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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by studad, Sep 13, 2012.
C'mon...it's not THAT bad!
The 300 has returned 104 MPG in a mileage contest already. I'm getting from 50-60 MPG and thats just riding it the way I like, not trying for economy. A rider intent on high MPG should get well into the 60s without much effort. I'm sure I could just by avoiding the redline.
It retains the same flickability as the 250, I am lucky to have one parked next to it for comparison. The engine mods just filled in the holes the 250 power had and took away the vibes. It feels like a small 4 cylinder more than anything else. They nailed the engine.
If you compare any new bike to used bargains I guess you could never justify any new purchase? I have a neighbor who got a low mile, easily dropped Ducati Hypermotard for $3200. What do I care? It was cheaper than my 300 but it isn't what I want so it matters not.
The 300 is about $500 more than the 2012 250. Tell ya what, you can't make the 250 run like the 300 for 5 times the difference and the bike looks 100X better IMO. The rest I'll deal with, I'm one of a very few riders who would have bought the 300 at $7k if it had better suspension and brakes.
From the side, the SV650SF looks great. From the front it looks like a bug-eyed frog. I have to look at the instruments all the time, and hate them compared to a GSX-R or just about anything else.
And I'd have to replace the entire front end, rear shock and brakes, not to mention the swing arm - same as the Ninjette. Just my prejudice...and I understand the economics. The only ways to get the qualities I want are to 1) buy a 600cc super-sport which is way more engine than I need or want, or 2) build a silk purse. There is just no making me happy!
Understood. If what you want just came out, or you just don't want used, you just have to bite the bullet on price. I'm just a cheap bastard, who has never bought a new vehicle of any kind. I suppose someone has to buy them new, so I can later get a bargain on them.
The 300 sounds like a pretty sweet motor, from what you describe. If driving style can double your fuel mileage, I'm impressed. That means a budget minded rider could commute for next to nothing, yet have a bit of punch available for spirited weekend rides. Kind of like 2 bikes in 1.
Stock tires are IRC "Roadwinners" and they work better than they should but I don't really trust them as the bike gets leaned over further to the edges. I had cheapo tires on my mini sumoto and it cost me a perfectly good left side ACL last year so I'm allowed to be nervous on budget rubbers!
110 fr/140 rr stockers.
I swapped on a 120/70r-17 front and 150/60r-17 rear Conti Force Supermoto tires. I use these on my KTM 530 when it gets the 17s and they are tuff, warm up fast and get really sticky. No clearance problems at either end. I run the 150 on a 4-1/4" rear wheel and the 300 has a 4" wheel. There looks to be room for a 160 but I know they are better on a 5" wheel. The 1/4" doesn't concern me at all.
Rocky Mountain had good shipped prices and I had a little credit/points $$$ to burn too. Good place to deal with.
Tires were one of the first things I ditched on my 250R. I just didn't trust the stock IRC's, so I went with BT003's. Not cheap, but lots of grip.
And true to cheapo bike form, the Fram oil filter PH6017A, is available at Wal-Mart right around the corner from the Rotella!
I love the new wider ratio trans, much better than the old 250. However, the gearing on the 300 is very low in first, and I was using second gear most of the time from a dead stop. Even with a passenger it was better than first which was more noise than action IMO.
On went a +1 CS from a 2008-12. A 15t counter shaft sprocket and it fit perfectly. Suddenly I have a useable first gear! Nice mod, and I'm a guy who runs super short gears on everything I own. My KTM 950 SMR had a -2 front CS so I like my peppy gearing but this thing was a dirtbike low 1st, probably to help the new riders leave from a stop easier but it just annoted the shat outta me. Gear to gear and uphills and such it feels just as good in the upper gears, I am still cruising around in 6th at 40 MPH with decent roll on power.
Another +, I think the speedo will be closer to actual speed now, stock it runs higher than actual speed. I'll verify that with a GPS ASAP but so far I'm convinced it is actually dong the speed it is reading.
Got it installed!
Lets see, drilled out the shock mount holes to 15/32", bought a pair of 120mm 12mm. fine thread bolts, 4- 9/16" nuts that are exactly 1/2" wide for usec as dog bone spacers, 4 flat washers and it just about fell into place. No rubbing! Feels like the stock valving after a minute with the screwdriver. Now to experiment a bit, hope it gets warm again.
If you will, give us a run down on the gauges that thing has, all of em'.
Lets see, digital speedo, analog tach, an incredibly accurate fuel guage with the final flashing bar and warning light signaling .9 gallons left. Turn sig indicators, neutral light, high beam light... oh yeah, a tri circle "good economy" indicator lights up when you are riding with high MPG according to the ECU. A digital clock too.
No temp guage, not that I really miss it. I think thats it. If you wanted a gear indicator there is one that plugs right into the harness. A temp guage would be an easy addition too but I'm fine without it.
Last tank showed 59.9 MPG and I wasn't being especially kind to it.
Rear GSXR shock is great, and a set of HH front brake pads went in today. Much more bite and power, though I'm finding a 3 finger pull is needed to really clamp down on them. I'll be looking into a different master cylinder next to bring that down to a 2 finger, lower effort pull. As it is with SS lines and these pads the rear wheel doesn't really stay on the ground much under braking.
It is really coming along performance wise.
Cheap POS!!! When I turned the caliper bolt the "why did they even bother to paint it" black lower fork coating flaked off like it was road dirt. The caliper bolts were also barely tight so they are corrected with locktite too. Something to check right away for new owners!
Navin, do you know the alternator (stator) output rating for your new 300R?
That has been the one stat I can't find. Not in the mini manual and on the bike specific forums nobody knows. I'll post it when I find out.
My EBC "HH" pads have kept getting better over the last 150 miles, it stops really well for what it is now. A right side 02 GSXR caliper is enroute though, 4 pistons, should match the (I believe) 12mm stock master well. I'm tempted to try a 11mm master with the stock caliper but the 4 pot should really be alot better assuming it clears the wheel.
I did the penny tech zip tie mod to shorten the throttle pull, it is a stupid long twist. I got it about 6mm shorter which is better but a 07 R6 throttle/cables was sourced to get a true 1/6th turn and no crazy glue in the housing.
I'll post up how it goes. Cracked 1000 miles, bike has come a long way between the tires, brakes, gearing and exhaust. I'm tossing it around pretty good, even with cold pavement these days. So far it is a good purchase. I hit 60 MPG without any intention of frugality and it'll cruise at 80 effortlessly.
You gotta get a ride on one but remember, it gets a good 25-30% better with a CS sprocket, tires and brake pads/SS lines.
Cheapo bike alarm rang again today.
At 1060 miles today I felt the headset bearings clunking. Great.
I got in there as soon as I got it home to see what was up with grease before snugging it down. I found a swipe of grease, which was better than none I guess but...
Fuggin ball bearings? Seriously? WTF? Is it 1975 again?
I'm looking into tapered roller bearings and expect this to be a first step towards a full blown front end conversion.
For now a healthy dose of Bel Ray WP grease was smeared on the LOOSE FRIGGIN BALL BEARINGS and I torqued it down.
Bike runs great, holds the road like a champ, has that light flickability of the Ninja 250 but is seriously built to Chinese playbike standards. A cheap bicycle bearing set was not what I expected to find in a 2013 street moto. Budget or not.
Ah, the positive side of owning these clunkers is that the R&D has been done by those that went before you!
I'd have rather spent another $10 for the bike to have them as standard but I will be able to upgrade the next time I pull it apart.
All balls bearing conversion for 2012 Ninja 250, should be the same for the 300.
I'll verify when I know for sure.
Navin, I just read through the Ninja250.org FAQ for replacing the steering head bearings. Quite the dissembly job required. With that much work required, I'd definitely swap in any new front end parts (you suggested WP components earlier) or a complete new front end (from a ZX-6R or GSX-R?) - now! Doing that much work twice will suck.
Yeah, it looks like alot but I owned a KTM Adv for years and had that in a thousand pieces once in awhile so I'm not too worried.
I think I can pull it apart without touching the fairings, if not its just another 20 minutes to strip, and an acre of storage to keep it all safe!
I'll plan it out for at the very least a Race Tech emulator install. I have a set of KTM triples on the shelf too... I can eyeball that and a set of shortened 48mm forks or a set off a SuperDuke with a single radial caliper and KTM wheel are an option.
It depends on how well the Tokico 4 pot works out. I can't say I feel the forks flexing, but they get a bit confused in really stuttery conditions. I'm thinking they pack due to flow restriction and the emulator should fix that.
FWIW, rolling element bearings don't actually require much grease. The whole "pack it to the gills" thing is wrong and can actually lead to early bearing failure due to excessive heat or seal failure.
Doesn't really matter on headset bearings, but it's something to keep in mind.
I'm thinking more here is better as they look like they would rust pit within a few minutes if left to their own devices.