The Official RT Thread

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Hondo, Apr 28, 2010.

  1. Cameleer

    Cameleer Worldcrzer

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2012
    Oddometer:
    110
    Location:
    Dubai, UAE and for now, Italy
    I am so glad to see so much feedback here from you guys regarding maintenance and accesories for RT's here, I cannot do any work myself on my good ole' 2001 1150RT as we "live apart" since I will not ride here in Dubai where I live.

    For now, the bike is in Spain for the winter and I'm hoping to go ride it at the end of the month. I shipped first to Germany where I did my unglamorous baby steps being back to biking after 25 yrs, then took it by train to the French border and rode it to Barcelona. It has been a long road to get this going and if I ever put it in writing it will for sure make some of you laugh! Got a couple of good rides around Heidelberg with some of it on my GoPro and some good stills, if I ever make the time for it I'll come up with a good ride report.

    Thanks for all the good info. Cameleer
    :clap
  2. Cameleer

    Cameleer Worldcrzer

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2012
    Oddometer:
    110
    Location:
    Dubai, UAE and for now, Italy
    By the way, does anyone have any experience with connecting the Zumo 660 Garmin-supplied power cable?
    I would like to somehow link it to the ignition switch rather than directly to the battery.

    Any help appreciated, regards Cameleer
  3. ka5ysy

    ka5ysy Doug

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    830
    Location:
    Prairieville LA
    I am not certain which cord you have, but Garmin does have a specific motorcycle mount kit. This is the GPS City site (good people!):


    http://www.gpscity.com/garmin-zumo-660-and-665-motorcycle-cradle-with-integrated-power-cable.html

    You did not mention what year bike you have, but my 2011 RT has a connector zip tied to the frame by the steering head for the BMW version. You can purchase the BMW Repair connector, solder it to the Garmin lead and attach into the system that way.
  4. LeglessOne

    LeglessOne Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,556
    Location:
    ..

    Damn I wish I'd known that.

    I just broke into the wire supplying the power outlet under the stereo controls - goes on and off with ignition.

    Shane
  5. ka5ysy

    ka5ysy Doug

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    830
    Location:
    Prairieville LA
    Check this thread for details of the radio leads available, as well as the GPS hookup. Great information :

    http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53007&page=1&pp=50
  6. LeglessOne

    LeglessOne Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,556
    Location:
    ..
    Thanks Doug

    Some great info there.But I've already wired the GPS up and while i was at it put an outlet in the top of the glovebox to charge my phone and keep it out of the weather.

    Shane
  7. mwood7800

    mwood7800 Banned

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    611
    Drive shaft
    Anyone ever pulled the driveshaft on a 1200, I would like to check my ft u joint just to check for rust or stiffness. Just did a trip and my buddy's ft u joint broke causing serious damage. Embarrassing as the other bikes with us were all hd and 7 years older. The broke bike was an 08 1200.
  8. Jim-Mer

    Jim-Mer Slowing Down

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    101
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    I've always wondered if there is any correlation between our clunky transmissions and drive line failures? Wen I shift down from 3rd to 2ndon my NEW RT, it feels like the entire driveline gets a tremendous jolt. This cannot be good for all of the downstream components like U-joints and other pieces and parts. What do the learned experts here think of that theory?

    Jim
    Canton,OH
  9. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    55,199
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    I believe the RT and ST are the same. If that is true, the driveshaft can not be removed without pulling the swingarm. I have tried.

    The GS and GSA allow removal of the driveshaft with the swingarm installed.

    Jim :brow
  10. ka5ysy

    ka5ysy Doug

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    830
    Location:
    Prairieville LA
    Don't let the clutch out so fast, and remember to add throttle to match the lower gearing. Problem solved.
  11. Cameleer

    Cameleer Worldcrzer

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2012
    Oddometer:
    110
    Location:
    Dubai, UAE and for now, Italy

    Thanks for the reply Doug, now please forgive the ignorance but what exactly is the BMW Repair Connector? :eek1
    My bike is a 2001 RT and the cable is the Garmin-supplied motorcycle kit with the multiple cable with two bare connectors.

    Regards to all C
  12. Jim-Mer

    Jim-Mer Slowing Down

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    101
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    Doug, i wish it was that simple. I've been riding motorcycles almost 50 years, and have learned every trick in the book to achieve smooth shifts. The best I have come up with for this bike is to blip the throttle as I pull in the clutch, and as the revs begin to fall slightly ease the clutch out as I engage the lower gear. It is a tricky shift that I get right about half the time, the rest of the time is no less a clunk than other methods, to include the one you describe. I had a 09 GS with the same challenge. Mostly this is the 3 to 2 shift. I expect it on the 2 - 1 shift, and going up through the gears is not a problem.

    Our gearboxes are famous for being clunky and loud, and we have accepted that as just being the way they are. My question is if that can be a contributor to the high failure rate of the downstream components. The question is still an open one for me.

    Other opinions?
  13. ka5ysy

    ka5ysy Doug

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    830
    Location:
    Prairieville LA

    The "Repar Connector" is the plug with bare wires that matches the socket on the bike. Check with your dealer and see if there is one for your 2001. I am not sure what that part number would be, and if you even have one like the later bikes.

    I think your bike is pre-canbus so you should also be able to simply locate a switched 12vdc source and tie into that. GPS's do not use much current, and their wiring harnesses as supplied have an inline fuse, so should be no problem. My personal preference in doing this is to solder the connections and cover with head-shrink tubing for insulation, but I am kinda anal about electrical wiring in motorcycles, boats and aircraft.

    Plan B for you would be to simply add a switching fuse block and power the GPS through the block. An example is like this (my setup):

    [​IMG]
  14. ka5ysy

    ka5ysy Doug

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    830
    Location:
    Prairieville LA
    Hmm... Is the clunk you are hearing occurring when you press the shift lever with the clutch pulled in? I am not clear if the clutch is pulled fully, or if you are shifting while in the friction zone (some loading in the transmission), which would cause a jerk if the engine speed is not fully matched with the transmission. If you are describing the clunk you hear when shifting with the clutch is pulled in, that is not going to stress the U-joints as the drive line is not connected at that point.

    My RT clunks sometime on downshifting with the clutch pulled in fully. Guess that is BMW "character" !

    Something you might try is to preload the shifter lightly for the downshift, and without pulling the clutch in, roll off the throttle very slowly and see if the transmisson downshifts smoothly. This sounds silly, but you can do a smooth downshift without clutch if necessary, as easily as upshifts. Most convenient with broken clutch cables !
  15. LeglessOne

    LeglessOne Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,556
    Location:
    ..
    +1
    Only use the clutch to stop/start and if i'm not paying attention and stuff up an up/downshift.

    Get the odd clunk but generally reasonably smooth for a boxer g/box

    Shane


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  16. Jim-Mer

    Jim-Mer Slowing Down

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    101
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    "but generally reasonably smooth for a boxer g/box"

    And that is my point. We know that boxer g/box are generally NOT smooth, and some are much worse than others. I have riden boxers with transmissions that shift nicely, so not all are afflicted, fortunately. I unfortunately have gotten two that are. My K12RS was not Suzuki smooth, but was acceptable. My question is not whether or not they can be shifted smooth with any of the techniques that Doug has described (and yes I've tried them all), but if those bikes with g/boxes that do NOT shift smoothly likely to be the ones with downstream drive train problems.

    On this bike and the GS I had before the 3 - 2 shift is not that much different than the 2 -1 shift. Question is still open... if the rather unpleasant "clunk" is a contributor to downstream drivetrain problems. Not trying to beat a dead horse, but to figure out if I should be thinking of finding something else to ride at the 36K warranty expiration point!

    I love the boxer motor, and the RT is a fabulous mile eater, but when it gets tight or in slower traffic it is painful!

    Thanks,

    Jim
    Canton, OH
  17. Xdriver

    Xdriver Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    139
    Location:
    North Texas
    I really like the motor on my bike('09), wind protection, etc, but the transmission and dry clutch annoy me each time I ride. I've owned a few bikes at this point, one of which was a GS of the same year. All of those bikes I could get smooth shifts and didn't really think about what I was doing. It was nice. This bike on the other hand is a pain in the ass. Off the line, I have to be cautious not ride the clutch leading to jerky motion from a full stop. Shifting after that is clunky at best. I think a few times it even dropped a gear on me from 6th to 5th. Hoping that was just my foot resting on the shift lever. Probably all user error, but I just can't believe that after 10K I don't have this figured out. Tested a couple HD touring bikes and the shifting was so smooth and easy in comparison. And that right out of the parking lot, first time riding the bike.

    I'm about 10,000 miles into this bike. Hope I get better soon.
  18. JBADV

    JBADV searching for sanity

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,431
    Location:
    right here,right now
    After a '05 GS and a '09 GSA I find the transmission on the '12 RT very smooth.I don't have any problems shifting,up or down.I think the steep driveline angle on the GS/GSA might add to shifting problems.
  19. Shaun09

    Shaun09 Riding the Asphalt Ribbon

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2009
    Oddometer:
    54
    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    Try checking here http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51765&rnd=08102012 in the parts fiche under R1150RT (61 – Electrical System, 61_2484 - REPAIR CABLE MAIN CABLE HARNESS and 61_2485 - REPAIR CABLE MAIN CABLE HARNESS) where you will find descriptions and photos of the various repair connectors that may be of use.

    Cheers!
  20. Cameleer

    Cameleer Worldcrzer

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2012
    Oddometer:
    110
    Location:
    Dubai, UAE and for now, Italy
    Thanks for the link, I'll keep the page on the iPad and take it to the dealer in Spain where I hope it gets done, I just don't have the time to work on it myself (not that I would be any good at it).
    I appreciate the help and will report back.
    Safe rides, FR