and springy. I bet it is fun riding those big scoots.
    ~ Red
  7. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Ancient trailbike padwan

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    Not if you want to keep the stock engine. There's all kinds of Honda clone engines available with electric start. Fitting them to your CT110? PITA time.

    You've got one of Honda's easiest-to-kick-start bikes, aside from the little 50cc and 70cc bikes. My Honda Cubster takes 2 to 5 kicks some mornings They all still take some careful choke and throttle control to make 1 kick cold starts. You should track down someone local in Bisbee who knows about kick-starting big British singles, the technique is really not all that different.
  8. scootrboi

    scootrboi Long timer

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    We have some friends who can help. But for the record, I have owned and worked on a lot of kickstart motorbikes, and this one is devilish. It just doesn't seem to have the capacity to start easily without a push, and I have suspected that it isn't getting much spark until the engine is turning fast. My Honda 90s were easy starters, even when I knew next to nothing about them.
  9. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Ancient trailbike padwan

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    How bright is the spark? Can it be seen easily in daylight? Not exactly full sun, but 'bright' conditions. It should make a barely audible 'snap' noise. It's not like this bike is a magneto/CDI unit which might need to be spun up to make appreciable spark. ( Which, BTW, my clone engined Cub has a pretty good spark at less normal kicking speeds.)

    Sometimes the plastic bit that attaches from the HT lead to the plug will develop a high resistance, they generally are 4K ohms.

    IIRC you've got a 6 volt, points and condenser set. Does the battery hold a good voltage with the points closed, like at least 5 volts? Does the battery get an occasional float charge when the bike is not used for a while? The small battery on the CT's often times don't always stay fully charged especially if your running the headlight and just puttering about at low rpms.

    IIRC you also bought a Keihen clone replacement carburetor, they're set up with a pretty lean idle circuit mixture, and the choke on these are weakly override springed, so they don't enrichen the mixture as well as they should. Best test, (if the spark appears to be working well..) is to take the rubber airfilter>carb tube off and see if you can get some heartening bursts of running by manually 'choking' it with the palm of your hand or a clean coffee can lid over the carb's opening.
    Wentwest likes this.
  10. bikeridermark

    bikeridermark Long timer

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    I know! I tell him that whenever he wears them.
  11. bikeridermark

    bikeridermark Long timer

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    Red, Kentucky is beautiful this time of year! Pink and white dogwoods flowering, redbuds blooming, grass is really green. Trees aren't at full leaf yet.
    We ran many miles of twisty back roads today, mostly up on ridge tops, with panoramic views on both sides. Cows wandering the hillside pastures, old tobacco barns, many with barn quilts painted on them.
    It was one of my top cycling days ever!
  12. bikeridermark

    bikeridermark Long timer

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    I should stop and take good pictures sometime. We don't stop often enough!
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  13. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Ancient trailbike padwan

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    I didn't get any pictures, but I did spend part of the afternoon rechecking the planned routes and some streets I didn't check last week for my "First Annual" Alley and Back Street Sweeper adventure, here in Coos Bay/North Bend. Small self guided enduro/tour of some pretty and lesser known alleyways and byways here. I had fun.
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  14. BandBGuy

    BandBGuy Adventurer

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  15. BandBGuy

    BandBGuy Adventurer

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    @Wentwest I want to bore my stock cylinder and install this piston. Can you please remind me or us the arrow position relative to install of the Suzuki Piston overbore? I read quite a bit about @RedArrow woes and delays w/ the shop in Vermont. But I have found a few shops that specialize however I could use a bit of help if you folks don't mind ... Here are my questions as I'm not prepared yet. Do I need to provide compression ratios and specs? Is it advisable to send the Piston to the shop along with the Cylinder? I'm thinking definitely. I decarbonized my piston, rings etc. around 400 miles ago. I would say the bore and overall top end was in "good-very good shape". I guess my concern is. What are the questions to know before I (Un-Honda) the motor? It is a concern that the bore will be done by a shop a "new shop" (first experience) and the piston made for an RM250 is spooking me. It is running quite well but one of us got lazy over the winter.
  16. BandBGuy

    BandBGuy Adventurer

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    I've already done tires, brakes, and the BELT. Oh man, that belt job was scary. But she is in great shape and I want to do the right thing. Everything still works and for my purposes I'd like to keep it for awhile and maybe put it in preservation mode. But for now I want it running great, and to provide a fun ride. It only has 5,800 miles - Do I bore it or leave it ?!
  17. RedArrow

    RedArrow With scootrboi

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    Yama ~ The thing about Trail is a regression of being able to kick start, last week we put in a new sparkplug and she kicked over, then I did not ride her for a week and went out yesterday and I started having troubles again, so I finally rolled her and she started right up. She kicks cold, but not once she warms up. So one idea was to pull the spark plug and look at it and it was oily on the edges, do you think oil is getting past the rings?
    I'm reluctant to pull the clutch apart because she has such great shifting and compression no clutch slippage when running. Everything else on Trail seems fine. It is just the kick start randomness...ideas?
    ~ Red
  18. RedArrow

    RedArrow With scootrboi

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    BandBGuy ~ I'm trying to understand why such a huge piston? We looked up the specs and the RM250 is has a 67mm bore. Aero is 55mm Now it is my understanding that if you over,over,over bore you will throw off a bunch of other stuff. Is there a 2 cylinder RM250?
    ~ Red
  19. RedArrow

    RedArrow With scootrboi

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    bikeridermark ~ Thank you for posting your ride report. It is always exciting to see different parts of this country. I have not spent anytime in Kentucky, but it looks really pretty. I like those Tobacco barns!
    ~ Red
  20. Squar

    Squar Jim

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    BandBguy, With 5,800 miles on the clock and running well I would advise leaving well alone....especially as it's running good, once you remove metal by over-boring you can't replace it, so run it until it stops - if it ever does, my Lead 80 ran for 12,000 miles before it's engine self-destructed even though it was always used with care; my current Lead 125 has 4,650 miles and runs like a dream, there's no way I would tear it to pieces to try to 'improve' it.
    Keep it STOCK as long as you can.

    Jim