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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by wickerman777, Nov 4, 2006.
vfr870, that's exactly what I needed to know, thanks much!
I haven't messed with the preload yet, though I keep meaning to. I always seem to be getting ready to do it and suddenly end up blasting along some trail instead... odd how that happens :huh Anywho, it's got ~22k miles on it, around 1.5k of them from me. Before that it was ridden hard. The PO's kids learned to ride on it (dirt ride, that is). It squats noticeably when I sit on it, but why I think I'm in need of a new one is because of how slow the return is. I'll get off it and it'll take its sweet time returning to attention. So much so that sometimes I'll go to lean it straight up to push it around and the seat will decide to rise the last inch or two, and that's after sitting a day or more. Poor thing. I haven't treated it nicely either, I'll admit. I've been beating the snot out of that poor machine since I got it... 4-ish months ago. 1,100 mile trip while heavily loaded, heavily rutted trails, baby-heads, a couple dumps, etc.
I'm always amazed when I see XT225's for sale on CL that only have 100 miles on them. Did anybody here pick up the 07' posted in Atlanta the other day, asking $2000? I was tempted to buy it to upgrade from my 02' with 9K, but didn't have the time to drive down.
I would have thought that June would be an "expensive month" to shop for a bike, but there are some real deals out there. I also saw a guy selling two 08' WR450's like mine for $2500 each (I just paid $4000), but who's got time to drive out to Nevada from NC? Oh well, it fun looking at the ads....
I wonder if these footpegs would fit an XT225? They aren't listed for it, but they look like they might. Has anybody here tried them? Sure would be nice if they'd work, because they look a lot bigger & are cheap.
The left peg will fit without modification, the right will not.
Crossing a creek on my XT.
howdy, i'm pretty new to motorcycles and riding. i have a 1994 xt225, with about 9600+ miles. i just bought from a co-worker. the stock suspension seems pretty soft.
how do i adjust the rear suspension, so when 220 lbs of me sits down on it from sagging so much?
front suspension, if i add more air, will that make the front stiffer?
i don't have money to invest right now, got to get the bike paid off first and get me a riding jacket. so any help on how to adjust the suspension would help... i am gonna pick up a spanner wrench, i thought i had one from my military days-nope. if anyone has some good step by step instructions, that would be great.
Welcome! Here's a link to Yamaha's website where you can download the owner's manual for a '98 XT225. You'll have to fill in the drop down boxes for "Product Line,"--use Motorcycle, "Year"--use 1998, and model. That's the nearest year to your model. I don't know what the differences are, but I don't think they are too great and should get you started on things like adjusting the rear shock, oil changes, chain tension, etc.
Thank you, i will get reading and hope to have some luck in making my bike a better ride. so far it's been fun, riding around the neighborhood. i just completed the Idaho Star motorcycle education/skills class, and going to take my written test at the dmv thursdays...hopefully i'll pass. can't wait to get on the road/ off-road and have some fun.
I spent last Weds-Sun camping off of the bike in the mountains of VA while trying to avoid pavement as much as possible
Which part of the VA mountains, north or south? I'm in Northwestern NC, about 45 minutes from Damascus, VA. I'd like to try crossing a creek like that, especially knowing somebody made it across before me.
I'm met a few rivers that just don't like letting bikers across! :huh
I wrote a while back looking for advice, as I replaced my right side crankcase gasket and the screw in the 10 o'clock position appeared to be stripped, as well as two of the oil filter cover plate bolts, which had always been that way from when I bought the bike. Well, as suggested, I replaced one of the cover bolts with a homemade stud (thanks for the suggestion ER70S-2, and retapped another one to an m8x1.25 thread from m6x1.0. These work no problem now, but when I was going to tighten the one o'clock position oil filter cover bolt (the last one after torquing all the other CC cover screws properly) it seemed to twist around and then promptly snapped
I HATE breaking bolts and grudgingly removed all the sweetly torqued bolts (5.1 ft/lbs) and managed to remove the rest of the screw.
So, my question is, has anybody had a similar experience, and what have they done. My thoughts are the following:
-replace every bolt with a piece of high strength threaded rod that acts as a stud and use nuts to attach the CC cover
-get some new bolts that are about a mm shorter than the ones they are replacing. I honestly feel that the only way a bolt will break is if is bottoming out, but why would this be happening? I measured some of the hole depths vs. bolt thread length and it looked like there was a 3-4 mm gap at the bottom to avoid this.
I'm stymied, and the bike needs to be fixed by Friday.
There are 4 bolts in the DR head, they're different lengths. The manual is very specific about which bolt length goes in which hole. The only problem is: the manual is wrong. So the less experienced guys put them where told and torque 'em. The short ones in the deep hole, pull the threads out. The long ones in the short hole, bottom out and the head (cam cover?) won't pull up tight. A little bit of force to tighten it and the bolt shears. The DR650 has several different length bolts holding the clutch cover on, you better get them in the hole they came out of.
Here's how we locate the right bolt in the right hole: Also note, the one at 1:00 o'clock has a rubber washer, pay attention.
Anytime you're putting bolts in a cover (or anywhere), they should have the same distance above the surface, 1/2" maybe. It will look and feel like this: Listen to yer pinkies.
If you get it wrong, you'll feel this and if yer payin' attention, you'll get the message and put the bolts in the right hole.
Uh-oh, bedtime, no more details.
With just the flat bar stock, I'd be concerned with lateral buckling. Much load at the end and the cantilever beam can try to "get away from" the load by shifting to the side. The flat bar on edge has little lateral resistance. A diagonal brace would help. Could be wire if it was an X-brace. But a cute project anyway.
BTW, with the water beads on it, funny how the top of the plastic tail light bracket looks so much like the metal rack material.
That could also describe some couples...
In the George Washington National Forest around here: http://goo.gl/maps/bNts
I thought about that too, and had planned to add some gussetting, but when I got it welded together, it easily held all 165lbs of me without flexing (even with all of my weight on the very back portion), so it should be good for 20-30lbs of stuff. It did hold up pretty nicely to 5 days of heavily loaded off road thrashing.
Also I think it might be nice if the rack bends during a crash. I do not want the rack so strong that it bends the subframe instead of giving way.
I assume you are trying to be nice and helpful, so thanks for taking the time to post
Looks like a lot of good riding. I was hoping it was a bit closer to me, but VA has a lot of mountains. I'm looking forward to seeing the videos. You guys had the perfect size group.
What's the zip-tie deal with the tire? Looks like a "mounting trick" or something.
Good explaination about the bolts. It's hard to believe that they can be so complicated.
I wonder why your bolts keep breaking and or stripping so easily? Cover bolts shouldn't need to be especially strong, especially considering that they're going into aluminum. I wonder if your torque wrench is faulty, or if your bolts have been previously abused, or something.
It's good to know that you can easily retap the sttripped holes to 8x1.25 threads from the 6x1.0 I thought you probably could, but wasn't sure.