The Wife takes on Chlamydia. A South American Retrospective

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by ChrisUK, Mar 6, 2017.

  1. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2004
    Oddometer:
    747
    Location:
    God's Own County
    Huaraz to Huaraz = A loop of the Cordellierra Blanca

    Last time in Huaraz in 2001 I stayed in a hostal next to a poultry transport depot (there was no chance of sleeping in... but the people running it were cool, it had off street bike parking and was cheap). I staying in the same place again in 2016 after working out where it was on the iOverlander map. Conveniently the chicken business had moved elsewhere. In 2001 I also trekked through the Huascaran National Park. Not this time though with my totally shattered knee and more "relaxed-six-pack appearance". But I did ride clockwise around the Nevado Huascaran Sur peak via Yungay, into the next valley to the east and back over to Carhuaz and Huaraz. Some of this route was new to me and never has it been more satisfactory to end up back where I started after 2 superb riding days.


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    Navigation wasn't difficult



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    The obligatory selfie pose for Facebook. I've learnt that even the crappiest selfies capture more attention in terms of likes than well composed landscape or bike pictures... Maybe I should have taken a couple of inflatable kittens with me so the selfie would be even more popular?



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    In 2001 I rode with Richard and Christine who were on their own RTW trip. on a BMW R75/5



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    A posed hardcore - adventure - ultra - extreme - action - puddle - shot? Of course not! :-)



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    That's what I've just ridden



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    A 2001 image take on the same road



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    And in 2016 I have the track log as a souvenir too



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    Breathtaking (I recall the pass went close to 5000m) with breathtaking views



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    What a feat of civil engineering



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    More self indulgence



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    Myself with Richard on the pass



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    Down the other side: What a surprise. Lush cultivatable land and a footy game to spectate



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    I think the sheep responsible for cutting the grass missed a couple of bits... I tried name dropping that my favourite Peruvian player was Nobby Solano, but nobody appeared interested.



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    Peruvian lady explaining the offside rule?



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    2001: Not sure how this image fits in with this story, but had to shoehorn it in somewhere!



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    2001: Man weaving



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    The view from hostal balcony. Not bad for 4 bucks a night. Clean, warm water, parking. What else do you want? The place around the corner wanted 25. Up Yours Delors



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    Setting off the next morning



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    On their merry way



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    Tunel Punta Olimpica



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    At the pass back into the Huaraz valley I met this friendly Argentine couple driving their small Renault car from Argentina to Alaska. Who really needs a winabagel?

    Following their blog at https://www.facebook.com/Pateandoamerica/ they have made it to the United States.



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    What a view!



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    An alpinist's paradise. And a biker's too



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    Paved twisties rather than bumpy gravel on the way back down



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    Daylight navigation straightforward
  2. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2004
    Oddometer:
    747
    Location:
    God's Own County
    Through the Cañón del Pato to the coast to Chiclayo


    In preparation to writing this chapter of my ride report, I Googled the name Canon del Pato in order to check the correct spelling. The 3rd hit, below 2 Wikipedia entries is in German (I'm writing this in Germany...) and claims this route to be "the most adventurous in the mountains of Peru". Clearly the author thinks that hyperbole is important and hasn't actually driven or ridden far in Peru. It was fun and worth the trip, but since it has been paved (as virtually everywhere in Peru) it is a great deal tamer than it was. It follows the river valley and passes through multiple tunnels that were original intended to have a railway running though them. Whether 2001, 2016 or today, it's a great route to take to/from the coast.

    After leaving Huaraz, I continued north to Caraz where I had spent New Year 2000 with Richard and Christine


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    The view from the hotel window. Here's the startline to the 2016 Peruvian F1 Grand Prix at Caraz. Front row is Hamilton and Vettel, second row is Dick Dastardly and Muttley. It certainly sounded like it with these unsilenced 2 stroke tuk tuks took off from the lights. Thankfully I had ear plugs to aid night time sleeping.


    A 2000 New Year's memory: kids transporting a stuffed effigy to where it was going to be burnt as part of the celebrations. I recall we spent the time drink red wine and eating soft sweet cake.


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    The view on the ride into the Cañón del Pato



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    One of many tunnels in 2016, paved


    And in 2001, unpaved. Here Richard and Christine on their R75/5

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    I recall we stopped somewhere near here for lunch in '01. The bloke waving in the background clearly remembers us :-)


    2001: Not quite the identical place....


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    Upon reaching the coast, the bits of the Peruvian section of the Panamerican Highway that I rode were the dirtiest, smelliest, most pointless and boring road in the whole of South America. Who says I don't like using hyperbole myself? ;) However the pleasant hotel in Chiclayo and the sunset at this surfer's hangout were worth it. Although I didn't see many surfers...



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    Straw fishing paddle boards in 2016


    And the same in 2001:

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    One old (ex-surf?) gringo queen did make it to Chiclayo...



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    Virtually no gringos (good), but plenty of locals enjoying themselves (good)



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    Catching supper?



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    Fishing, selling lottery tickets and heading for a swim



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    As it's Christmas 2017 when I write this and you should really be celebrating with your people (like me....), Cheers and all the best for 2018!
  3. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2004
    Oddometer:
    747
    Location:
    God's Own County
    Chiclayo to Cajamarca to Kuelap Ruins

    The north east of Peru from Chiclayo to Cajarmarca to the Kuelap Ruins and the border with Ecuador is most definitely not on the Gringo trail. I was pleased to see virtually no Europeans, nor North Americans. A great chance to only speak Spanish and ride more superb twisty roads and a detour over the mountains around a landslide. The weather was changeable. From dry and arid to lush and green with blue skies to wet and misty.



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    Interesting looking cactus growing out of a rock face



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    About 30 miles before Cajamarca, there was a big landslide across the road that was being cleared by proper earth moving equipment, but not any time soon. There was a paved 100 mile detour, but I reconed there might be a shorter alternative route over the mountains and as it hadn't rained for a while, probably not too technical on the old Chlym with road biased tyres. Navigation was interesting: Just with the GPS giving me a as the crow flies direction indicator. I came upon this young girl carrying her sister and what's probably the grocery shopping. I'm not sure she had seen a European before. Certainly not one on a motorcycle.




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    Her way home. My route.



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    Eventually back on the main road



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    I think this lady thinks I can't see her!



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    Pleasant rural views



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    Getting more and more hilly, with more curvy roads



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    Occasionally following a river. Weird mossy stuff hanging off the trees



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    Happy locals on the way to the Kuelap Ruins



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    Kuelap Ruins on the ridge top right, I rode up those serpentines on the far left. And a farmer looking at me, centre right



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    The ruins in 2016. Virtually nobody else there. Hard to walk up there with a totally Donald ducked knee. If you're interested in reading more, please check out https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kuélap



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    Llama in the mist at the ruins in 2016


    Kuelap in 2001

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    Interesting rock carvings



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    I think I can guess why it's called the Ancient Fortress of the Cloud Warriors...
    powderzone likes this.