The Motorcycle Chronicles of Jackie & Valentino... The Southern Episode

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by V@lentino, Sep 20, 2013.

  1. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver
    I just left Angela at the airport, she is off on Thursday or Friday for Seattle, it was cheaper than Vancouver by a few hundred bucks.

    See you on the dark side in a couple of month
  2. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver
    She would not go for it Steve, she's more the type:

    "Where you go I go, If you fall I fall...." you know the type right? :nod

    Hope your ride north is going well
  3. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver
    All of us that ride, that long waited trip to Baja, the TAT, a week in the Rockies, a weekend with some buddies to that place we only know about, an afternoon ride through the fall colours, around the world in six years or more. All of us that ride come to a point where it ends, when you put the side stand down with a heavy heart, you let out a long sight, and deep down inside you know it has come to and end.

    The melancholy sets in, the images flash back, your inner voice is strong, you smile and often cry... Wow it was an amazing time, what a ride it was, wish I could go on, just a bit more, just a bit more, just a little bit more...

    Today was that kind of a day, the last day. Rode Angela 40 km from the hostel to Ezeiza, last bit of lane splitting, last Southern American stretch so she could be palletized and shrunk, and strapped and bubble wrapped, and scanned and tagged. Sent deep in the belly of a Boieng 747, where in 8 hours, at .85 Mach, Alt 30,000 ft, she would fly the continent North, the Americas back North, way up there. 30476 km in 5 months and 21 days reduced and compressed to a few hours in the air.

    Ainsi va la vie.

    The last 3000 km from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires, alone in my helmet, my thoughts only interrupted by the wind or some favourite tune. Alone with the winds and the horizons; I had the chance to do something I never really did on our last long trip; let the end seep in and away, in and away at a pace that granted me time and distance to realize that, for now, its over. Again my reality is about to change. Change is good, it reminds you that you're alive, just like love and friendship, just like hate and sorrow, just like a smile. As the wind hollered and my recurring riding cramp beckoned me to loosen my grip on the handlebar, despite the continuously unrelenting winds, despite the unceasing gusts that wafted me without mercy into the incoming lane, I smiled. Not a grin, or a smirk, I beamed, simpered, laughed my head off; life is good and it can only get better. No matter what the future holds the ride is mine, will be mine to cherish for the rest of my days....

    It went something like this



    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    Don't worry now that I am chronologically dead, I can randomly go back and take you through what was missed between San Pedro de Atacama and Buenos Aires.


    Write you soon...​
  4. AdventurePoser

    AdventurePoser Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2001
    Oddometer:
    1,972
    Location:
    in The Cloud
    A very worthy ride report...great pix and words too!

    From the beginning:
    [​IMG]
  5. ElReyDelSofa

    ElReyDelSofa Desubicado

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2008
    Oddometer:
    129
    Location:
    Salt Lake, Cuenca y La Union Ecuador
    René,

    Happy for you to see the journey coming to a completion, I am sure you are planning your next one already. Can't wait to hear what it will be.

    I just looked up the etymology of your name, René; to quote Wikipedia "born again or reborn in French". A very appropriate name for you I think.

    Looking forward to more of your thoughts on the journey, and my only remaining question is; What will I do at work now, that I no longer have your ride report to follow?

    Suerte,

    Martín :clap
  6. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    12,267
    Location:
    Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
    Well done Jackie and Valentino :clap

    Don't forget Rene, you are welcome to come stay and ride with us when everything gets settled and you need a little trip, or even just a haircut.
  7. CharlestonADV

    CharlestonADV I do my own stunts!

    Joined:
    May 30, 2011
    Oddometer:
    570
    Location:
    Charleston, SC
    Wonderful ride report.:thumb:thumb
  8. Motardca

    Motardca Motardca

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    21
    Location:
    Okanagen BC
    Rene,
    we could all meet in Silver Star for a weekend of fun and riding, I have a big enough place for an ADV gathering.
    Nik
  9. Blader54

    Blader54 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,215
    Congrats on completing the trip! The journey perhaps continues? I'm looking forward to your next posts, as I am always interested to learn of the feelings and reactions long-distance riders experience when they re-integrate into the "real" world.
  10. YetiHunter

    YetiHunter 2 Wheels & Flyrod

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2014
    Oddometer:
    96
    Location:
    Vancouver - Close to the line

    This sounds like a great idea.
  11. canadianmoose

    canadianmoose Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2012
    Oddometer:
    90
    Happy to see you finished. It was great following along!

    kyle
  12. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver
    Thank God there is much of the world we are yet to discover on two wheels, I can predict an eventual Eastern episode :evil


    Ohhh we'll show up all right... Do we need to call first?








    Thanks all of you for tagging along, looks like the Vancouverites are slowly coming out of the woodwork, must be the nice weather you guys are having, time to take the motos out :nod


    Suerte for you and Trevor, enjoy the rest of your trip







    It is never easy, as I mentioned in my earlier post, I think riding long days in Patagonia by myself was very therapeutic, and it afforded me plenty of time to clear my head and redirect my focus.
  13. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver
    [​IMG]




    While in Ushuaia I met a couple from Buenos Aires, each riding their own bike, a Honda and a Yamaha 250. We stayed at the same hostal and immediately hit it off. I spent the last week hanging out with them and other Bonaerenses y Porteños bikers;



    [​IMG]


    And let's just say that they are way past Tango.

    [​IMG]


    Of course Valentino had to show off and cook some pasta, tonight it was alla Puttanesca



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    Che... Que buena onda, esta noche me siento màs como uno Argentino que nadie.

    Tomorrow I take the big jet airplane and head back home.


    I'll revert soon with a post on Santiago de Chile...​
  14. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver
    [​IMG]


    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/iKYLd1i7lTQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>



    [​IMG]



    To even begin to understand the current struggles of South America, one should at the very least look at the last 50 years of history and how the Cold War between Soviets and Americans &#8220;trickled&#8221; to the southern continent.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    It is not possible to grasp the current socio-political context of South America without understanding the direct influence the US had on the South between the end of World War II and the late 80&#8217;s.



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    One must also note the silent involvement of France, especially in Argentina and Chile until the Mitterrand&#8217;s socialist&#8217;s government was first elected in 1981. Official US documents related to the American involvement under the leadership of then Secretary of State Henry Kissenger in such initiatives as the Condor Plan (Operation Condor) have surfaced in the last 30 years.



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    Many released under Clinton in 1999. The documents and witness account shed light on how the US under the nebulous pretence of stopping the advance of Communism (especially after the debacle of the pay of pigs, and the triumph of the Castrist revolution) has been the &#8220;Black Hand&#8221; behind an almost countless list of fascist and military right wing coups in Latin America.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    Bolivia seven, 1946-80. Brazil three, 1945-64. Chile four (not all successful) 1948-73. Argentina five between 1943-73 (over a dozen dictators), and the list goes on, and on, and on...



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    Both Argentina and Chile where ruled by bureaucratic dictatorship, and both are arguably the two countries that suffered the most exactions at the hand of state sponsored terrorism.



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    Likely the most known and publicized event was the attack on the &#8220;Palacio de la Moneda&#8221; in Santiago, Chile and the suicide/assassination of President Salvador Allende at the hand of CIA-sanctioned military forces faithful to Augusto Pinochet.



    Countless intellectuals, artists, regime opponents, socialists, and other pro-democracy (left thinking) individuals where captured, tortured and disappeared in Argentina, Chile, and other countries of the &#8220;Southern Cone&#8221; during the so called Dirty War that lasted well into the 80&#8217;s.


    [​IMG]


    Before September 11, 2001. There was September 11, 1973.​
  15. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver
    For us, Santiago was an important landmark; Jackie would be going home for an unbreakable professional engagement, and Valentino would be running South, through the Austral - Patagonia &#8211; La Pampa &#8211; Ushuaia, then the interminable 3000km run North to Buenos Aires where we would rejoined, and spend a couple of weeks in the Federal Capital before sending Angela home, and put ourselves on the next open flight to the Pacific North West.

    We quickly realized that Liliane&#8217;s return would not be feasible, most of the time flying standby is a piece of cake, but when you are going to the antipodes, and coincidently you are travelling to and from high season, you significantly reduce your chances of getting on the next flight. Hence it would be left to me to repatriate the bike back home and organize the shipping; of course my Spanish is decent, but I would be operating with a 50% handicap and without my faithful fixer. In the next few posts I&#8217;ll take you along the ride South and then North in greater details than I did in the previously without a decent connection.

    Now I&#8217;ll be quiet for a while so we can go around the Chilean capital.




    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]
  16. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    In a way Argentina, and as its epicenter, Buenos Aires epitomize the story of the continent, from the Spanish oppression and their squandering of its resources, the take over by the English banks.



    [​IMG]


    Leading us to the French supported independence, ensuing civil war; the bloody and idealistic Simon Bolivar and José San Martin revolution(s) era, exported to limitrophe countries.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    For a brief period hope and justice triumphantly waving the flag of freedom from the imperial oppression. A new country, full of hope and rejuvenation experiencing newly found freedom, all pivoting moments, just as were the American independence and French revolution.



    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    Alas to be again spoiled by the genocidal campaigns of Julio Roca who, under the pretence of unification, successfully annexed the South during his infamous &#8220;Conquista del desierto&#8221;.



    [​IMG]





    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]


    The later appropriation of indigenous land to the profit of the very small minority elite, this wealth redistribution would trigger the agrarian reforms that would lead to massive immigration (many Italians) to compensate for the lack of cheap and readily exploitable labour; they were all dead.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]


    A labor force that would live in horrendous conditions imposed by rich landlords who had abandoned, to pest and cholera and fled to La Recoleta, the now super trendy San Telmo neighbourhood, the cradle of the Tango itself deeply rooted in the poor barrios of Buenos Aires.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]


    One of the more known faces of the opposition in Argentina was: De Madres de Plaza de Mayo.




    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    The 14 founders of the group first demonstrated in 1977 by walking in circles in front of the famous presidential palace;


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    La Casa Rosada, looking for answers has to the whereabouts of their children who had been tortured and disappeared by the state. During the 1978 World cup event greater attention would be brought upon the movement started by the Madres, to eventually become one of the more prominent faces of the opposition to the putschist regime of Videla, a special mention to note that at the heart of those years H.W. Bush senior was director of the CIA.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    Evidently 50 years of history as complex and intermingled as the ones of South and Central America cannot be summarized in a few lines or by a few pictures or graffiti&#8217;s. But at the very least it may preclude and stimulate an interest among us, the foreign riders of North America and Europe, an attempt at understanding why we feel so dumfounded about the things we witness and asked ourselves, how come &#8220;they&#8221;, &#8220;those people&#8221; are and behave this way.



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    These historical episodes would eventually bring the revolt of the masses, the radicalization of Dr. Ernesto &#8220;Che&#8221; Guevara with his Marxist idealism that would reach its paroxysm with the Cuban revolution, and the Socialist and Perronist movements (also known as Justicialism).


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    Far more than just leftist ideology, the movement would provide some tangible relief for the working class. It would be amidst those socio-political changes that the rise and fall of Juan Domingo Perron, and the tragic life and work of its regime&#8217;s most iconic figure would come about; Eva Perron, the illegitimate bastard daughter.



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    For most, Argentina&#8217;s symbol of triumph over feudalism, a victory for the common man, of the poor over exploitation, women&#8217;s right to vote, still for many simply the face of a populist government aiming to rob the ruling aristocracy of their God-given right to impunity.



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    The history surrounding her tragic death, embalmment, the mysterious disappearance of her remains and their eventual repatriation have all contributed to the adulation of Eva the legend, and the sanctity of her iconic speeches from the balcony of Casa Rosasda. In the end, she would be buried at the famous Recoleta cemetery among her most vehement opponents&#8217;, the very same who, during the days of popular mourning. scanted &#8220;Viva el cancer! Viva el cancer!&#8221;.





    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]







    Then the most recent historical chapter, bringing us back to modern times, full circle, where during 25 years of dark and sinister oppression, thousands would die at the hand of the US sponsored dictators. At the very least, during those somber years, Argentina could rejoice when in 1986, Diego as he stepped up the balcony of &#8220;La Casa Rosada&#8221;, in a moment that almost upstaged Evita, presented his country, with the a little help from the hand of God, the FIFA World Cup.

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/-ccNkksrfls" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>



    [​IMG]


    Argentina, with your mountains, windy Pampa, unyielding Patagonia, stunning glaciers and the warmth of your people, you have taken piece of my heart. A piece of my heart that I gladly leave with you, so that one day, soon I hope, upon my return I may rekindle my spirit with your passion, your rich history, and spectacular landscape.






    I will leave it up to you to figure out if Carlos Cardel was Argentinian, French, or Uruguayan?

    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]



  17. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver
    [​IMG]



    One of Buenos Aires 48 Barrios, this colourful neighbourhood, populated by generations of European and Arabic immigrants, is in the southeast of the city, near the old port.




    Sometimes when you are lucky, both light and subject give you a perfect canvass.






    [​IMG]





    [​IMG]





    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

  18. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
  19. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    826
    Location:
    Vankouver
  20. ElReyDelSofa

    ElReyDelSofa Desubicado

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2008
    Oddometer:
    129
    Location:
    Salt Lake, Cuenca y La Union Ecuador
    As always, I have no words to match yours...

    Gracias René&#8206;, what a journey.

    Suerte,

    Martín