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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by wickerman777, Nov 4, 2006.
We need a diesel conversion kit
Yeah, looking at the OEM parts list, I see the screw is actually just a valve to let the gas drain through that hose and pipe. I was just looking at the service manual, which doesn't show the hose and pipe (and don't have a carb on my XT250). Maybe you could just get a new OEM screw, and put a little Never-Seize on it, or just some grease.
Anybody know where to find the model # for a 2004 Yamaha XT225? I am trying to order a carb rebuild kit and Bikebandito wants to know if it is an XT225X or XT225XC (California model)... I don't see this info on the main sticker behind the headlight. Hope to order the correct part the first time. Thanks!
edit: It appears to have the California details as seen in the diagram above. Still would be nice to know where the model info is located.
You'd have to wait for Monday, but I've had good luck calling Yamaha US down in So Cal. They're happy to give you all the info based on the VIN.
I'm not sure if it applies to all years, but one of my manuals says that JYA4BEE... is a 49-state model and JYA4BEC... is a California model. My non-CA '03 is 4BEE so that seems accurate.
The emissions label is on the back of one of your side covers, though of course that assumes the plastic is original to the bike. California models had charcoal canisters from the factory; 49-state bikes didn't. Some people remove the canisters, but if you still have one, you know your bike is a CA model.
I saw a few xt s at Barber this weekend. Anybody ride theirs to the festival?
Me and my boy, he'll be 5 in January
Well, friends, my XT bit the dust, and hard this time. My buddy and I filled it with oil after our last stator change a week and some ago, then rode it for two hours last Saturday and then for four hours on Thursday and two hours yesterday. In the course of those eight hours, I guess all the oil was burned up and the piston seized.
Looking on Ebay, I only see piston kits from Chinese manufacturers. Are there any reputable companies that sell piston kits for our bikes? Any recommendations on the direction we take to resurrect this thing?
aTu, consider getting that piston out of the cylinder, before deciding what to do next. You might need to start over with a new cylinder, or bore out your old one, and install a big-bore kit.
If replacing the cylinder, consider going to a 2001 or later model, as I read that the bore treatments started with that year. Other inmates may have better info on that.
I didn't come across any big bore kits that were definitely not from China, but would feel pretty safe getting one from Amazon ($36).
Anyway, you could try googling XT225 big bore kit.
Would an XT350 motor fit?
If you ran it out of oil, the cam and it's bearings, as well as other related valve train parts, will almost certainly be damaged.
First off, why was all the oil burnt off?
Mine was because of piston wear, but after 54,000 km's, I felt it was about time anyway, and I was actually using a liter of oil every 1000 km's meaning more oil than a 2 stroke.
Yes. Wiseco and Yamaha both make the parts, but not kits that include the jug.
I just completed a top end rebuild. 3000 km's later, bike is running great!
As in reputable, if you're going to the trouble, use Yamaha parts. There is a good write up of ...can't remember inmates name at moment, who used the Wiseco, but it will give you higher compression. I didn't want to deal with any of that, so went stock. His works great, but he ended up changing the cam as well.
Bought my parts from RMATV after having them price match Partshark.
All in, I did the whole top end for under $275. Cheaper for you because you're in the states.
$45 for a gasket and valve stem seal kit. I used the Moose one. Seems pretty good.
$100 for .5mm over re-bore of cylinder (2000 and prior years are not Nikasil plated and MUCH cheaper)
$100 for Yamaha .5mm over piston, wrist pin, and retaining clips for said wrist pin.
Absolute hardest part was changing the valve stem seals. Make your own tool for this for under a dollar.
Same with pulling the rocker arm shafts. Use a 5lb weight and some flat washers on the rear brake actuator arm, or any other metric threaded rod that fits inside the shaft.
See my posts back a few pages.
First run out, my bike ran ridiculously hot.
I swear the oil was boiling.
Be very careful re. the intake boot between carb and cylinder. I ended up taking mine off and siliconing it, even though I checked with propane and sunlight looking for cracks.
You'll need the manual, especially when it comes to getting the timing correct upon reassembly.
Be very careful taking off the cam sprocket, it is plastic coated (not sure why...anybody?)
I'd guess because of piston wear as well. I haven't torn it down yet, but when I bought the bike a year ago, it had 3400 miles and no air filter, and it was a 1994. I opened it up as soon as I got it home and did all the good maintenance stuff- valves, carb clean, new spark plug, new oil, new oil filter, new air filter, new intake boot, new tires, new chain, etc. I surmised that the PO did NO maintenance to it whatsoever. As I cleaned the carb, I found little bits of what looked like dirt everywhere. I came to realize later that this "dirt" was the OEM air filter, having dried out and gotten sucked through. The bike has around 3550 miles now, so it's only been ridden about 150 miles in total since I purchased it, thanks to a series of bad stator issues. This will teach me to do a compression test first thing...
The bike has oil visible in the sight window if you tilt it 15 degrees to the right, so it's well below the low mark on the window. The motor won't turn over. The bike had never made it through a complete ride until two weeks ago, so we didn't realize it had such a severe oil burning issue- it smoked, but mostly on heavy throttle, and not nearly as bad as my XR650L, so I thought it was ok. D'OH.
In any case, the bike lives with my buddy at his place in the mountains, so I'll tear it apart when I'm up there next and take some nice juicy pics of the cylinder and piston for everyone's enjoyment Thank you so much for the help! I'm really hopeful the bottom end and valves/camshaft are still ok... If not, I may just look to do a swap. Will a TTR225 or 230 motor swap right in?
it seems to me that, if you're seeing oil when tipping it only 15 degrees, it should have had oil going through the system, maybe with a little air added in, but. . .
Are you sure it's seized? Did it come to a screeching stop, while moving?
Bike didn't come to a screeching stop. Rather, it wouldn't idle. It would run at higher RPMs, but if it idled for more than about 10 seconds, it died. My buddy and I both thought it could be a carb float needle issue- too much fuel getting in, overwhelming the system at idle/low speeds, and since it was being ridden by his wife who is a total novice, it was going very slowly. Buddy rode it down the hill and bump started it, came flying back up to us and encouraged her to get on quickly, which she didn't. Bike died, so he took off down the hill to bump start it again. He was unsuccessful the second time, and the bike wound up at the bottom of a difficult trail (he's a bit stubborn and didn't stop trying to bump start it on the easy trail), and he says the rear tire was just sliding around every time he tried to bump it, even in second and third gears. Since it wouldn't start, we thought it might have been the battery. We bought a new one and came back to it that night to replace the battery trailside, in the hopes that we could get it started and roar up the hill and back home. No luck- the starter motor felt like it was attempting to turn, but it wouldn't budge. We tried to turn the back wheel manually with the bike in 6th gear and still couldn't get it to turn.
At this point, the bike is at his place and is waiting for me to come up and examine it further. I should have pulled the stator cover crankshaft bolt access off and then tried to turn the crank manually, but it was really late when we got home and I was fed up.
Just think about how quickly you'll be able to remedy anything trailside after you rebuild this one!
PO must have really worked hard to destroy an engine in 5000km's, air filter or not.
I'd hold off on ordering parts before disassembly. See what you are going to have to deal with. No idling could be caused by extremely low compression. I've had this problem with outboards and it is usually indicative of ovalized or worn cylinder(s.)
Looking for possible aftermarket exhausts, but I don't want to change my jetting. Has anybody tried a Delkevik exhaust?
Dang. Someone stole both my motorcycles last night. Not really sure what to say.
Guess I'll keep watching Craigslist, does anybody here live in Alberta?