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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Lost Roadie, Jan 30, 2013.
Unless you need to start a campfire in the rain...
I pick up my new bike tmrw!!
Here's the install for the Flatlands tail rack if anyone's interested, very easy to get right the first time when drilling with the included hardware.
Remove rear plastic, install pointy bolts into the subframe, place tail piece over them, press down to clearly mark where the holes you need to drill are to be located, drill away, removes pointy bolts and install rack with included hardware.
The directions are clear and it takes only a few minutes, seems pretty foolproof.
We're found the Flatlands rack to be just perfect providing tie down points in just the right places for carry stuff for the longer rides while not adding too much weight and looking minimal when empty.
Lost Rider: My old Husky TE610 had a similar arrangement for rack attachment, but your pix show where those mounting holes are on the CRF....they were out in the open on the 610. There are significant advantages to your rack over the "manracks" rack I have for my CRF. The rack plate on my husky was thick birch plywood. Did you mention that drilling big holes thru the fender was easier using step drills that are very inexpensive at harbor freight?
I just ordered my tool tube. I wondered where you had gotten that and how you put it on.
What kind of saddle bags are you using?
He's got the Giant Loop MoJavi on there
I wouldn't be too keen on fitting a tool tube, I put one on my BM and it didn't last the first dirt road I took it on. Got home with 2 bits of plastic and no BMW tool kit. Seriously pissed orf.
That sucks! So you lost everything then? That would certainly be very disappointing.
Hmm, maybe you didn't mount it securely, I had this same tube mounted on my 800gs for tens of thousands of miles of rough terrain. Many many people on this forum have and do use this exact tool tube with no issues. Sucks you lost you stuff, I think your case is rare though, it takes a lot of sudden force to break one of those tubes in my experience.
Like he said, giant loop Mojave, with the tool pouch cut off . That's a Kreiga US 10 strapped to the Mojave and a wolfman Rollie on the seat. Tent poles are on the outside on the right also strapped to e Mojave. Good to go to camp in winter temps off the bike with this pack.
Mobile ADV Fix Complete
Has anyone mounted aux lights on their LRP? If so where did you mount them
Finn, have you gotten around to messing with the Scott's damper?
I have not, it's not been in the budget yet.... soon hopefully.
I have not, but when I do I'll mount them where the OEM turn signals are and use HDB integrated signals instead.
B installed a PDM 60 power distribution module (and got another to put on his DRZ) to power the heated grips and the GPS. It has 6 circuits with circuit breakers--no fuses!
Right now it's on the left side of the bike but he thinks he'll move it more inside (and protected) once he removes the smog canister.
Here's the pdm installed with the ignition key turned on (to power the heated grips).
Clutch replacement DIY.
Long story short, a friend fried the clutch while learning how to ride off road and in sand.... luckily loosening up the clutch cable gave us just enough friction to get home from Death Valley, with the clutch slipping in high gears for the last 20 miles.
After some research I found that EBC makes replacement friction pads and springs for the CRF250L, available locally direct from manufacturer but I have to place the order though this company, then pick up at warehouse:
Part # CK1313 for the friction plates and #CSK188 for the springs, which they say are 10% stiffer than OEM.
The steel plates are looking fine and are not warped so I wont be replacing them.
I'll be going by the warehouse to pick them up later today, $65 for plates, $10 for springs.
Here's a DIY of getting the clutch apart, it's pretty straightforward and took me about a half hour to get it open.
Drain oil, drain coolant through drain plug on intake, not much coolant will come out until you loosen the cap on the radiator, then it sprays out all over the place 2-3 feet out from the bike.
disconnect clutch cable, I used a screwdriver to push the lever back to slide it out
Remove brake lever, kick plate, and brake switch bracket.
Remove bracket that holds clutch cable, then oil tube or whatchamacallit.
Remove bolts holding engine case on, in a crisscross patten, Rotate clutch lever counterclockwise to disengage lifter arm spindle while removing the cover.
Remove bolts holding clutch plates in crisscross fashion and then slide out clutch plates.
And for you folks who like to stress/obsess about keeping the LRP tip top, I found this screen hidden behind the cover with plenty of metal flakes and what looked like pieces of case sealant from the factory. I guess there's a pre filter in our bikes.
here's the new springs vs the old ones, I decided to keep the old ones in to make the clutch lever pull easier for Nancy.
In reassembly I found that the EBC kit comes with all the same size plates, the OEM plates has one with a smaller inner diameter and a couple of spacers that go inside the smaller platethat's the first plate in line. I removed these spacers and went ahead with the install, the clutch feels great and have had no issues. I'm not sure why those spacers are there with the smaller single plate, but from the looks of it it wont make any difference, the new full size plate is still resting on the smooth clutch basket.
Be very careful when tightening the bolts that hold on the springs, they are very soft and easily broken. I was better for me in the end to use feel of my hand vs a torque wrench that has not been calibrated lately.
The old and slightly smaller clutch plate;
the rings I removed:
New plates getting soaked before install, as specified in the directions:
Don't forget to change the oil @ 600 miles just like when new, the contamination from bedding in the new clutch plates is one of the main reasons for that first oil change.
Good luck, and stop burning out your clutch!
Would changing to the stiffer springs be a suitable option for preventing future problems?