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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by wickerman777, Nov 4, 2006.
Thanks folks for all the responses. I definitely have things to consider.
If you want to get extreme, I like woofer's idea of adding a second pair of turn lights., but they should be LEDs rather than a second pair of filament bulbs, because two filament bulbs on the same relay would not be good, though those electronic relays, sold for LED mods, would likely work for heavier loads as well. Adding an LED bulb to the existing filament bulb would probably not change the flash rate much.
OK, so I figured out the failing component- the charge/ignition coil on my stators is what has been going bad. It's been the same on all three of the stator failures in the past few months.
What is it that causes this coil to fail? The rest of the stator is fine, it's just that single piece that is, unfortunately, not serviceable, that keeps failing on me I want to know how to avoid yet more failures!
Knocking on wood, but i didn't change any other ignition component apart from a new stator with a fresh ignition /coil winding. Same issue as you beforehand. I did change my battery out for a new one. My old one would barely hold 12v. That's about, but I'm pretty the battery is completely seperate from the charge/ignition coil. Could the brand of stator be at fault? Were your other ones warrantied?
Getting kind of ragged and sun bleached .. like the rest of the bike. "It really ties the room together"
Hmm. Thats really weird. You're talking about the coil.. the thing that mounts to the frame right? Looks similar to this:
I had one go out on me. Would turn over but no spark..right?
If you've had it happen multiple times I'd look for a bad connection, bare wire, ... is the ground connected?
I think he's talking about the winding that is on the stator. On the earlier bikes this winding produced voltage that powered the ignition circuit (including the actual coil). The ignition circuit is separate from the charging circuit. It gets kinda confusing because of how Yamaha named things.
Damn.... that was funny. Glad you have a feng shui situation going on between raccoon and bike.
I have a 06 xt225 and I'm having carb issues.
When I hook up my carb and turn the gas valve open the carb just starts to fill up and and overflow out of all the holes coming from the float bowl.
I have thoroughly cleaned the carb several times, have put a carb rebuild kit on, and set the float height to the book's specs. The bike runes when started but continues to dump gas out. I have tried tapping the carb after hooking it up with a mallet and I just don't know what else to do
When a carb overfills with the motor off, the cause is most likely that the float valve isn't closing. Make sure the float can move freely far enough to close that valve, and check the float height. If they're OK, the float valve must not be sealing.
I'm not sure it's this part, but the parts blowups make it look like the valve. seat, and a seat seal, are sold as "Needle valve set", which isn't very expensive. If carefully cleaning the valve and valve seat hasn't fixed the problem, then I'd get a new set (check the actual carb against the picture in the parts list).
I let my bike sit for too long after an accident and it leaked as well.I found that getting the needle valve which looks like a rubber tipped rocket ship clean enough wasn't possible and it should be replaced.If your rebuild kit included that and it's new there was another part that my friend installed upside down that made it leak when he rebuilt it.If there was any part that you weren't sure of it's orientation you might reverse it and see if that helps.I could ask him and see if he remembers what part it was if you need me to.Lastly-are you driving every other day at least?I still have to make sure it doesn't sit too long or it will leak although with the petcock off it won't leak that much.
I had the same problem man. Its your float needle valve. The one with the rubber tip on it. The ethanol killed it. I know its frustrating. I ordered mine from bike bandit.
If you take it out of there it'll probably be all gunked up. . Mine didn't even move! Now I always put fuel stabilizer AND seafoam in my tank.
Hey if anyone knows where I can get an Alan key float bowl drain screw.. spill the beans.. mines fubared
swamp, seems like you could just take your old phillips head drain screw to your nearest hardware store, and pick up an allan head screw of the same size. Also look for a fiber washer to seal it.
Float valve is spring loaded so it has to freely spring back and forth.
Also there is an o-ring around the outside of the valve seat assembly.
Even if the valve and seat were working properly fuel could still leak by
The outside O-ring and overflow the bowl.I use Parker lube on my new O-rings too.
E-10 or 10% ethanol plays hell with everything rubber and then they talk of going to E-15...pure
Hell if that ever happens.Ethanol has turned me into a Fuel Injection lover.
I'm probably wrong but I thought the bowl drain screw had some sort of funky tapered tip on it.
We need a diesel conversion kit
Yeah, looking at the OEM parts list, I see the screw is actually just a valve to let the gas drain through that hose and pipe. I was just looking at the service manual, which doesn't show the hose and pipe (and don't have a carb on my XT250). Maybe you could just get a new OEM screw, and put a little Never-Seize on it, or just some grease.
Anybody know where to find the model # for a 2004 Yamaha XT225? I am trying to order a carb rebuild kit and Bikebandito wants to know if it is an XT225X or XT225XC (California model)... I don't see this info on the main sticker behind the headlight. Hope to order the correct part the first time. Thanks!
edit: It appears to have the California details as seen in the diagram above. Still would be nice to know where the model info is located.