The Official RT Thread

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Hondo, Apr 28, 2010.

  1. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    I am striping down my RT to build a custom bike like larryboys or Fabs and I am curious why the wiring harness has 2 areas that a mass of brown, white, green and a couple of other wires are crimped together in bunches.

    What is the purpose of this massive knot of wires...not once buut twice?

    It is definately a factory thing and not some home splice job. Just seems like a massive waste.
  2. roger 04 rt

    roger 04 rt Long timer

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    For example the brown wires are for grounding. This allows an economical, reliable connection of many wires to a common point.
  3. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    That does not sound economical OR reliable to me.
    Running a single larger gauge wire and then using a frame bolt to connect other leads out would be lighter, and much less bulky.

    That is also very reliable, and utilizes existing components rather than a huge bundle of wires with a subpar joint at 2 different places.

    What are the white wires? Hots?
  4. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    Not sure how or why I ended up in this thread....moved...?

    Anyway,
    The question I have now is=
    Is the FAG anti-lock pump and its systems and wiring intermingled with the Motronic electronics and FI systems?

    I am deleting the ABS, going to a dirt bike front end and no abs on a 320 mm Sumo rotor, and I want to delete the wiring out of the harness. I of course will cap off and heat shrink any wire that has to get cut out of those big bundled wires so there is no shorting or grounding issues, but clipping that entire part of the harness will not interfere with the ignition or FI will it?
  5. Cameleer

    Cameleer Worldcrzer

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    +! .



    Cameleer: What you are looking for (shims) are washers of two different thicknesses. There are "full thickness" and "half-thickness" washers. Stacking the combination will assist you in placing the Throttlemeister in the correct position for the "piston" to move into position to hold the throttle grip in place. It is actually quite easy to adjust once you realize that there is a piston moving in and out of the right side weight assembly, and it cannot start too far away from the throttle grip.



    The problem you are describing tells me that the washer stack inside the bar end is too tall (too many or no half-thickness washers). Take one out and try it again and see if that allows the piston to push into the throttle grip. Be certain that you can fully disengage the friction after your installation.



    I know it sounds dumb, but be sure the bar end with the piston is on the throttle side. I actually found a set reversed by a dealership installer. They had no clue, obviously !.



    Another problem I have seen is that installers put all the half-washers on the clutch side bar end, so check and see if they are over there.



    Only other hint I can give is to be sure the piston is fully retracted into the bar end, and that the shim washer stack has the bar end with a visible gap, but not too far away from the throttle.



    If you discover that you are missing the half-thickness washers, you can give Throttlemeister a call and they will send you a couple, usually without charge. If you are in a hurry, I have actually manufactured half-washers by taking some stainless steel washers and grinding them on a carborundum stone. Took about 30 minutes to do that for my RT after I dropped the shim washers and could not find the half-washer (Murphy's law number 94 or some such!).



    Good luck !

    Thanks for your replies guys, it's appreciated. I haven't had a chance to look into the T-Meister because I left my bike in Spain and I'm back in the Sandpit. I have the feeling though that I was doing something REALLY idiotic and was twisting the T-Meister in a CLOCKWISE direction, opposite to the throttle opening and contrary to the instructions.
    Brilliance eludes me again.

    Doug: Your bike looks AWESOME, ordered the Kristas and will report. They don't look as good as on the 1200RT as they are mounted up and above the mirrors but, hey, the purpose justifies the looks.

    All the best, Cameleer
  6. Schnickelfritz

    Schnickelfritz pick, grin, repeat

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    +1. Had to fix this when I was 2000 miles into a 5000-mile trip last fall. Turned out the T-Meister was too far outboard to create the needed friction against the end of the grip (I assume this is because the frictive surfaces wear down/apart). Once I figured this out, the hard part was finding a washer of the correct thickness at a hardware store in Great Falls, MT. They didn't have any. But it turned out that I did: I had a couple of thin plastic body screw washers in my spares kit. Since replaced with a half-thickness metal washer. All is good.

    Side note: on that trip, I rode for two days without a throttle lock before fixing it. Holding the throttle open for almost 15 hours led to a case of moderate positional palsy of the radial nerve and a 10-week recovery time.

    p.s. sorry if I'm misquoting
  7. Budman

    Budman Been here awhile

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    One of my riding friends has just had her 6000 mile service on her 2012 R1200RT. The valves were out of adjustment and the dealer had to replace some small pea shaped spheres and semi spheres. What are these parts and what is their function. Part numbers 11347721187, 90, 93,94.. They replaced the valve valve cover gasket as well. That I understand.
    Could the wearing of these parts have caused the increased burning of oil? Dealer told her it was very odd to have to replace the small spheres and semi spheres.

    Thanks for any insight.

    Bud.
  8. Bikebits

    Bikebits Scramblin' man

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    The items replaced are shims used to adjust the valve clearance. On most bikes they're a flat disc. BMW cam-heads use a fairly unique configuration where they're (all) semi-spheres. The valve cover gaskets are meant to be re-used so should not need to be replaced every time the cover is removed.

    It seems most of the cam-head engines are going 20 k or more without valve adjustment, so it is unusual that so many shims would need changed at 6K. No need to be concerned unless several need replaced at the next service interval.

    If the bike is burning oil it is a common condition on the newer boxer motors and not related to valve adjustment. The rings and cylinders are so hard that they may not bed in until well over 20K when the oil consumption decreases. There are tons of threads all over the internet about it. Google "BMW boxer oil consumption." The up side is that due to this hardness these engines can go a couple hundred thousand miles and not need the rings replaced.
  9. Budman

    Budman Been here awhile

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    Every other bike that I have owned had flat shims. I was not aware of the BMW shims. Ive never had an issue with any of my BMWs burning oil in any ggreat quantity. My 2012 rt does not. Ive read about those that do but have not experienced it myself. Then again Ive never had a rear drive failure either.

    Thank you for the help.

    Bud
  10. adventurebound9517

    adventurebound9517 Been here awhile

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    I recently has my 24,000 mile service on my 2011 RT and the valves are still good, no adjustment necessary.
  11. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

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    here's the shocks I have for sale in the FM...

    [​IMG]
  12. Deek

    Deek Deek / AdVentureMan

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    I've got the 10 liter RKA bag. Excellent quality, but it's NOT shaped correctly for the RT1200. THe forward, inside of the RKA bag is very "short" because of the shape of the BMW gas tank. The R1200RT tank is not flat, but very slooped. Now I've been using an RKA for about 5 years, but mainly because since it's so short, I can see the BMW NavIII mounted on the triple-tee - the GPS could not be seen at all with a taller bag. However, I just bought a '12 R1200RT, and will mount the GPS on the dash - much higher. And I will probably look at getting a different, taller bag. The RKA has next to no room inside once mounted and zipped shot on my R1200RT. Basically I put my phone chargers, pair of gloves, sunglass case my SPOT I and a couple of pens in there. No much room for much else.
  13. Lomax

    Lomax Nanu-Nanu Adventurer

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    I have always liked the Marsee tank bags with the corona mount. I have them on my RT and GS. They do not lay on the paint and are easy to remove for fueling.

    http://www.marseeproducts.com/

    I have been very happy with mine over the years. And with another mount you can easily move the bags from bike to bike.

    Marc
  14. Deek

    Deek Deek / AdVentureMan

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    Thanks for the tip. Which "corona mount" one do you have on your RT? 10l or 15l? I'm a little concerned about the handlebars hitting any tankbag when I turn them lock to lock. Even my 10l RKA bag I've been using gets the handgrips turned on when I turn the bag to full right! <g> The price on those Masee bags is very nice for what comes with it. How do they work, just turn the bag 90° or so and lift it off and set it down on the back seat or whatever?
  15. Rogue Agent

    Rogue Agent Adventurer

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    Howdy, a friend of mine died last Fall while riding his '07 RT. The section of road he was on wasn't particularly tough and his riding partners said that he wasn't riding particularly aggressively. All we really know is that he went down in a turn, he slid across about 20 yards of shoulder, and the bike and he struck a tree. Has anyone heard of brake failures or lock-ups with '07 RT's? We'll never bring him back, but we're still trying to establish some closure and make sense of it. Thanks!
  16. KodiakRS

    KodiakRS Adventurer

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    I'm currently in the market for a sport tourer and figured I'd ask you guys some questions.

    I currently have a multistrada 1200 which I love except for it's insane maintenance and horrible wind protection. I'm looking to replace it with something a little bit better suited to long distance riding without giving up too much in the handling department. I try to ride "the pace" as described by Nick Ienatsch, so a monster of an engine isn't really that critical. Good handling however is a major requirement. All of the traditional ST bikes I've ridden (C14/FJR) have decent handling for big high powered luxury touring motorcycles but once you start pushing them even moderately hard in the corners they start to have issues. From what I've seen, the relatively light weigh and short wheelbase of the r1200 series compared to the bigger ST bikes leads them to excel in the handling and cornering departments. The few times I've ridden behind a properly motivated rider on a GS or RT they've ridden at a significantly quicker pace than I expected.

    Is my assumption correct, or is does the RT still handle like a big luxury touring motorcycle?

    Another question: For those who have ridden both, which would you rather take down a twisty (paved) canyon road? An R1200GSA or an R1200RT. Which would you rather take on a multi day motorcycle camping trip?

    Last question, how is the wind protection on the RT for a someone with a TALL torso. I'm 6'4 with a measly 34'' inseam which has lead to endless frustration with buffeting on the mts1200. Am I correct in assuming that the RT is going to have vastly superior wind protection than the GSA?
  17. adventurebound9517

    adventurebound9517 Been here awhile

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    I think you'll find that those that own the RT will tell you that one is best and visa versa for the GS. I have an Aeroflow windshield on my RT for improved wind protection and of course the fact that the windshield will go up and down with the touch of a button is really nice for all conditions. Speaking of speed this bike will go way over the limit if you choose but if you keep it at or below 4,000 rpm which is 70-75 it will give you 50 mpg.
  18. Bikebits

    Bikebits Scramblin' man

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    The RT looks massive, but it's all a big hollow fairing. You have to ride one to believe something that looks so big can handle so well.

    That same big fairing gives the best weather protection in the BMW line. Reviews have said that the weather protection is even better than the K1600. Since I got the RT it has extended the comfortable riding season by a month in the spring and one in the fall. It's actually too efficient in the hot summer months; there's no breeze at all. That's when I ride the Triumph.
  19. Lomax

    Lomax Nanu-Nanu Adventurer

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    I have the 6l Ciao Borsa and the 10l Rocket Pocket for mine. The 6l is fantastic for day trips. The 10l works OK but the bars do run into it at full lock. There are magnets on the mount that hold the bag straight and all you have to do it turn it about 45 deg and lift it off. I usually just set it on the back seat while fueling. I have never had an issue and even though it would be really easy to steal, I don't think your normal thief would be smart enough to figure it out., fingers crossed. :lol3

    </g>
  20. roadstar

    roadstar Been here awhile

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    I came from an 07 FJR & i can not say anything bad about that bike, as it handled quite well & good wind protection with the right windshield. But i wanted to try something a little different (engine wise), & got to say that my RT sure is different than the FJR. The fairing is wider , so better wind protection to the lower body (actually hotter in the summer than the FJR , cause no wind gets to you) & as for handeling , the RT has it`s weight low so it took a little to get used to. In tight stuff the RT really shines , as it is more flickable cause it is lighter & weight is lower. I still have the stock shield (which kind of sucks for me 6'1" 32 inseam) so can`t say about wind & buffiting until i spend some buck on a better one.