The rehabilitation of Sir Gustave Sabastian (‘Gus’)

Discussion in 'New Zealand' started by Box'a'bits, Aug 22, 2010.

  1. Mark_S

    Mark_S Fair Weather Faggot

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    yup

    I don't know if its an option on the alloy frame ones but my 06 steel frame one was road kitted by some illiterate mongrel at Yamaha Australia. Pretty bloody awful on the road but its a nice option to have.
  2. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair

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    Nice.
    The road registration (albeit that its on hold) is probably a value add on the old WR (i.e. it'll land you more cash). Couldn't be too hard to register the new one without a frame swap? Just a bit of cash for the inspection & licencing. Any material differences between the two bikes (aside from condition)?
  3. bart-nz

    bart-nz Been here awhile

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    Nice one Mark. I'm starting to get an itch for something like that.

    If only I could have 2 bikes. :cry
  4. Mark_S

    Mark_S Fair Weather Faggot

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    the new bike has no road kit so I either do the complete swop or just accept its a trail bike only. I cant tackle something that major until I build a new shed to do it all in.

    2 is about right - any more becomes a hassle.

    for a one bike scenario the dr650 is still one of the best options out there. Just fix the suspension, big tank, and 780 kit on it ....

    A TE630 would be a pretty good one bike option as well
  5. bart-nz

    bart-nz Been here awhile

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    The DR650 is a bit of an old clunker. It's kinda OK at everything, but not very inspiring. Certainly not powerful enough to scare the shit out of ya.

    Perhaps I need a project. Has anyone got an old beemer laying around. :evil
  6. innathyzit

    innathyzit AKA Woodman

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    This is now my plan. Have finally realised that the klr will never be a mx bike or a cross country weapon so it will no longer get farkle funds spent on trying to turn it into one. Instead, said funds will be directed towards some form of trailer trash to do some events and trailrides etc. Of course the klr will stay cos I like it so much and its worth almost nothing.

    Marks the TE630 look friggen nice, and not badly priced either.

    Maybe we should start a general yakking/talk bollocks thread so we don't have to hijack the BMW one
  7. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    There's plenty of room on the 350 band wagon :D
  8. Mark_S

    Mark_S Fair Weather Faggot

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    fair point

    we do have minimum standards you know
  9. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    Ok. Put on a loud pipe then...
  10. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair

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    Rainy day, I'm going out to the garage for some play time. Need to install these & also paint the Gilera forks, & change the fork seals & oils.

    I got caught out with the spoke & nipple purchase. Some shops include the grub screw. Boxer Supplies didn't. I bought new nipple heads in anticipation of issues removing the old ones.

    [​IMG]

    First up the gearbox oil sight glass. Really just a bit of bling, but lets me keep an eye on the level & color of the g/box oil.

    [​IMG]

    Replaced the stock paper air filter with a foam Uni Filter. I was a bit surprised when I took off the paper filter to find water in the filter housing. I assume this is from a poor seal on the paper filter, maybe from when I took the tank off to wash the bike.

    The Uni Filter allows me to clean it more regularly, and also offers some mitigant in case I drown the bike. A soggy paper filter would be the pits. Hopefully this won't require a rejet, as I've just got the carbs sorted.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    I also replaced the bent spoke. This was fairly easy. Soaked the nipple ends in WD40 for a while, to allow them to break any hold corrosion had on them, and to allow them to move more freely. Went to remove the grub screw (2mm allen key req'd) in the hub nipple (which uses a 5mm), and it actually moved the whole nipple. With that out, cut the spoke to make it easier to remove. Deflated the tyre to give me room to remove it. Put a tyre iron between the tyre & rim to push the tyre wall back, to allow the spoke to come out cleanly, then drifted it out.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Cleaned out the spoke head seating area on the rim, and also the nipple area on the hub. Used a bit of moly grease to ease the seating & stop corrosion.

    Tightened the spoke from the hub end. Used a punch to ensure the spoke head end in the rim was seated well. When I was satisfied the 'pitch' of the tensioned spoke was the same as others running the same way, I put in grub screw back in & tightened this up. All done.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    I re-used the spoke nipple & grub screw. The stainless ones I bought would have stood out. Also they use Torx fittings, which I have, but I didn't want just one on the wheel.

    I note that the spoke tensions on the wheel are all over the place. Sometime soon I need to go back & retension the lot to similar pitches.

    Mark_S, just so that I'm not mucking you around, definitely cannot make the MMMM ride this year. Had to make some rash promises to placate Mandy when the above arrived from the Netherlands....:cry. Apart from that work & finances just don't really allow.
  11. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    Nice .
    Ireplaced my old unifilter with a paper one. The gearbox oil sight glass is a great idea - I'll have to put that one on the wishlist.

    I still can't see why I couldn't replace all the spokes one by one like you did with your bad spoke. Might be time consuming however you'd keep the runouts within cooee I reckon...
  12. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair

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    From what I can gather, wheel builders won't touch 'tweaked' ones, because you can't use the spokes to correct the run out like more traditional rims.

    If you start with a straight rim, I can't really see what the issue would be? The tubeless rims are very strong (& heavy).

    Certainly the dealers are selling the stainless spokes somewhere.

    Re the sight glass, remember that you fill to the bottom threads of the filler hole. So technically you won't see oil in the glass unless you tip the bike slightly off vertical. But easier to check than taking that plug out. There are a couple of versions. I've just got the sight glass one. There is also a filler one. I didn't get that because I figured that'd end up getting fouled with my boots.

    [​IMG]
  13. Mark_S

    Mark_S Fair Weather Faggot

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    shit happens

    I may have to be back Sunday night it seems so I might just do the forest and around Waikaremoana out to Wairoa and back to Napier for Sat night then back home Sunday.
  14. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair

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    Started looking at the YZ 250F forks again, given RDubb's triple clamps are appearing in the vendors section. Not that I intend to buy these. But what has interested me are the dimensions shown in the plans. My understanding is these were originally set up to take the 43mm upside down KTM forks. The current run is for 50mm conventional KTM forks used in the early 2000's.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Note that the YZ offset appears to be 26mm (though I see in another forum that they thought this 25mm).

    The bottom YZ yoke look like it will will accept the BMW steering stem - so I am considering if I get a second hand one of them & press it in, or whether I get one made up. I don't want to use the one off my bike - that destroys the option of swapping backwards & forward during developement, and also destroys value if I sell them complete.

    The top bearing appears to be the same as the BMW ones. The bottom one seems different.
  15. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    You reckon you'll just drop them down in the yokes?
  16. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair

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    No the forks legs have a hourglass taper to them, so there is limited room to drop stauntions in the triples. At this stage I am thinking I'll restrict the travel to 225mm using spacers in the forks, and likely cut the springs.

    The forks came with a PDF manual, so I'm poring over that at present.
  17. Steve in NZ

    Steve in NZ scared/cheap

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    HI. anyone gor that PDF file of the sidestand to fit a GS that sits back further than the standard one. and stays down thanks
  18. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair

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    Recently came across Phreaky Phil's original drawings & thread. He would likely be the man to ask, given he was the originator of the initial versions that showed on the ADVrider site (albeit he copied from someone else).

    Barrie also posted he made one in the Kiwibiker Forum from Phil's drawings

    Carl (ADVrider) was making small runs similar to these (left picture), & is selling in the vendors section - I note he's out of R100GS stands at present, but has stocks of G/S, ST & strangely R80GS stands.

    Or there is the Migsel version (right picture), sold occassionally via the UKGSer site. Both bolt to the back engine mount.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
  19. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    But surely that'll make it ride higher in the front? Ithought that was the main reason for doing a mono conversion.

    Ah wait no-with the springs cut there'll just be more overlap betweene the outers & the stanchions? More chance of bottoming out the front? I don'tknow I'mjust throwing things around here. I'll see how you go as I spied the YZs in the shed again yesterday.
  20. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    They just become a very good handling pair of forks with 225mm of travel as opposed to a very good handling pair of 300 odd mm forks.


    Go on, you know you want to...


    After the rocks yesterday, I'm re-visiting using them on the TT. The first rock was usually ok but the next ones were a bit diabolical.
    Could also have been the 18psi in the front tyre though. The rear seemed ok with 14psi.