The Way South

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by rockymountainoyster, Dec 19, 2012.

  1. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

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    Nice pics!
    Really enjoying that infinity one!
  2. GSteve

    GSteve Long timer

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    Nice one David! :clap
  3. Nordo

    Nordo GS Geezer

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    Wow.....:clap
  4. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    Thanks guys! Hey Steve! Right place, right time! I was on the deck next to the pool stretching my bum knee and there it was...timing!
  5. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    This was a good easy ride of a little over 100 miles. The cuota and libre pretty much parallel each other and the traffic is light on the libre so you can make pretty good time. As in so many places in Mexico they are doing road improvements so the libre will be as good as the quota in the parts that they are working on. I chose to take the cuota for the last part of the route so I wouldn't have to go through Esquinapa... just wanted to save time and get to the hotel I had reserved. The hotel, Playa Mazatlan, was recommended by Skip Mascorro of MotoDiscovery and is really first rate. I chose an Ocean Front room at $107/night, the most I have spent in Mexico, and it is worth every penny. The room is huge, the bed is comfortable, there is filtered water from a tap (I used the SteriPen anyway, better safe than sorry), the restaurant is good and if you book the room on line you get a credit voucher for $14/US which brings the room cost down to $93. While it is good and possible to be frugal here in Mexico (my dinner of birria and a beer in Acaponeta was delicious and cost $45 pesos around $3.75US) It is nice to splurge once in awhile on food and lodging. There are some great restaurants in Puerto Vallarta and the prices reflect the quality.

    Today on to the ferry around 1PM for a 4PM departure and 10AM arrival in La Paz. It will be great to see the sun setting over the Sea of Cortez... at some point during the voyage we will cross the Tropic of Cancer. Mazatlan is just South of it La Paz is North. The ferry is not cheap. For me, the bike and a standard room (recommended by many folks) it is $2733. MP or around $226. US. I am really doing it for the experience of an overnight sea voyage at the mouth of the Sea of Cortez. I am looking forward to it... the expected delays and hassles and all!
  6. going south

    going south hero & Zero...

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    My timing is not very good, I would have gone out to Villa Union and rode in with you, give you the 25 peso tour as it were.
    But duty calls and I am back at work...:deal

    Next time... :freaky
  7. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    That would have been great! Next time! My knee is better but I have not been enjoying a lot of "recreational" moto riding. Just trying to get home at this point. One day at a time!
  8. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

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    Rocky, when the knee heals up, you can use it to strike, abruptly and with great force, the small pair the Tourist Cop is trying to swagger with.:eek1
  9. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    Mike Mike if they had a pair they would be matadors or narcotraficantes... they don't pay them enough to have a set of anything.
  10. R-W

    R-W Been here awhile

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    Onboard! :happay
  11. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    The first, and last, time I was here was around this time in 1975, thirty eight years ago...the place has changed a bit. I arrived here on the 50 foot steel hulled ketch, Compass Rose. I was on a National Geographic Television assignment to try to capture blue whales on film. Now I am riding a blue and white whale up the Peninsula. I have been staying for three nights now at the Hotel Yaneka. This place can best be described as a total hoot...not to be missed even if you aren't staying here...it is a hotel with the most interesting rooms imaginable...each has a different theme...the place is cluttered with an amazing collection of "found objects", some might say "junk" Taken as the sum of its parts the place is a work of art, the inspiration of the owner Miguel...pix to follow...stay tuned
  12. Pedro Navaja

    Pedro Navaja Long timer

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    This explains much of your attitude and great photos :thumb
  13. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    Mexico 1...240 miles of mostly flat, boring, hot, two lane until about the last forty miles and then it gets interesting...you descend from the plains through the mountains on some beautiful twisty road...nothing at Puerto Escondido but a marina. Someone has put a lot of money into infrastructure there recently...concrete roads with street lights...curbs...big leveled tracts...looks like it is poised for development...Loreto is a sweet little town...not going to have time to do it right...some interesting buildings, inns and restaurants. Good coffee this AM at Fandango Cafe (fandango cafe loreto on facebook)
  14. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    135 miles with a long lunch stop in Mulege. The ride from Loreto is nothing short of spectacular. Almost 100 miles of nice windy roads, views of the Sea of Cortez, mountains, cacti, and many many vados. You do not want to be riding on this road during a storm or immediately after one. Torrents of water come rushing down off of the mountains and take the road out or leave debris in it and there a many of these washouts. Most of them are repaired but you can see the evidence of how violent a water and debris flow can be in these arroyos. I think I only crossed two, maybe three spots where the damage had not been repaired. Mulege did not impress me. I rode out to the lighthouse and found a little restaurant. The other two gringos there were from my town. Imagine that. Pretty damn big odds against that. We had a nice talk and great lunch and I rode on. Looked around the town a little bit... maybe there is a beach and I missed it... it was not a place I felt that I wanted to hang out. Stopped at Hotel El Moro just before Santa Rosalia. It looked great and is pretty nice, 480 pesos for a single, but there is no restaurant and they had only one f'ing beer. I look forward to a restful night and early start tomorrow.
  15. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    La Manzanilla Sunset

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    La Manzanilla

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    Figaro Restaurant and Art Garden, La Manzanilla

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    Does She Look Better the Morning After?

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    Well, this is about how I felt about all of it.
  16. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    [​IMG]

    Maxfield Parrish Sky
  17. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

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    The female idol is pretty much shouting, "fecundity".
  18. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    Kind of a meso-American theme eh. Especially this time of year.
  19. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    Crossed back into US at Tecate...no problems. More later.
  20. rockymountainoyster

    rockymountainoyster Been here awhile

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    4/23/13 - Santa Rosalia to Bahia de Los Angeles

    285 miles. The first 30 or 40 miles are a nice ride as you climb up to the high desert on a good twisty road. The road then gets flat and boring all the way to Guerrero Negro, 151 miles. On the day I rode it a cool front had moved in from the North and it was a pleasant ride. For the first time since Veracruz I zipped up the vents on my riding jacket. There is no fuel between Santa Rosalia and Guerrero Negro so make sure to fill up in SR. You don't have to go into Guerrero Negro for fuel, there are a couple of Pemex stations as you head North to the BC Sur and BC border. The state border is the 28th parallel of latitude. You also reset your watch to Pacific time there. I was making good time so I decided to drive the 43 miles (60km) out to Bahia de Los Angeles. I am glad that I did, it is a great place, beautiful... there are several lodging options... I stayed at Costa del Sol where Doña Victoria runs a tight ship. A big shout out to Cameron Steele of Desert Assassins who compacted his crew a bit to make room for me at the inn. Check out his upcoming Baja event at desertassassins.com. He is a knowledgable Baja hand. There are two Pemex stations within 100 meters or so of each other in Bahia de Los Angeles. One of those curiosities of Mexico... they need a station out by the highway... the one that is there is long abandoned. Mexico can have its hazards. I ran into a couple of young airline pilots who had flown down from Dallas in a little Experimental aircraft... they were there to have a few drinks and go fishing... having "a few drinks" with a couple of young airline pilots who have a few days off can be very hazardous. I was not too fit for duty the next morning but got it moving... the road, Mex 12, back out to Hwy 1 is a nice ride through the cactus forest. Pretty extraordinary really. I definitely recommend Bahia de Los Angeles.

    Guerrero Negro
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    BC Sur/BC Border

    GN is a windy, and on the day I was there kind of cool, place. Unless it is late and the day and you want to stop there is no reason to go into GN. As you approach the Y in the road that leads to town you will notice off to the right a huge Mexican flag that flies over the Army post that is situated on the border of BCS and BC. There are Pemex stations there and you can fill up and continue North... make sure you fill up because there is no fuel until you get to La Rosaria. There is a guy with barrel gas at Cataviña if you happen to forget everything that everyone has said about filling up at GN. If you do go into GN there is a great place for carnitas, Carnitas Michoacan, right next to the first Pemex that you come to on the right. If you are interested in taking a whale watching trip GN is a good place to do it. "Scammon's Lagoon", (Laguna Ojo de Liebre) is a known site for seeing Grey Whales and their offspring during the calving/migration season. The weather was not inviting and I wanted to book my way North so I filled up with gas, the bike tank and two auxiliary cans I carry on Best Rest peg packers. The range on my fully loaded GS, riding at around 70 mph for hours at a time, is about 200 miles until the reserve light comes on and then I have maybe 40 miles if I am lucky until it runs out.

    4/24/13 - Bahia de Los Angeles to San Quentin

    226 Miles - There is a mix of nice windy roads through the mountains and long straight stretches. Hwy 1 in Baja has some really nice surprises in terms of scenery and interesting riding. The road surface is in pretty bad shape for much of it, no problem on a GS even with a leaky front Ohlins shock. I fueled up at Bahia de Los Angeles and my reserve light came on right at 200 miles at El Rosario. I stopped and got fuel there. Did not make the obligatory stop at Mama Espinoza's, in fact I did not even see it. There are two towns there, Rosario de Arriba, which is on the highway, and El Rosario, which you have to turn off the highway to go into. I had been told about some hotels further up the road and I wanted to get closer to the border so I went on. When I got just outside San Quentin, at Rancho Los Pinos, I saw a sign for the Hotel Mision Santa Maria and decided to check it out. I had stopped at its related hotel in Cataviña. It is a very nice property out in the middle of nowhere but I found its $97 US/night a bit of a gouge. It is in the middle of nowhere and there is no other option. Fulling expecting the Mision Santa Maria to be similarly overpriced I was elated to see that it was only $500 pesos/night plus taxes of $70 pesos. This was one of the best finds of my whole trip and I highly recommend it if you are up for a beautiful, spacious, relaxing, quiet place with a good restaurant. The hotel is in the middle of a huge area of hothouses for the growing of tomatoes, cucumbers, rasperries... mostly for the US market. The hotel sits on the Bahia de San Quentin right between the 30th and 31st parallels. There are other good hotel choices in the area: back at El Rosario is the Baja Cactus, in San Quentin there is the Baja Jardines and Molino Viejo, a gringo favorite. Still further North, at Colonet is the very new and nice looking Paraiso (Paradise). I was really happy with my choice of Mision Santa Maria. If I had not needed to close the distance to the border I would have stayed there another night... I was tired after two long days in the saddle. I find riding in Mexico to be more tiring than in parts of the US, the necessary level of alertness to changing road and traffic conditions just takes more out of you. I don't recommend riding long miles with a hangover... full presence is important! Damn those young pilots who led me astray from my clean living ways... just because the bottle of tequila is on the table doesn't mean that you have to keep pouring from it!

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    Hotel Mision Cataviña,, BC Mexico
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    Hotel Mision Santa Maria, Los Piños/San Quentin, BC
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    4/25/13 - San Quentin to Valle Guadalupe, Posada Inn Mision de Guadalupe

    158 miles. This was not that long a ride but it was a pretty tough day. The winds were pretty fierce and were moving me around in my lane. When a big doble remolque would come from the other direction the turbulence was something to reckon with. For the most part the road is not interesting until you get closer to Ensenada and there is not much habitation and some great mountain road riding. Some very nice smooth well banked curves and some not so smooth or well banked and of decreasing radius. It is enough to maintain your interest! Getting through Ensenada was easy. That place has changed a lot since I was last there in the seventies and early eighties. I had already decided to take Route 3, the Ruta de Vino up to cross the border at Tecate. The Posada Inn at Rancho Maria Teresa was a very nice stop. Unfortunately, no wi fi.
    something that has become important to me. The restaurant is very good but it closes at six, earlier than I like to eat usually. The room was comfortable with a good hot shower. Friday morning (4/26) I met and had a good conversation with Don Jose Joachin Santana the dueño of the rancho. He pioneered the place starting in 1959. He raised his family here and makes some good wines from the grapes grown on the property. He offers a tasting tray of six varietals and one blend in the restaurant. The grounds are beautifully planted with lots of flowers, the vineyards are adjacent, there are two nice swimming pools and a large public room with a nice pool table. A big plus for me was the coffee bar where you can get a very good latte or capuccino. This particular Mexican wine region is probably about where the Napa Valley of California was when I visited it for the first time in the early seventies. It is close to the border, crossing at Tecate is pretty easy. If you are up to a short trip to Old Mexico from SoCal or Arizona I would recommend this place. For dinner I had perfectly prepared quail and breakfast was a really good machaca Sonora style.
    Hotel Posada Inn Mision de Guadalupe, Rancho María Teresa, Ruta 3, Valle de Guadalupe, BC, México.
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    4/26/13 - Valle Guadalupe - Posada Inn to Carlsbad, CA

    131 miles. A pretty easy day's ride from Valle de Guadalupe to Carlsbad, just North of San Diego, south of Oceanside. The border crossing was easy for me on a moto, not so easy for the folks in cars and trucks lined up for a considerable distance on both sides of the border. I can only imagine what a nightmare Tijuana must be. It took about 45 minutes to: find Banjerito, have customs and Banjercito look at the bike and clear the TVIP and get back to the line at the border. I was waved on to the front of the line and in minutes had crossed back into the US. Thank you Mexico for 4 and a half wonderful months. My knee is still a nagging problem but is getting better. Will see a Sports Medicine doc next week. Tonight box seats at the Padres v. Giants game at... is it really called Petco Park? For sentimental reasons I will be quietly routing for San Francisco, the New York Giants were a childhood fave and my San Francisco buddies are rabid fans. Nice way to re-enter the homeland and the "safety and security" of the US of A... wink, wink. Dinner last night Flying Pig in Oceanside, a really good menu with a lot of pork dishes, good salads and a great list of microbrews on draft and in the bottle.