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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Lost Roadie, Jan 30, 2013.
13t front sprocket. :
That 13t front sprocket is on my list.
Zeta make good hand guards with fold out mirrors.
So i was planning on posting much of anything atleast untill i was done with my trip but lots or rain and some flooding has grounded me here in Missouri for the day.
Im taking a pretty long trip from the 4 corners in Colorado all the way back to new york city on the CRF. with some decent detours along the way.
her is Eugene in all there glory. by the continental divide
What ive done is basically just add
wolfman luggage racks (both side and top)
universal windscreen from Amazon (spitfire i believe)
Zeta bar risers and bark busters
Drc replacement break light/license plate mount.
Seat concepts saddle.
An for luggage i used a wolfmen dry duffle medium (about 40L) and two pelican 1430 cases (under 20L) i got on the cheap.
Other than that the bike is completely stock as i got it.
I've got just under 3k on the odometer right now and 1k of that has been the last 3 days riding.
My only huge want (besides the personal ergonomic stuff like larger foot pegs and sheepskin) for the bike would be a larger gas tank. the 2 gallon fillups are really cutting into my travel time. An i really dont think the IMS 3 gallon would be much of an improvement for the cost. What i would really like some one to make would be a 5ish gallon tank like IMS makes for the WR.
Other than that the bike has sailed along with no problems and does pretty decent in the dirt considering the weight.
That's a nice looking rig!
Like stated those are HDB hand guards, virtually indestructible and worth the investment IMO. I've broken various other brand guards, namely the mounts that clamp onto the bars type so in the end the HDB would have be cheaper to start with.
Add in the integrated mirrors and turn signals and it kills 3 birds with one stone plus having a place to put switches or other doodads is the bonus.
Hand guards, and a skid plate are a given, along with some sort of folding mirrors since the OEM ones have a good chance of getting broken or breaking other things like the perch or twisting the levers out of the protection of the guards and breaking them when you go down. Putting on 1 1/8 handlebars using adaptors is also a good idea since the OEM bars are thin and weak. We use ROX risers to adapt from 7/8 to 1 1/8, which also puts the bars in a far more comfortable position for standing, what you should be doing when riding dirt. We have Protaper KX High bars, ordered with the HDB kit with the inserts already mounted. Lots of choices for bars though, and the HDB kit comes with what you need to mount the bar end inserts.
A 13t sprocket also helps quite a bit for trail riding without making the unusable on the highway Rim locks are wise if you want to air down the tires (like you should) when on dirt. Air back up when on pavement to help your tire last longer. Be sure to balance the wheels though once you add rim locks, highway riding can become unstable or annoying with vibrations from the unbalanced weight.
A radiator guard is also a wise investment both to keep from getting stranded on the trail or a costly replacement of the Radiator.
As a new DS rider inevitably the bike will get dropped so besides getting it setup to fit YOU (risers, bars, seat, what ever makes you comfy) some protection and changes to the weak points that will take the brunt of the hits is good in the long run instead of breaking stuff.
It seems like I listed a lot, but with these investments to the weak/vulnerable points of the bike it will be as strong as it can get and take lots of use, most bikes need the similar protection so it's not really a Honda problem, just the way it is when it comes to DS riding. This comes from my experiences and mistakes in the past as I learned what I/we needed, of course YRMV.
The fender bag is a Moose racing one, you'll want to cut a few knotches in the fender to keep it from sliding forward. I can post up more pics if needed. Besides a tube patch kit I keep a 21" tube (can be used in rear wheel temporarily) and a Slime Top Off air pump along with some Motion Pro tire spoons, one of which is the 24mm combo wrench to remove the rear tire, the other is a 12mm combo to loosen the pinch bolts on the forks. Add in a 17mm wrench and standard tire lever to complete the kit. I also carry an Enduro Star Trail Stand to make things easier while fixing a flat on the trail since many places we ride wont have wood or even rocks to prop up the bike.
You'll need to swap the plug on the Slime pump, a very common way would be to get a SAE harness wired direct to the battery and then get another SAE plug in the towing section of any autoparts store to put on the pump, cutting the cigarette plug off. You'll also be able to use a battery tender or jump start your or other bikes through this plug if needed.
Having the right tools is only half the battle though, knowing how to use them is the other important part. Once you get your kit sorted I recommend researching the how-to's that are all over ADV and find a method that works for you, practicing with the tools you carry on the trail at home is time well spent, it gets much faster with practice. I change all our tires with my trail tools at home all the time to improve my skills and test out my kit regularly. It's easier to have a dealer change them, but nothing is learned that way. Changing a tube/tire in 10 minutes becomes easy.
Don't forget proper dirt riding protection for yourself while you're at it if you haven't already, lots of threads in Equipment to scour...
Awesome to see folks out traveling on the LRP, I'm envious!
Looking forward to more info on how the whole trip went for you, I agree a much bigger tank is needed for ADV riding, 3 gallons isn't going to cut it, 5 would be great. Ride on and stay safe!
I have to agree with Lost Rider. Doing your own maintenance is a great idea. I'm sitting at around 6k miles right now, the weather has been less than stellar around my area so I've taken the opportunity to tear the my bike down, recheck the valve clearance, service linkage/swing arm, check seals and everything else the manual recommends at the 5K service. Here's what she looks like right now while I'm waiting for new valve shims to arrive, please excuse the mess, I'd rather ride than clean my garage:
I've mounted and balanced my own tires, getting ready to replace the front one if anyone has any recommendations, I've got a D606 on the back right now.
The HDB hand guards are top notch, I ordered the folding mirrors with mine and couldn't be happier. My bars are CR High Bend.
While going over the bike I noticed that I bent the lower portion of the radiator, not sure if you can tell in the picture. I'll be placing an order for a guard in the next couple days. Aside from that, everything seems to be holding up fairly well. I've saved several hundred dollars doing all the work myself and have a good understanding of how to fix the bike should the unfortunate happen while out on the trail.
Being self sufficient is the goal for me, I don't want to have to rely on anyone or be a pain in anyone's ass when I'm riding with a group.
Right on Cory!
You nailed it on the head besides saving money gaining intimate knowledge of your bike is priceless when stuck on the trail!
I need to take the rear end off and grease it up too...
Callison MT-21 I love it in combo with the D606 rear JMO.
What are your opinions about choosing the Little Red for a big one, a long long overland trip? For months and for thousands of miles away from home? Like going from Europe to the whole tour of Central Asia, from Siberia and Mongolia, to the Stans, to India and Nepal and back ?
Apart from adding all necessary farkles, the main things in question here are ease of DIY maintenance and reliability in the long run.
I've had my LRP for about 5 months now and have right at 4K miles. I haven't ridden a motorcycle in about 16 years. I grew up on dirt bikes and always wanted to get a dual sport. I was looking to get a WR250R but I found the crf250l and I've been very happy with it.
Upgrades to date:
Pro Moto Billet Rack
Pelican 1450 (picked up used but in new condition)
EJK fuel programer
1 gallon rotopax
speedoDRD (bought havent installed yet.)
Here are a few pics of recent trips:
This past week we escaped the heat here in west Texas and headed to the lincoln national forest. The family and I camped and I did a bit of trail riding. Mrs Tbone didn't get to mad when my quick trail ride turned into 4hr adventure . The bike did great and it now has a few new battle scars. I was glad I finally put the 13t sprocket on. I was reluctant to install because i didn't want to reduce the top speed. The speed limit on almost all roads where I live is 75, if you're not doing 80 you will get ran over. After the install there really wasn't much of a decrease in top speed. I'm still able to cruise around at 75 to 80.
Hayne's canyon vista - you can see the white sands from here. I was surprised to how well the LRP did on the sunspot highway with all the tight turns.
FSR 90 southwest of cloudcroft:
Alamo Peak trail t109: This trail was a bit tough but I managed to make it down without to much trouble. The trail had many steep declines which I thought would make impressive photos. Somehow pictures do not show how crazy some of the trails got or maybe I'm just a pussy.
I did eat it here:
I almost made it up this trail but I kept getting stuck in ruts on the very steep inclines and decided to turn around. I found out that you can get pretty winded man handling a 300lb bike at 9000ft elevation.
Overall it was an amazing trip! As a noob advrider I learned quite a bit and look forward to riding this bike for years to come. I also want to thank everyone for all the info that you have shared regarding this bike.
Nice shots. I know just what you mean about the camera not conveying the grades well, or showing how deep the ruts and such are. Great area to ride in by the looks of it.
Like you, I am new to riding on dirt, so I'm always riding the learning curve . Sure is satisfying though!
That's some good info, LostRider. Going to keep that to refer to. I really need to practice changing a tire, or putting a new tube in, etc. My only assurance now is I carry a can of repair foam made for tube tires that I got from Honda. Not much confidence in that.
My only experience with tubes and tires are when I used to cycle (road bike) 40 miles per day. Always carried a new tube and tire irons. Sure frees up the mind to know you're prepared. Must practice!
This is with regard to Lost Rider's valve adjustment input.
He said: "Insert feeler gauge between rocker arm and shim, the specs call for .16mm - plus or minus .03mm variable.
My exhaust valve turned out to be @ .30mm, my intake was @ .15mm
The intake is still in spec and won't need to be adjusted, but the exhaust would. "
I am concerned because the street version of this engine uses larger gaps on the exhaust valves than on the intake valves. Additionally, because of the tight quarters, it is possible to be measuring the space from the collar around the shim to the cam lobe.
Here are a couple of links:
And for this one, see Item #25 which quotes the shim measurements:
The last 3 pages of this thread center upon the clearances:
I hope that this is useful. I really am concerned if the 250R engine uses different shim spacings and the 250L engine uses the same clearances for intake and exhaust. Can someone confirm that from a shop manual?
Disclaimer: I ride neither of these 250 cc bikes; mine is considerably older.
First of all just love this thread and would like to breat a little life into it. Thanks Lost
New owner of a LRP. I bought this bike to "Adventure Travel". I know all the naysayers that preach it's too slow, it's too heavy, blah, blah, blah. I've got a few miles under my belt and I can honestly say the Honda ticks almost all my requirements for a serious over-lander. My top 5 requirements are:
1. Reliability. My research hasn't show any Achilles heal after being on the market for 2 years! Hey, it's a Honda
2. Maintenance. Simple design that is user friendly. A bike that can be self maintained. Worldwide parts available
3. Fuel Range. Need a range of at least 300 km. Very close with IMS tank, hopefully someone will come out with a 4 gal.
4. Ergonomics. This bike fits me very well, I even get along with the stock seat with a sweet cheeks.
5. Weight. This is relative, but compared to 450lb 650 the little girls feels like a featherweight.
I'm going to set this bike up for RTW trip I'm planning for 2016. It's going to be a very inexpensive build. A few of the items that will need attention is the rear shock.
-respring the rear shock ~$100
-windscreen ~$00 have an ol spitfire laying around somewhere
-luggage ~ $00 use my GL fandango and Great Basin, already fitted them up, also Wolfman tank panniers.
-Dobech or Bazzaz fuel controller ~$200-$350.
- all the other bits like tool box, handguards, gps mounts, bar risers etc i have laying around so no cost!
Really look forward to tearing this bike down, getting to know it and putting some serious miles on it. Anyone for Mexico next fall?
This fall in Namibia
The LRP wearing the same luggage from the Namibia trip.
It sure did! Great ride!
Hello all in here
First of all I would like to thank the one that started this thread and those who are contributing With helpful tip and advice about the Crf.
By the way my native tounge is not English so please bear over with me if my Language sometimes isnt 100 % correct.
Newbie here and I dont own a Crf yet but I am seriously thinking about buying one for a long Overland tour next year. And I am about to do some research on the Crf and when I found this site I thought it was a good place to start.
Even though I dont own a Crf I have been riding one for more than 4000 km in Northern Thailand earlier this year. And I was really hugely impressed by this bike, how versatile and smooth it is. I currently own a Tenere 660 and have earlier owned Transalp, Triumph Tiger, Dominator amongst others.
Next year I plan to Overland from Europe to SE-Asia and when I rode the Crf it struck me that this must be a very good bike for this purpose, with some mods of course.
First of all - any views upon using this bike for a Overland tour?
Luggage - I havent found many options here.
A decent rack (rear and side) I found one - the Derali rack. Is that a good one?
I also read that Wolfman produced one but have stopped the Production already and thus isnt available now, is that correct?
Are there any other rack (side and rear) on the marked that fits the Crf?
Are there any hard panniers that will fit this Derali rack?
Are there any hard/alloy panniers that suits the Crf and fits any rack that that fits the Crf?
What about soft panniers on the Derali rack, will for example a Wolfman Rocky Mountain fit the Derali rack or any other rack that fits the Crf?
What about Giant Loop on the Derali rack or other racks that fit?
Will a set of Siskiyou panniers and a Fort Rock top rack fit a Derali or other rack or will this be way too much on this small bike?
Rear suspension - What are Your opinions about an upgrading of the rear suspension, is it really necessary?
Ok - I think that is enough for this my first posting here, but I hope that its ok that I come back With some more questions.....
Thanks in advance!
Regards from Dodraugen
Although painful, read all 450 pages of http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=22877261#post22877261
I own a CRF and have followed the above thread from the very beginning....I have never heard of a Derali rack. Refer to page 302 #4522 for the Wolfman CRF side racks...I'd be very unhappy if they are discontinued...BUT...Wolfman did not make them...somewhere I have the info on who made them...but I gotta dig....maybe someone here will know for sure all the details. There are many rack builders....just plow thru and find what meets your needs. I have one of the manracks....there are many choices. Fuel range is my best guess of where you should concentrate your efforts....as 150 miles is the absolute max you'll get out of a tank....Rotopax are good products for carrying extra fuel. My personal opinion is that specialty parts are nice...but may strand you in the middle of nowhere....but if you are a big guy and plan to carry a lot of luggage, a stiffer new spring can be adapted to the stock shock...look around page 202 #3027 on what is possible....race Tech can provide front fork improvements....also note that there are possibilities to improve power and gearing for your ride
Thanks for answering me Ed@Ford.
I know the other thread - I am at page 100 now......
Anyhow the luggage and rear+siderack seem to me to be the biggest problem. Have seen many nice picks of this bike but none with a decent rear+siderack and panniers hard or soft.
The Denali rack I mentioned is this which I found at Crfonly:
But I dont know what kind of panniers that will fit to that one.
And in my eyes it doesnt look very good either.
So any luggage advice for overlanding will be really well appriciated.....
Yeas fuel range is a major issue on the Crf, especially if using the bike as a overlander. Are there any other aftermarket option than the IMF one?
I understand that there is a whole lot of remedies for getting more power out of the engine, but if I wanted more Power I would probably buy a bigger bike such as a 650 (I already own a Tenere 660)
If I am going to purchase a Crf for overlanding I will probably keep the engine stock for the sake of fuel consume and relyability. As you say a lot of special parts can be nice but if they tend to stop workin in the middle of nowhere its a serious problem.
My weight with helmet, boots and gear will be almost 100 kilos and then maybe add 20-30 kilos of luggage. So the question is: Will it be neccesary or advisabkle to change the stock rear suspension for overlanding use of this bike?
I'm setting my CRF for over landing. My main concerns are fuel, and the suspension. As far as luggage goes I'm going to avoid racks and go with the Kriega Overlander 30, Kriega US 20, my GL Diablo tans bag and Wolfman expedition tank panniers. This setup will give me a bit over 80L of storage with minimal weight. I am trying to keep gear and weight at a minimum. I agree with you. This little piggy will make an ideal world crosser!