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Discussion in 'New Zealand' started by Box'a'bits, Aug 22, 2010.
Don't be bringing any nasty germs to my place, I don't need that right now.
I wouldn't have been very good company but you are both welcome another time
If you are going to be like that I'll stay at home then...
I wouldn't want me there either if I were you
Does your trailtech go mental sometimes? For some reason the revs go all over the place then it settles down. I'm hooked onto the coil.
It is quite cool tho seeing my max revs are 20 000RPM - well it is a shortstroke
I had a trail tech on my DRZ400 and the rev meter was all over the show as well. Never did get it running properly. It was installed "professionally" as well.
My revs were all over the place until I connected the power supply to the battery instead of the 6v AC...
Mine is a DRZ model - actually I don't think that means anything other than the mounting hardware. I did notice if I stopped & started for whatever reason it would go ok.
I'll do some research...
OK back again.
Apparently it is a common problem & the reasons range from interference, bad connections & incorrect ignition pulse settings. Solutions range from wiring the lead with shielded cable, checking connections, twisting the sensor wire around the Hi tension lead than the low voltage side of the coil, powering from another source, resetting or my favourite - wiring a resistor inline with the signal wire.
Sorry for hijacking Nutso - carry on!
Mine is connected into the coil & doesn't have that issue. I use the digital readout usually if I need this rather than the bar graph.
Power supply is direct from the battery - hooked onto the power supply for the relays feeding the headlight. These are actually in the headlight bucket.
The temparature gauge can be fairly optimistic however....
Repositioning the speedo sensor has cured all of the issues I had with the speedo not reading under 70kms. I suspect that the distance between speedo & sensor was too great, exacerbated by movement in the floating disc.
Oh apparently the ambient temp sensor is situated next to an LED which heats it about 5deg. I thought it a bit odd that it was reading about 30 deg today when I had 5 layers on (including 2 sections of a newspaper under my jacket) & was still chilly
At Padmei's request, I have documented & disclosed how much the fork conversion cost -
YZ250F rolling chassis -$800.00
Fork Oil -$20.00
Fork seals -$20.00
Dust seals -$39.95
Seal savers -$39.95
Fork Bushes -$93.00
Wheel bearings -$29.95
Steering head bearings -$68.26
Front Brake lever (YZF 250F mastercylinder) -$11.95
EBC Supermoto Brakes -$350.04
Front brake pads -$25.95
DRC fork compression value tool -$24.95
Machining stem -$65.00
Total bought -$1,609.00
YZ250F Rear mastercylinder, disc & caliper $75.00
YZF Swingarm $33.00
YZF Shock $75.00
Handlebars & clamp $50.00 (way too cheap)
YZF seat, tank, rear wheel & disc $400.00
YZF Plastics $65.00
YZF Nissin 11mm mastercylinder $75.00
Front Disc - not yet sold
R100GS Forks $800.00
Tokico Brake conversion $150.00
Trade me fees ? Haven't totalled
Total sold $1,723.00
TOTAL (+/-) +$114.00
Still may need to replace the brake line & I haven't sorted out the steering stops yet. To a purist, Gus is a Bitza. I think that it was worthwhile however. We haven't been thru a WoF, & I may still have issues with the modifications in that process.
While this doesn't actually form part of the sale of fork parts, I have just made an agreement to sell the following additional parts:
Tank, gas cap & petcocks $150.00
Speedo & tacho $200.00
Front Indicators $50.00
handlebars & grips $30.00
Total additional sales $430.00
It's hard to argue with that list, you did very well. I didn't think you'd get that much for the old forks and wheel.
this is just a cheap nasty ploy hoping that Mandy will see this and will be a little more receptive to your next proposal for depleting the family budget....
If you continue to do work of this standard you may end up getting landed with putting a wr450 front end on a klr.......
I should more correctly have said, GS forks, axle, triples, wheel, brake disc, caliper, brake line, & fork brace.
The GS front ends are sort after to replace accident damage, for the guys with G/S's to upgrade their weedy 35mm fork to, & also anyone hoping to built an airhead dirt bike or scrambler (twin shock or mono) from stockish parts.
Also, you just can't easily get cross lace wheels as spares, & their new value is enormous.
There is an element of truth in that... I have recorded & used this as a form of justification. But I might not have published it if Padmei hadn't asked for it
Shit those forks are like gold. Hmmm to sell them or keep them as an investment...
Did you sell the wooly mammoth head fairing as well?
Where did you advertise the forks?
Sold the front end via Trade me to a guy down in Otago. Thought about using Ebay, because I might have got more, but the hassle...
I'm compiling a list of other bits for sale for the guy now.
I'm going to swap the fairing for a 'Phreaky Phil' sidestand that a local BM rider is making up for me.
Met Mark_S (KLR), Stormtrooper (KLR), Steve (F650GS) & Steve (EXC520 Motard) at Rimutex. Unfortunately we miss timed our exit - & consequently had to follow Mr. Policeman across the Rimutakas. Have to say he wasn’t hanging around. He caught & passed Stormtrooper, but not Mark.
Regrouped at Featherston, then headed towards Martinborough looking forward to a Latte. But Mark’s KLR decided the thrashing he gave it over the Rimutaka’s was too much, dumped it coolant over his right boot. Mark later limped home – it turned out the water pump impeller has shit the bed. Here Mark is looking relaxed as he waits for it to cool down. The bike panels are off on the right side
Caught the other guys at Tui’s (Toppy’s) where EXC Steve & Stormtrooper were chowing on down to a big brunch.
On the gravel rd on the way to the Aorangi Forest Park.
The mudhole between the track & the Carpark was almost dried out. Someone had created a new entrance to the left.
Dunno. Don't think full leathers works well as an ADV riding suit. Extra points for riding skill taking a Motard in there though...
The track itself had more mudpuddles & bogs than I remembered on the way to the first stream crossing, & all the stream crossings seemed rougher with a lot of the silt & sand washed away. The track wasn’t getting any wind at all & it was bloody hot going in.
Stormtrooper had issues with a non functioning radiator fan (2nd cooling issue for the KLRs) & I discovered that the rise from the new triples had caused the chokes to stay partially on (need longer cables). I resolved this by disconnecting the cable.
Sutherlands Hutt itself had an amazing number of blow flies – fortunately none landing.
Steve found the F650GS a handful, & dropped it a few times, including one when I rudely barged passed thru a bog (he was teetering on the edge).
Once we were out it was decided to head to Martinborough for more water (& the possibility of a coffee top up). Tui’s was closed & the group split with EXC Steve & Stormtrooper heading for home, & the 2 GS’s heading for Ocean Beach.
By this time the wind was coming up. Have to say that Stormtrooper & EXC Steve missed the best part of the day. That ride was superb IMHO. For your enjoyment, here are some snaps.
Good day guys. Home about 6.45pm
So this was the first biggish offroad ride I'd done with the forks
As mentioned before they feel quite firm, & not as supple as I would like. I do feel some of the small irregularities in the road that I think these should just soak up. I may switch to 2.5w fork oil (using 5w, and no adjustment).
The forks definitely help give the bike a more planted feel on the road when cornering - you drop into the corner & it feels like it holds its line a lot better. This may be a combination of the narrower rim, & more rigidity in thie front.
There is far less deflection on gravel, especially crossing the middle heaps between wheel tracks. This is also apparent when on rough ground. Where on the stock front end you had a sphincter clenching moment, these just roll across.
I need to change the handlebars / risers - things are slightly too high at present, and are causiing issues with the throttle & choke cables.
I'll add to this as I consider the differences.
Great writeup Nutso & awesome pics. Ilove the ones of the baches - It'sad to think they don't make them like that anymore
It's a good feeling getting them out of the workshops isn't it.
Interesting your review of the new forks. I tried to take a very objective assessment of mine yesterday & apart from those butt clenching crossings of the built up gravel in the middle of the road they performed really well.
On the seal I could have easily scraped the valve covers if I wanted. They sucked up the dips & bumps of the irregular tarseal during braking without any adverse feedback. Accelerating out of corners they held their line & obeyed obediently when turning in later. On the gravel the slight bumps of rocks & were noticeable & this is where I wondered if the new shocks would be better - Do you stilll get the "bur dit dit dit dit " effect on gravel or is it smoothed out?
I haven't taken it really offroad with big dips etc & unsure how offroad I will take it.
These are stock shocks with probably the original fork oil in them.
Measure up the insides and git some Nators in there.
They're almost 50% off at the moment.