The "what the hell are you thinking?" build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by SloMo228, Jun 7, 2013.

  1. Ockrocket

    Ockrocket Long timer

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    Is that some Spectra red plastics I see in one of the photos?

    I'm in Australia and am in need of a front fender in Spectra red for my '99 model 50th Anniversary GL1500SEX, and the right hand [or full set] of crash bars.

    Please PM me if you can help me out.

    I'm interested to see WTF a naked GL1500 would look like in street legal mode too. :hmmmmm
    :lurk
    #21
  2. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    I've sold most of the extra plastics, but I do still have a box or two of extra parts, though. I'll check to see if I have extra crash bars. I know I don't have any fenders, though.
    #22
  3. Ockrocket

    Ockrocket Long timer

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    Thanks SloMo.

    Ping me a PM if you find some suitable bits. :freaky
    #23
  4. Roadracer_Al

    Roadracer_Al louder, louder, louder!

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    Hey there Slo Mo.

    I briefly owned an 1100 Interstate. Also had a friend with a 1000 rat bike. I've always thought the early 'wings were cool in their own way.

    Is there any way you can get a look at the 1800 manifold to see how they mounted originally? You probably don't want the injectors sticking too far into the port or they will spray liquid fuel onto the opposite wall, making nasty tuning problems you'll never be able to work out. With that in mind, you want to aim the injectors pretty much directly at the port.

    As a hobby machinist, here's my take on the injector mod: you'll need access to a milling machine, a lathe, and a TIG welder. I would expect that you'll need the lathe to turn bosses for the injectors -- the manifold is probably not thick enough to seal the injector.

    You'll need to figure out how to fixture the manifold so the axis of the new injector holes is perpendicular to the bottom of the fixture. There are milling machine tilt tables which are tremendously useful for this kind of job:

    [​IMG]

    However, a welded mild steel fixture (could, literally, be salvaged junk like old bed frames) which picks up the manifold bolts and captures the "free end" somehow (a plug, a clamp, whatever) would be fine. If the fixture works for both manifolds, so much the better!

    The actual installation of the holes is mostly a challenge of getting all three located in the correct places, and at the correct size. You could use a digital caliper to do this, or a "DRO" (digital read out) on a mill.

    Personally, I wouldn't use AlumaBraze in a high vibration environment: it's mostly tin, which is brittle. And, once you've used it on a part, it would be impossible to go back and TIG weld over it -- the tin would severely contaminate the weld.

    What are your plans for the butterflies?

    I've recently ordered a MicroSquirt for a Ducati project. I'm pretty confident about the hardware installation, but panicking a bit about building the ignition curves and EFI maps. I, too have been reading a lot on line, but haven't found any "library" of user maps to use as a starting point.
    #24
  5. pennswoodsed

    pennswoodsed lizards,bugs and me

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    I think a search of the car/racecar sites will turn uo weld on injector bosses for adding injection to intake manifolds.
    #25
  6. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    Finally got the big beast into my own garage. Should start making some progress in the coming weeks, although my wedding is in 2 weeks and the subsequent honeymoon will take up some wrenching time, too. :cry
    #26
  7. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    Good to know about the AlumaBraze. I can probably get a local welder to TIG the injector bungs in place for me for an acceptable price, or I could give it a go with my MIG welder. I do have two sets of manifolds in case I screw one up. The injector bungs themselves I'll be ordering premade from one of the various DIY EFI suppliers. I can get a set cheaper than having them made locally.

    For butterflies, I'm not sure yet. I'm not entirely sure whether I'll be using two throttle bodies or one, honestly. I am leaning toward using one for simplicity of design, and will probably use an automotive throttle body from something like an Escort or similar.

    And yeah, it's the software part of the installation that has me most concerned, too. I know that there are some successful GL1500 MS builds out there. Hopefully I'll be able to find a map to start from. I do have a friend that recently finished an MS install on a VW Corrado, though, and from what he has told me, it's fairly intuitive once you start actually working with the software.
    #27
  8. Roadracer_Al

    Roadracer_Al louder, louder, louder!

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    Aluminum wire won't feed well through a MIG gun unless you get a "spool gun" - it puts the wire and feed motor right on the torch. Seems like a PITA to me.

    You could probably use the old carburetors for butterflies. Just gut them and blank off all the jets & diaphragm, etc. You'd then just have to come up with a TPS.
    #28
  9. k-moe

    k-moe Long timer

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    Lumiweld rods are utter crrap for anything other than cosmetic repairs, or sticking pop cans together so you can sell more Lumiweld rods :rofl
    #29
  10. CruisingRam

    CruisingRam Frankenbike builder

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    MIG spool guns don't do thinner stuff well either, or dirty aluminum. They suck pretty much for most MC applications. Tig is your friend.
    #30
  11. Whale Rider

    Whale Rider Been here awhile

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    So are you able to lift the the manifolds up 3/4-1 inch if so why not fit the 1800 manifolds with a piece of aluminium between them 3/4" thick with countersunk srcews in to the 1500 heads and machined reliefs for the injectors and tapped holes for the 1800 manifolds I see from the picture that the intake porting is the same spacing. Then if the 1800 manifold has bigger porting you can tapper the holes back to the 1500 head port size to make the inlet tracks smooth.
    Just a thought.

    WR
    #31
  12. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    Diving into the EFI part of the project is going to have to wait a while until the funds are there. I'm a law grad waiting on bar results - otherwise known as broke and unemployed. But I do have a small stock of random bits and parts, and I have a lot of free time.

    I put a headlight on and set an old Kawasaki tank I had left over from a previous project on the bike:

    [​IMG]

    The tank is going to need some cutting to fit, but it's rusted out and pinholed on the bottom, so it's not like I have anything to lose cutting it up. I had planned on building a fiberglass tank, but I effin' hate working with fiberglass, so if the steel tank will work, all the better.

    Then I cleaned up the fuel pump hanger and fuel lever sender. The pump hanger was pretty crusty to start:

    [​IMG]

    I knocked off the loose stuff with a wire brush and then put a couple applications of naval jelly on. They cleaned up pretty well:

    [​IMG]

    I will be replacing the original fuel pump with a high-pressure pump. I may need to change the fittings since they're just standard clamp-on flare fittings that might not be up to the task of sealing high-pressure fuel. We'll see, I guess. Gonna have to stock up a couple more fire extinguishers once it comes time to test the fuel system! :rofl
    #32
  13. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    That's not a bad idea. I'll have to do some checking to see if the 1800 manifold is the same width. That gives me another idea, too - It might also be possible to just put the 1800 heads on the 1500 block, if that's the case then I'd be able to just bolt the 1800 manifold, injectors, and throttle bodies right on.
    #33
  14. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    A little work with a cut-off wheel and the tank shell is freed from the bottom:

    [​IMG]

    It sits a little better on the frame now:

    [​IMG]

    Still needs some trimming. As it is now, the tank sits inside the frame. I'm thinking about cutting out the middle section of the tank and welding in a strip of steel to widen it so that it sits outside of the frame and covers a bit more up.

    Also, the stock radiator fans are going to have to go. I mocked up the intake manifold and with the fan in place, there's not enough room for the injectors/fuel rail. Anyone know a good cheap source for surface-mounted rad fans? I'll be trolling eBay, of course, but if someone knows off-hand where to find a slim fan about 3-4" diameter, I'm all ears.
    #34
  15. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    I figured I'd let ideas of what to do with the tank shell percolate for a while; it's not a critical part of the project anyway. I'm turning my attention to stripping down the factory wiring harness:

    [​IMG]

    This thing is monstrous. It must weigh at least 10 pounds by itself, and there are more circuits, fuses, and relays on this than there are in my car. It's going to take a while and a lot of studying of the wiring diagrams to figure out what is what and clip the unneeded stuff. Although I do have to decide if I want to keep any of the GW niceties like the onboard air compressor or reverse "gear" mechanism. :lol3
    #35
  16. PathLessTraveled

    PathLessTraveled Adventurer

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    This -
    Reminds me of this-
    [​IMG]



    Your bike is going to be too cool.
    :super
    #36
  17. Roadracer_Al

    Roadracer_Al louder, louder, louder!

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    You could try finding a Valkyrie tank, too.
    #37
  18. RedRaptor22

    RedRaptor22 Been here awhile

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    I've seen lots of the air cooled guys who add oil coolers and fans use computer case fans or processor fans with good luck.

    They run on 12v dc and have sealed motors....and usually are cheap as dirt $15 or less for a 6" or less brand new from places like newegg or tigerdirect.
    #38
  19. RedRaptor22

    RedRaptor22 Been here awhile

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    And that reminds me of this!
    [​IMG]
    #39
  20. boardrider247

    boardrider247 Weekend Anarchist

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    I was thinking the same thing. A computer fan is cheap and in that 3-4" range.

    BTW if you want anything TIG welded feel free to shoot me a PM.
    Over the winters I generally have lot's of free time and like to help out. If you are willing to ship parts I can do some welding free of charge.
    #40