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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Hondo, Apr 28, 2010.
It is getting harder to find unique Deals Gap face plant images. Dragging hard parts isn't particularly interesting unless a low side is in progress or imminent. Flying a chair isn't interesting either.
My 2000 R11RT, under the left fairing lower.
Is that it? The fiche appears to show the little grommet which holds the cable.
A unique view of my 04 RT....Ya know, I figured out that green algae stuff is REAL slick shit!
Obligatory pic complete with green forest,, running stream, and a well dressed woman
I have a 1999 RT and was wondering if I could charge my Droid X overnight from the bikes accessory port without draining the mc battery?
Have a 2003 with Oddysey battery and a battery minder (let's me know the state of the battery charge).
Battery minder starts beeping when the voltage goes below 12.0v.
I ride daily, about 12 - 15 miles each day. Starts fine, no problems.
But, every 2 to 3 days, I have to put the charger on, since the voltage drops below 12.0 v.
So I tested the load on the battery, and the control panel indicator on the right side of cockpit (clock, temperature gauge and fuel gauge) draw collectively 4.5 to 5 amps.
I hooked up the amp meter between the ground and negative terminal, and that was the only fuse that showed current with the ignition turned off.
Is that normal discharge?
Anyone have any experience oe knowledge about this?
It seems to me that his is way too much current going out.
Aside from that, love the RT.
I don't have experience with the R1150, but that seems like a lot of draw to me. Someone with an 1150 is bound to chime in. If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll throw a meter on my R11 and see what it is drawing - I think they have the same instrument cluster, so it should be similar
I have let my R11 sit for a few weeks before and haven't needed to put it on a charger. I installed the quick-connect pigtails on the battery to plug one in, but have never actually used it. On Hondo's question - a cell phone doesn't draw much power at all, so you might be able to get away with charging it on the bike - but of you have a tank bag, you could just charge it while you are riding, and have it full when you arrive - I've done that before.
I was remiss for not posting a pic above. Here's something from a day of exploring after the MotoGP race in Laguna. That is a brand spankin' new K16 behind my humble RT. Owner was nice - he was just out wandering, too - but headed a lot further than we were. Also came across a pair of K12LT's on our way back out on the road - it was an impromptu beemer-fest!
Glad you like your RT. I got mine when I retired from the Army. Be careful riding. There are times when more Soldiers are being killed in motorcycle accidents than in combat.
In answer to some of your questions:
a. The bike has just under 12k miles and has been routinely servced by the local dealer. Anything I should scrutinize mechanically?
Does it sound right? If so, just ride it - hard. I routinely ride from San Francisco to Anaheim and never worry about reliability. Screaming through The Grapevine and dodging the cagers in LA - great fun. You can also take the bike to his shop and as for the service history. At 12K miles, it's just getting broken in.
b. Besides the bike, anything I should make sure i get rom the previous owner (ie owners manual, tool kit, how many keys, etc...)?
Hopefully, he threw them in with the bike. The bike comes with the regular key and smaller wallet key. The keys are coded to work with the ignition so if you have a key ring, that key should be the only key on it. A lot of people put all their keys on their bike key ring. This can put undue stress on the key antenna ring.
c. I really like running with a tank bag. I'm military, and use one to store my ID for use at the base gate. I hate large tank bags (ie the BMW RT bag is too big for me). any suggestions on a different tank bag and/or a good place to keep my ID for easy access?
Get an ICON riders vest. It has an tear-off panel ID card holder. Available from ICON, eBay or the PX and a lot nicer than that dorky safety vest your prolly wearing now. Plus, your combat patches look pretty need sewed on the back. ICON, and others, make different tank bags, put the vest worky for me.
d. I run a Garmin Quest2 GPS on the ST that I'd like to move to the RT. It has the motorcycle mount and hardwire kit. Right now I have it mounted between the bars on the ST via a special adaptor. Any suggestions for mounting this to the RT?
Unless you're good at it, this is one for the dealer.
e. I also run an Escort radar detector in the left fairing pocket of the ST. It was the best/safest/most accessable/weatherproof location i could find on this bike. I have it tied to a radar screamer. Any suggestions for running an Escort on the RT?
Check the BMW Sport Touring forum. Where are you stationed? There may be BMW riders in your area with suggestions.
f. I run PIAA 1100x lights on the ST (fork mounted). I'd like to move them to the RT. Looking for suggestions?
Mine are on the forks, too.
g. I've been a member here at for a while and get most of my BMW info here. Any good RT only forums out there?
www (DOT) bmwsporttouring.com is probably the oldest one on the 'net. A search for BMW motorcycle forums may give some others.
Looking forward to the transistion. I've really enjoyed the ST1300, but it is just time for a change. Always a little tough transitioning, but hopefully you all will give me some ideas to make this easier.
The RT1200R is a great bike. No vices, nothing unexpected, twisty throttle and go fast. ABS will stop you fast. Find an empty parking lot and practice your slow speed skills. The bike will move at walking pace when idling in 1st gear. It will also go all the way to the feeler pegs you won't even feel it until you get there or you notice that the horizon is nearly sideways. Practicing U-turns builds confidence.
Thanks in advance.
You're welcome. Ride safe
No problem, I do it all the time.
I fabbed a spacer out of 1/8"x1" wide aluminum strap from home depot to mount between the frame mount tab and the seat adjuster mechanisms and that fixed the sliding forward problem with the comfort seat on my "02 R1150RT-P. I had heard of someone using 1/4"x1" aluminum, but I had some 1/8" on hand, tried it and it worked. Thought I'd share in case anyone is looking!
Have a picture of the mod?
Old thread, but yes I have .. still working on a write-up but PM me if you're still looking for info.
Here's a few:
I'd be interested in this too...
Since we're having what I'm guessing is the final weekend of 80+' weather here I'll finish this up and post later in the week!
Yeah? Where you at?
I am having weird ABS faults on my '02 1150RT. It started out random but now it looks to be here to stay.
At first my ABS light would flash while I was riding, I would try the brakes and found that the servos were disabled. Usually I would try the brakes roll a little, the ABS would reset and I would continue on my merry way.
Just recently on my way home from the Barber Vintage Festival I was puling into a rest area as it happened...ABS light on solid, no servo brakes. When I stopped I noticed my brake light was on even though no brake lever was being applied. I thought maybe a faulty brake light switch. I left the rest area and a couple miles up the road the ABS light went out and the servos were active again.
Today as I was pulling into my garage it happened again. I checked the brake light it wouldn't work with either the front or rear. I rapped on the taillight housing and it cam on and stayed on. I turned the Ign switch off and left it off for a couple of minutes. I turned the Ign switch back on and the brake light was off. Pulled the bulb out of it's holder, put it back in and the brake light came on and stayed on.
I have checked the tail light bulb and brake light bulb with my meter and the read good.
Here is the weird thing...when I pulled fuse #1 out, the ABS warning relay starts cycling and when I try my brake light it works normally with either the front or rear being applied....any ideas????
Yea, well, I'll get to it maybe over Thanksgiving weekend. This is not good.
Parts ~600.00, labor=free--->me! Probably my most challenging job!
Need to do the little stuff first, valve adj, change oil/filter, new ABS sensor for the front, etc.....
If anyone has experience doing this, please let me know.........chuck :eek1
I am considering going for a RT , after riding GS's ,R's and RS. The wind noise is just getting to me. I rode a 1200 RT yesterday, and was really impressed with how light it feels( looks HUGE). The 1150/ 1100 RT's look a lot better though, and are easier to come by. Haven't had a ride on one yet , but a lot of people reckon they handle a lot worse then the 1200RT. Anybody has experience with aftermarket shocks on the 1150/1100 RT ?.
I know it doesn't take away the weight difference, but it should help the handling. Is the wind protection ( noise and buffeting) any worse on the oilheads compared to the 1200 ?