The 'No Pissin and Moanin' DR650 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by AST236, Jun 29, 2012.

  1. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Greystoke:
    Nice write-up. :nod :freaky
  2. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    Thanks for the great write up. Hope it makes it to the DR650 thread index.
    Very important service to do once in a while. Most forget the starter until it's too late. Thanks!!
  3. Bultaco206

    Bultaco206 Back-to-back motos suck

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    Well, I've got a lot of stuff (a lot) ordered but I've done nothing to the bike yet since I bought it last Saturday. But I did do about 40 miles of gravel on it today...what they're calling the last 80-degree day until next summer.

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  4. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

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    +1 :thumb
  5. greystoke

    greystoke 2 wheel whore

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    Cheers fellas. No way i was forking over AU$800... Hope it helps
  6. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

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    It does help (a lot!). No way I would pay that amount either. :huh
  7. russt

    russt Adventurer

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    Hello,
    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p>Just got my bike back together last night and had taken out my air box. I cannot remember where a hose coming off of the right side of the carburetor connects. There are two hoses coming from the carb. The larger one comes off the carb and connects to the middle of the air box. The other hose comes off the right side of the carb and I cannot remember where it connects. Should have taken pictures when I pulled it apart to aid in reassembly :D<o:p></o:p>
    </o:p>
  8. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

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    IIRC, the hose that connects to the "middle" of the air box is the crankcase vent. That vent line snakes it's way up under the gas tank and then rearward to the air box. The big hose that comes off of the right side of the carburetor actually does not connect to the air box at all. It terminates above the air box with a small filter housing. The smaller hose, which you can see in the image below, simply lays on top of the air box itself.

    Does this help (image courtesy of ProCycle)?

    [​IMG]

    Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
  9. russt

    russt Adventurer

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    Thanks! You are correct, I just retraced the hose that feeds into the middle of the air box and it does go to the crank case. The hose that I thought went into the air box is connected to the small vent.

    So the small hose that is sitting on top of the air box is a vent from the carb? Either way, I got it all back together correctly if the small hose does not terminate into anything, rather sits on top of the air box.

    Thanks for your reply.
  10. Seth650

    Seth650 Been here awhile

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    FWIW I have a 2009 DR that I ride all the time. It's mostly white and the only mod removes the back spark arrester bolt for more rumble. But with the choke (enricher) always on, this bettered throttle response *above* off-idle (which bogs mildly now). OK don't send me to prison for not being arrested 100% :huh With, tired tires, frt TW is at 16psi and rr TW at 20psi, everywhere. Almost maint-free has spoiled me ...not so the new old cr250r hopely delivered Monday, guess it'll rock me like a hurricane (Sandy). :1drinkSeth
  11. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

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    Yes, I believe it is the float bowl vent.
    Correct, it just sits on top of the air box (and does not terminate into anything).
  12. drdubb

    drdubb OFWG

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    Raleigh, North Carolina
    Been on the adv forum for awhile with a Honda Nighthawk 750. Picked up a DR650 yesterday. It as a few farkles, but I think it needs a little sorting out. The dr reminds me of the Nightawk in that it is a good, solid motorcycle. Not a star, but a workhorse.

    Spent the morning catching up on the thread.seems like a good group. Like the basic philosophy.
  13. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    the 1/2" hose to comes of the right side of the carb and has s small filter on the end is for the vacuum slide. air is pulled into or pushed out of the carb when the slide moves up and down.

    the factory filter is a round ball looking unit with a filter inside it. many replace it with the small filter seen above which can be easily cleaned and oiled. this filter keep dirt out of the carb and must be maintained just like the main filter should for peak performance.
  14. TrophyHunter

    TrophyHunter Long timer

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    drdubb - welcome. I agree with your assessment, a workhorse. It is a star in it's simplicity. I remember a post once that summed up the after ride maintenance for a DR. "I pulled it level, saw oil in the site glass, and had a beer"

    Enjoy the ride.
  15. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Bump for a good thread. :nod

    Hi :wave, it's been two weeks, anything to report? :ear
  16. kobukan

    kobukan almost gnarly

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    Took the '03 on a little jaunt to Copper Canyon a couple weeks ago.

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  17. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    sweet!
  18. russt

    russt Adventurer

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    Fixing a rear flat. Got one side of the tire of just fine and pulled out the old tube. Any suggestions on getting the valve stem of the new tube in the rim? It is hard to pull the sidewall of the tire out enough to get the stem in there.

    Thanks.
  19. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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  20. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    I just came in from the garage where I put a new tire on the rear wheel.
    I used the "Zip-Tie" method and it worked great.
    :clap

    I inflated the tube inside the tire enough to expand the tube into the tire.
    Then I strapped the zippies around the tire and cinched them tight, pulling the beads together as one.
    The valve stem was held tight by the beads and I just fed the valve through the rim hole and pushed the tire all the way into the rim well at the valve.
    I then screwed the nut on the stem some so it wouldn't pop out and then I put a zippy around the tire and the rim to hold the tire in the well.

    Then I was able to push both beads over the rim for more than half the tire and used one tire iron to pop the rest in a few inches at a time. I had done the front tire last night the same way (first time ever using zippies) and I did that one dry, with no lube and it was easy. For the rear I used dish soap to compare and it was just as easy even though the rear tire is much stiffer and wider. FWIW I timed how long it took at my usual turtle pace and it was 5 minutes from tire zipped and sitting next to the rim, to tire completely on the rim and ready to remove the zippies.

    I do also have a valve stem puller that threads into the valve (replacing the core) and I have always used it to fish the valve stem through before but with the zippies I didn't need it.

    As you have found, trying to get the valve stem through the rim with one bead on the rim is an exercise in character.
    That means if you don't turn green and get hulking mad and throw stuff around, you have a good character.
    I don't. My hands are too big and the bead is so stiff!

    So, a long worded response to your simple question but I recommend pulling the tire off the rim and try the zippie way.

    Otherwise, the way I used to struggle and fight to get the valve in required Hulkifying angry strength.
    And that always resulted in lots of skin torn off the backs of my hands and fingers.

    The valve stem tool helps to fish but you still have to fight to get the valve at 90 degrees to the rim hole to feed it through.

    Anyone else have a good secret?

    I am going to use Zip-Ties from now on. I used a small screwdriver to lift the lock tab to release the zippies for reuse.
    I picked up a bag of 15 (?) at Lowe's and now I keep them in my tool box with my tire tools.

    Hope this helps :D