So there are quite a few of us who own 1100 and 1150 GSs that don't have an ADV tank and its fancy-schmancy crossover line. I happen to be one of them, and after a bit of of digging through the archives for a post that described how to build an internal crossover, I found it here. The picture link, however, is no longer functional. So here is my build of this device, with a handful of minor tweaks. Parts: I bought most of the components from McMaster-Carr. McM-C is an industrial supply house that will sell and ship anything to anyone with a credit card that doesn't bounce. They've got everything from a 2lb bucket of 70% moly paste to telephones. McMaster is the bomb. If you know what you're looking for, chances are its in the catalog. Anyhow. Tubing: PN 5187K75. QTY 5'. Yellow PVC tubing, rated for use with gasoline. It is very flexible and does not hold much of a bend. Brass fittings: PN 5346K36. QTY 2. You'll actually discard most of this fitting. Cut the threaded portion off first, then remove the swaged collar that remains. This gives you a stub of barbed fitting with just a bit of weight. These keep the tubing in the bottom of the tank. PN 91355K49. QTY 1 pkg. Just a 1/2" brass barbed tee. Nothing special, move along. You'll get a package of two. PN 7775K64. QTY 1. This check valve has a .3 PSI opening pressure and Flouroelastomer seals - they are immune to immersion in gasoline. It is also capable of being mounted in any orientation. .030" Monel lockwire. I used it because I'd salvaged a remnant spool out of a scrap dumpster at work. Any lockwire will do if you don't have easy access to Monel. A stub of 1/2" OD fuel hose. If I'd been smart, I'd have also bought PN 546K57. But I wasn't, so I used a stub of fuel hose jammed into the check valve end and pasted in place with JB weld. Got your parts? Good. Now, stick a finger down your throat and get to work. First, remove the torx screws holding the gas cap in place. If you've got an 1100, remove the allen screws. With the cap off and the filler neck loose, pull the filler neck up and out. The 1150 has a breather valve attached to the neck base with two struts. There are also two hoses attached - one to the plate for the water drain, one to the overflow for the charcoal canister you removed years ago. They can stay attached, there is enough slack they just pull up and out of the way. While this dries out, start assembling your siphon: Cut the hose into two 24" and one 6" pieces. Cut the brass male nipples on the barbed side of the wrench flats. Discard the threaded portion. Remove the remaining bit of swage from the barb by cutting along the axis 180 degrees opposite each other. Deburr the cut surface with a grinding wheel or file. Install a barb into each fitting and lockwire in place. The joint doesn't have to be horribly strong, all we're trying to do is keep the joints from coming apart. Install the long hoses to the Tee fitting. Lockwire in place. If you were smart and bought the proper barbed fitting to attach the tube to the check valve, good on yer. If you didn't, mix up some fuel-resistant epoxy and apply it to the stub of hose you're using to fit in the check valve. I used some from a fuel tank repair kit, the directions state it will cure while immersed in gasoline. Install the 6" section of tube over the remaining leg of the tee and the into the checkvalve. I used lockwire to first secure the hoses together and then to hold the hose on the check valve. I made a hole for the lockwire with a 1/8" drill. This is roughly where the assembly will sit. Poke two holes in the flange at the base of the filler neck, lockwire the checkvalve to the neck. This is good, but it isn't very stable. No worries, the 1150's canister valve provides a good place to add a strap. Now, with all that together, slip the legs down into the fuel tank. The left leg takes some snaking to get it to go behind the diverter plate in the 1150 tank, but it will go. The right leg falls into place. Work the filler neck back into place, even with the bulk of the checkvalve, it will go pretty easily. The whole project cost ~$50 and two hours of my morning.