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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by studad, Sep 13, 2012.
Care to elaborate?
It very well could be, and I think that's a great thing, frankly. I can't wait to ride the 300 and the CBR500R back-to-back and make a determination on which is best for me.
I am agreeing with you.
What's there to elaborate?
I ordered a set of All Balls tapered roller steering head bearings tonight. I'm going to stick with the 37mm forks at this point. I'll do the emulators from Race Tech by spring and add the GSXR 4 pot Tokiko caliper once I can get my buddy to fab up a bracket for it. That should give me pretty sick brake power and I can't feel these tubes flexing, yet anyway, so I should be pretty happy once they can flow better.
I expect the decel, no hands steering wobble to disappear after this mod. I'll test without the Scotts damper to be sure, still need to break the bike down to weld that tower pin on. So lazy lately...
I thought you were referring to me as stupid. I was curious as to your rationale.
But since you're agreeing with me, there is no need for explanation.
Um, no, sorry, that's the same as "+1" or "what he said" or "amen to that".
Stock headers getting the track only treatment
10 minutes of saw, drill, hammer & screwdriver work and done. About 2" deep substrate. Tuner shopping very soon!
Test ride today after welding it back together. No noise increase over my Akra open Ti slip on, feels like it has a real hit off the bottom, pulls the forks to top out harder for sure. I can't feel any "jetting" problems, fuels just as well as stock. No popping on decel, maybe a slightly louder burble when you just touch the throttle on decel but no real difference there.
All good and it cost me a lunch for my buddy and under 30 minutes total wrench time.
Bolted in the All Balls tapered roller bearings today, not the nightmare it is said to be. I didn't need to touch the fairings at all. Top clamp pushed forward & tied out of the way, wheel, caliper, fender and mount (that should be a frigging brace since they went to the trouble of building it so complex anyway!!!) the forks drop out, the bottom triple falls thru and simply swap the bearings.
Wobble is gone, steering precision is WAY up!!!
Do this bearing replacement. It makes the bike feel so much more stable and smooth, no comparison to stock. Absolutely excellent mod. It brings the bike up from bargain basement bicycle to actually feeling like a precision motorcycle. Is it THAT fookin hard to do this at the factory?
Under $40 and 2 hours of slow paced wrenching start to finish.
Now that is good news!!!!
That kit from All Balls was for the previous gen Ninja 250. If anyone owns one of those my recomendation stands. The bike is far more confidence inspiring and solid with real good bearings in the head. My kid's 2012 250 will get a set too.
I'm surprised the bearings made that much difference. Happy for you that you found the problem.
Did you replace the races also? A lot of times those can be difficult to remove.
Yes, they just about fell out of the head and off the stem. A few taps of the hammer with a long drift and they were out. You must remove them to set in the tapered race.
Installing the races for the new set was the most time consuming part, the bottom one anyway as there isn't alot of room to swing a hammer. A jig to press them in with threaded rod would have made quick work of it. Still, ten minutes or so on my back reaching up there and the right socket and extension wasn't too bad.
the legacy goes on!
I've settled on the Ricor Intiminators to sort the front forks. I can't find a bad review and the guys who went from Emulators to them rave too. Install is alot easier and they are a few bucks more unless I can find the right size on Amazon.
Anyone with experience with them on a Ninja 250? The website lists what looks like a 39mm valve for the pre 08 250s??? They had 36mm forks compared to the post 08 having 37mm. I have emailed them to double check the fit for the 300.
Intiminators and Gold Valve Emulators do different things; they are not the same solution. I can't find the thread that explained it the best, but those who like Intiminator have a different goal than those who prefer Emulators.
Well, I want to increase the ability of the fork to flow oil as it packs in multiple high speed compression. I have alot of that on the crap mountain roads around my area. I'll keep searching around but all I've seen so far is the RT is a good step and the Ricor goes to another level of control. The RT also relies alot on oil weight to tune it while the Ricor seems more shim adjusted. I haven't used either, and I'm pretty sure anything would be better than stock. I can brake dive it to bottoming too.
Area-P tuner is on the way to my door Monday. Their dyno test showed 38.5 RWHP with their full system, header and can. Baseline on a stocker was 34.1 RWHP. Torque goes up and is flatter from around 4200 RPM to redline, peak HP is at 11000-11,500 RPM. Stock it peaks at around 10,750.
I'm expecting similar gains with my gutted header/Akra can.
43 crank HP isn't far from the 45 I was hoping for.
Hey Navin.... I know your disease so well, as i have been a long time sufferer of it myself.
Buy... tune, tune some more, hot rod, reconfigure, and on and on and on.
I of course, will try to resist this on my 300 Ninja and do my best to live vicariously, through you.
If not careful, I could probably end up by spending as much on that wee bike as i did on my 690 Duke
which served up 64 horsepower in a considerably lighter package.
The thinks we do for love.