The Offical Pachaug Trail Thread

Discussion in 'Northeast - Greater Flugistan and home of the carp' started by leonphelps, Aug 1, 2008.

?

Have you ridden Pachaug Trail before?

  1. Yes

  2. No

  3. I have not but I want to!

  4. I am scared to ride it....

Multiple votes are allowed.
Results are only viewable after voting.
  1. akarob

    akarob Green Cantern

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    I suggest that you don't look to me for advice. :D Standing is better. I'm just not in as good of shape as I should be so my stilts get tired. I do stand when it gets lumpy though. Sitting is fine until your tailbone gets whacked by your seat like a sledgehammer and you almost go over the bars, or worse. Just sayin. The only time getting on the seat helps is in a sharp turn. My best advice is keep your feet on the pegs, always, without exception - well, at least one foot. :evil Using your legs as part of your suspension will smooth things out a lot.
  2. boinoodle

    boinoodle Old and Cautious

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    Virginia City on it's own is a fun place to visit. The road up from Reno is a twisty canyon road and the local VC color is, uh, interesting. :strum :gerg

    I rode parts of the course, but never raced it, and have pitted for a buddy and his wife who do it almost every year. The start is total mayhem, bikes dropping on pavement and the first two dirt turns never disappoint the spectators.

    But the 115 is a dry heat and it usually cools down 35 or more degrees at night...

    What I miss most is all the open space riding. One could ride every weekend and not ride the same trail twice, Sand Mountain and the motocross tracks that just pop up out of nowhere. :ricky
  3. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    I don't know about 115, but I went trailriding in Death Valley and it was 114 deg and it was more pleasant than riding here (CT) at 90 deg.

    Only trouble was when I was done riding, I sat on the tailgate (black) of my truck in gym shorts. Only for a second I'll tell yah. I had first and second degree burns. Blistered the bare skin.
  4. Happy Seal

    Happy Seal Long timer

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    I dunno, just thought bigger = better! Learn new stuff every day!
  5. Happy Seal

    Happy Seal Long timer

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    Yeah , I also saw them for sale on craigslist! :lol3 That fucking guy cracks me up!
  6. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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  7. lester3

    lester3 Been here awhile

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    malloy will try to ban that tshirt:2guns
  8. alcontrast

    alcontrast at least I'm trying

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    I kind of wish sleeveless t-shirts were banned!


    In regards to the 110 rear tire.. Last year I was looking for a more aggressive front tire for my F650gs which has an annoying 19" front wheel. I was also looking for a cheaper tire than the TKC80 I usually run up front.. I found a 19" Motorcross rear tire that was bi-directional and had the same dimensions as my TKC so I ordered it.. A Dunlop GeoMax. Probably not DOT approved..

    Two things:
    First. the layout and design of the knobs on a rear tire are a bit different than a front tire and while I was able to get used to the handling of that tire up front I would NOT do it again. It was real sketchy, especially when it was new, but I also put well over a thousand street miles on it which is not what it's designed for, even on the rear wheel!
    Second. The tire was huge compared to my TKC with the same specs on the sidewall. I think they were both 110/80-19. I'm not sure why they were actually so much different.. My F650gs has a low fender that's mounted to a fork brace (standard forks, not USD's) and I had to add 3/4" spacers under the low fender to clear tire and I also had to remove the brake caliper and remount it after the wheel was installed since the tire was too wide to fit around it..
    [if anyone wants a used 19" rear tire the knobs are worn but only in one direction and mostly just the center row. Free if you can pick it up]

    I'll admit that tire sizes are sort of mysterious to me.. I'm sure there's a reason but I can't figure out why the second number (110/80-19) isn't simply width rather than ratio? And do the first two numbers mean the size of the "carcass" part of the tire rather than the outer edge of the knobs?
  9. sledstorm1

    sledstorm1 CT RAMBLER'S MC CLUB

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    God dam july dry'd up and baked earth sucks too! I hope I can stay off my right shoulder when I hit in the future...its not if..its when... lol
  10. sparrow

    sparrow Long timer

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    your up pretty early today. I'm hearing good things about the Hoot's ride in a couple weeks. It's supposed to be completely new this year.
  11. sledstorm1

    sledstorm1 CT RAMBLER'S MC CLUB

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    night's! for a couple weeks... hoots would be a possible for me
  12. DariusFriedel

    DariusFriedel Slicker than an M59

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    I'm oncall that weekend so will be missing Hoot's and the CnR. :( Last year's Hoots was a bit too short so hopefully they extended it this year. Plus, last year was so much easier than the year before because it was dry. If it had been wet like 2011, the 50 miles would have been just right.
  13. swathman

    swathman wood tick

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    [​IMG] Example: 120/90-18
    • The first number represents the width in millimeters (in this case 120). It's important to note that this is measured to the sidewall. Different knobby tread patterns of dirt bike tires can extend out past the sidewall.
    • The second number refers to height as a percentage of the width. So in the example the width is 108mm (90% of 120).
    • The third number (18 in this instance) is simply the inside diameter of the tire expressed as rim size.
    Whether to go w/ a wide vs narrower tire is of course a matter of preference... In general (rubber compound and/or tread pattern notwithstanding) "wider" translates to:
    • Looks sexy...
    • Heavier (adds to rotational inertia)
    • Larger contact patch theoretically means more traction
    • Greater resistance to leaning/cornering
    • Slower handling (less nimble)
    I like Chris' advice... Big tires can certainly smooth out the ride a bit but are usually preferred for sandy loose soil conditions.
  14. alcontrast

    alcontrast at least I'm trying

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    So they do measure the width from the widest part of the sidewall, not from the widest point of the knobbies! That's good to know..
  15. ChrisRiedinger

    ChrisRiedinger Specialized

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    Actually, this is not the case. Well maybe, but only because the heavier tier has more mass. But in theory, if tire mass was similar across two given tire widths, the narrow(er) tire would have higher traction per square inch of contact patch. Think snow tires, skinny ones cut through the snow and the wider ones tend to 'float'

    Physics does not always agree with intuition :lol3
  16. swathman

    swathman wood tick

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    That's probably why your rear tire mounted in front was so much wider even tho sizing numbers were similar... Dang side knobbies!!
  17. swathman

    swathman wood tick

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    You are correct Sir!! That's kinda why I thru the word "theoretically" in there... Poor choice I guess. I didn't mean scientific theory. I mean't commonly perceived notion.

    I think the whole "contact patch" idea is kinda flawed anyways when talking dirt bike tires. Really, how much more of a 130/90-18 makes contact to a hard flat surface vs a 110/100-18? To me a wider tire only matters when it's completely engulfed in loose dirt and all that extra surface area might be of value...
  18. kenny61

    kenny61 Crazy Idiot

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    It depends of the surface as you said a skinnier tire cuts down into the snow alowing it to reach firm ground on a high traction surface such as asphalt wider is better which is why nascar doesnt run skinny bicycle tires. wider tires are also used for flotation such as deep botomless mud because teh skinny tire could never dig down to anything
  19. mrt10x

    mrt10x Dumba$s Jarhead

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    yeah but what kind of oil do you use :D
  20. kenny61

    kenny61 Crazy Idiot

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    http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/859515-skinny-or-fat-front-tire/