The KTM 500 XC-W Thread.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Geek, Mar 16, 2012.

  1. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    David: I can tell you ride @ Meunster instead of Colorado... a skid plate is purchase #1 in the rocks we have around here :D

    Who makes that seat? Looks pretty sharp!

    :freaky

    p.s. how well does that diamond plate headlight work? :rofl
    #21
  2. ABYSS

    ABYSS KTM

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    I have a skid plate it is just off for oil cange and cleaning up. The seat is from XPS I had it done is BLK suede. HUGE inprovement. It is comprable to Renazco but it only too two weeks. Sorry James I couldnt do four months again.

    RE: P.S.

    I thought I had the cropped out all the way I guess I didnt check it very well. So Ill go ahead and spill the beans just a bit.

    The diamond plate is a "Work in progress" base for the lights it bolts directly to the triples with four bolts, so there is no additional clamps or gadgets. My lighting choice I am still going to keep close to the vest at the moment until I have tested what I am working on. But I will say that I am going down a path that I havent seen before. The total AMP usage per beam is 2.2 Amps and when its on highbeam I may have to wear sunscreen and sunglasses when its on. I have checked with local state inspection facility and provided the detailed light specifications and was told will pass anual vehicle inspection.

    Well see, I plan to be functional this weekend.
    #22
  3. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

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    Thanks for the info!! I never really felt that the 610 was a powerhouse, just enough power...nothing to write home about. I compared the specs between the 610 and these new 500's, pretty much three main differences on the 500, it has 1/2" less wheelbase...yeah, I thought it'd be much shorter too, 1/2" more rear suspension travel and it's 60 pounds lighter...that's what matters. :deal

    Back to stalking the 500 threads...thanks!!

    :beer
    #23
  4. jtoc

    jtoc Adventurer

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    i can't help too much with the street legal stuff but i will be doing the same to my xc-w in early may. i would do it now but im going to baja in just under a month and don't like the idea of possibly not getting my CO title in hand b4 the trip. i have licensed dirtbikes in the past but i think they've instituted some new laws since like the vin verification with troopers only. used to be you could get the local boys to sign off on it.

    i do like running a trials tire for a few real tech trips throughout the summer. i know the pirelli is dot approved so that takes care of the rear but what r u going to put on the front? i dont want to blow $75 on a tire i will never actually use except for the licensing. maybe the front i settle on for baja will be dot approved and i could use that.

    as for the protective stuff for the bike again i would put the Hyde Racing skidplate on. that material and mount is bulletproof.

    for the seat i've swapped the stocker for the enduro engineering tall soft seat. i'm only 5'11" so the tall seems like a bad idea but in reality it sinks pretty well when you sit on it and it is very comfy. this seat also holds me in position very well as it molds around your butt (which is great as long as you start off in the right position!) EE makes a normal height soft seat but it is a different animal and not nearly as soft.

    regarding the tame low end you are talking about for tech riding you might find the map switch to work well for the least $$. (providing it actually works on our bike. my buddy had one on his 500 and swore he could feel the difference but took it off as he was always running stock setting anyhow).

    i need a horn but want it to be small and inexpensive (good luck, i know) as i prob wont run it often. i'd be interested in what you decide on. also the brake light switch, i've had bad luck with the rear brake/banjo bolt type switches breaking and losing pressure. i've heard there are switches avail for the front brake, any experience?

    the jd tuner sounds like a decent buy but i havent found a reason to blow the money as i couldn't imagine needing more/richer power. Is anyone running one?? results??

    i would like the shorai battery as well but the stocker is so strong and the bike starts immediately when i hit the magic button, maybe next winter. the shorai website says to turn something on the bike on for a little time during cold weather starting b4 hitting the starter and it will perform much better. but my headlight doesn't work with the bike off sooo.. maybe kick bike first time on cold mornings?
    #24
  5. theantipaul

    theantipaul Reforming Neandertal

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    Been talking with Geek over the last few weeks about throttle cams and am thinking this may be the answer for me, does anyone have any experience with them and this bike? Motion Pro and G2 make them, any one else, any thoughts?
    #25
  6. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    I'm going to order a G2 this week with both a 200 and a 400 cam. When we get playing up @ lefthand in those gnarly verticals.. I want to take as much twitch out as I can :eek1

    :freaky
    #26
  7. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Dammit David! :ddog

    I keep looking at this photo and drooling. You are going to cost me a bunch of money

    [​IMG]
    #27
  8. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    So I did get my plate :clap

    [​IMG]


    I'll try and finish my write up on all the stuff I did here shortly.
    #28
  9. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Rear brake light:

    Super easy to do... but not obvious!

    When you pop the right rear fairing off you find this:
    [​IMG]

    Looks simple right? Looks like you should be able to plug your brake switch into that brown/white connector and be good to go? NOPE. If you connect that brown and white wire you get to locate your fuses and replace the one that says "headlight" :rofl

    For your brake light to come on you actually want to connect the green/white wire to the white wire with your switch
    [​IMG]

    Since the green wire doesn't go to anything on the XCW I just cut it off and then put a female barrel connector. Same for the white that goes to that secondary plug.. cut it off and put a barrel on it too.

    [​IMG]

    ...another angle
    [​IMG]


    Here's the pressure switch I used:
    [​IMG]

    Super easy to install.. you just replace the banjo bolt for the rear brake with this pressure switch
    [​IMG]

    and then I routed the wire forward and around instead of up the rear subframe just to give it more clearance from exhaust heat
    [​IMG]

    ...and then simply plug into the green/white & white. Doesn't matter which way.. you are just closing the circuit when you stop on the brake (which puts pressure on the pressure switch).

    [​IMG]
    #29
  10. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Back to the highwaydirtbikes stuff....

    As posted, here's my new topclamp with the switches.
    [​IMG]

    ...but before I can mount it I need to put the risers on the bike.

    Check these out... the design is spot on. It is incredibly strong because it uses four bolts instead of two! :eek1

    The bottom of the riser is keyed and a perfect precise fit.
    [​IMG]

    ...notice that there are 2 holes?
    [​IMG]

    The HDB setup uses BOTH sets of holes! (I think they have some sort of patent related to this?)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then what happens up top is the front bolts go through the risers just like stock... but the rear bolts actually go through the risers and through the top clamp bolting the entire thing into one super-strong part
    [​IMG]

    The bars then go up into the risers.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You can see there is also an integrated steering damper mount at the bottom.
    #30
  11. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Here is how the top clamp bolts to the billet computer protector

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    ....then let the wiring begin....

    First you need to have a plan :D

    [​IMG]

    ...because the idea was to "do things right" - using color coordinated wires for each function
    [​IMG]

    Shrink wrap each connection...
    [​IMG]

    then re-enforce wrap where there is a possible friction point
    [​IMG]

    ...and then sleeve the wires and shrink one more layer over top
    [​IMG]

    which means it is now ready to mount on the bike
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Leaving us with this nice color coded pigtail to work with :deal
    [​IMG]
    #31
  12. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Next we need to run a power source from the battery at the back of the bike...

    First we fish a conduit sleeve to the back and run a red & black wire in it.. shrink wrapping the end.

    [​IMG]

    We want to have this power source fused in case of a short.
    Fish the two wires through a fuse holder and solder/crimp the connectors

    [​IMG]

    Lock them into the waterproof housing
    [​IMG]

    insert fuse...
    [​IMG]

    put the cap on and mount
    [​IMG]

    Now we are ready to put the two shrink wrapped eyelets on the battery
    [​IMG]

    ...to be continued... it'll all start to come together!
    [​IMG]

    ...but first I'm going to have to rewire how the thermostat works :patch

    KTM wiring = :becca

    [​IMG]

    ...to be continued...
    #32
  13. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Still to come.. the horn, etc...


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    So have no XCW owners tried the fuel map switch yet?

    :lurk
    #33
  14. heetseeker

    heetseeker Hopelessly addicted

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    Wilton CA
    OUTSTANDING!

    :lurk
    #34
  15. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Have any pics of it? :lurk
    #35
  16. toddler

    toddler Unpronouncible

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    Just saw this thread. Nicely done Geek.

    I'm up around 35 hours on my street legal 500xc-w and 825 miles.

    I too have all the awesome HDB stuff, but instead use most of the stock electrics. I put in an earthX Lithium battery. Made here in CO. I'll be putting one in my 950 too. Great product. Cranks well in the 20's, good enough for me.

    I have the ignition map switch and basically keep it on the "mild" setting for two reasons. The bike has so much power and I find it easier to control corner exits in the "mild" mode and I can get 80 miles per tank.

    If I am not concerned with range I'll bump up the setting. The bike just plain rips and feels very light. At times it could use an opera singer attached to the front wheel to help with steering.

    I rode a 350xc-w over the weekend and it is a much better singletrack bike and I felt I could ride it faster on desert singletrack, but it would not cut it for long technical dualsport rides for me. The 500 will easily do long distance dualsport rides in comfort.

    [This is for you Larry] Comparing the 500 to the te610 in terms of gearing. For technical riding I gear my 610 14/48. The 610 can chug down low much better but is no match for the 500 in the faster stuff and in regards to suspension. It isn't even a valid comparison. The 500 will allow such bigger hits without getting all wonky on you. Plus, the adjustment can give you plush in rocks and stability in big sand whoops. The 610 is just survival mode if you push it, the 500's limits are so far out their I will never see them. The 500 could use a lower gear for very technical stuff, but the clutch is good so you just abuse it. The 610 is less tiring than the 500, unless it is slow technical riding or fast with big hits, then the 500 all the way. The 500 has a higher top speed with its stock gearing, even in mild mode.

    I ran out of gas again this past weekend. I've run the tank dry on this bike around 7 times now. I'm dying for the bigger tank and then I can replace my 610 if I can get 150 miles out of this thing. Some folks say it is bad to run FI dry but I've done it so many times and I have not seen any issues. YET:D

    I'll be watching this thread. Keep it up Geek.
    #36
  17. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

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    I always ran 14/45 on my 610 because of the super low first and it'd top out at 102 mph loaded.

    I can see how more power and less weight can hide a taller first gear, like the XR650R's that I've owned.

    Thanks for the info!!

    Bike is looking awesome, Geek!!! :clap

    Hey Geek, to save yourself some trouble after many miles...cut a little chunk of vacuum tube, drop it into the cap for the fuse so that pressure is applied to the fuse when you snap the cap on.
    #37
  18. pfb

    pfb Riding, not skiing.

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    This is going to be another epic Geek build thread! :thumb

    A couple of questions and comments...

    Question:
    • Where did you get the soft plastic insulated bullet connectors? I haven't found any local sources. I know Eastern Beaver sells them... I guess I should just order a set. Same question with fuse holder. You can get waterproof ones locally, but not as nice as the one you are using.

    • Did you figure out what your stock spring rate is and decide what spring you are going to go with?

    Comments:
    • Super clean job on the electrical wiring! If you are not using it already, try some of the epoxy lined shrink tubing. Great stuff, especially for exposed connections like on a bike. JB Saunders has it, and surprisingly, Harbor Freight also has an assorted size box that is super cheap when it is on sale (which is often).

    • A couple of things I didn't see on your "to-do" list. You probably are planning on them anyway... Scotts stabilizer (definitely!) and a bigger tank (definitely for the rides you like to take!)

    • I really like having a remote switch near my left hand for the 'mode' function of the stock KTM computer. The up/down trip odo buttons aren't all that useful unless you are doing a roadbook ride or some sort of enduro event, but being able to switch between the KTM computer modes easily is pretty nice. I'm probably in the minority, but I really like the stock KTM computer and even prefer it to the trailtech models. It's that unused four wire connector coming off the bottom of the computer. Colors seem to change every so often, but on many the below scheme is correct. Good luck finding a mating connector though unless you buy the tripmaster switch from KTM ($63 bucks list price!) I chop mine off and use a molex connector.
      green = ground
      yellow = mode/O
      blue = up/+
      brown = down/-​


    • If you get the bike set up right, I don't think you need a fan override. Plus that circuit is always hot, though I guess the 500's now have a timed relay that kills all accessory power after something like 15 minutes?

    • I've run metal skidplates on all my previous dirt bikes, but I've heard good things about the KTM heavy plastic ones. There are pretty beefy frame rails underneath that will protect the bike (and the plate) against big hits, so it's mostly to deflect and distribute the impact of small and medium size rocks. Less weight, less noise, I'm going to try the one that came stock on my Six Days this season and see how it does.

    • This is what I understand about the mapping switch... Before you can adjust the mapping, you need to make sure the 'competition' map is loaded into the ECU. Then you have three mapping choices, one of which is the default map that you currently have. Being able to flatten out (detune) the power on the bike would probably be nice for technical riding. So really the questions are 1) how can you verify what ECU map is loaded into your computer, 2) verify that the competition map can be loaded if it is not, and 3) will FayMeyer (or perhaps a more KTM specific shop like Elite) load the competition map onto your ECU? I'd give Trailtech, Jeff at Slavens Racing, or Chip at Munn racing a call and see if they can verify. Also take a look at this Trailtech map switch page wich discusses it a bit. (EDIT: I see that Toddler added the map switch to his bike. Todd, did you have to load the competition map onto your CPU first?)
    #38
  19. toddler

    toddler Unpronouncible

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    I was told the competition map was put in before I took delivery.
    #39
  20. dvwalker

    dvwalker Working to ride

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    subscribed mr Geek, this looks like a top notch build job in the making. Looks like a top notch shop space as well.

    I tore open my brand spanking new (350) EXC on Sunday, appears to be about at the same step as you.

    here's the exc wire mess up front to compare, not too bad, no jumpers...
    [​IMG]

    looks like similar hdb stabilizer setup from paul (minus anodized), 1 5/8" rise over stock.
    [​IMG]

    yep, advantage goes to xc-w model, no need to remove any of the emission stuff. Although charcoal canister and bits came off in very short order. SAS removal is another story.
    [​IMG]
    #40