The XL600 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.

  1. Schrauberklaus

    Schrauberklaus ***ifyer

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    If the Adapter is well made then its most of the Time the new Engine or the Carbs are not correct ajust that make the power worse .
    Air flow over two seperate Intake Ports is different to the Airflow over 1 Split type Port .
    Carbs need to ajust for that .
  2. bdcorrigan

    bdcorrigan Been here awhile

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    South Of Portland Oregon in the Burbs
    Did Zombiestomp do some kind of single carb conversion a while back to his RFVC?
  3. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    It seems like he did but I'm not sure.

    At one time, I had an XR650L engine in my '84 XL600. I used a 38 mm Mikuni flat slide carb with a universal Uni foam filter clamped to the carb. It worked fine. The filter did rub on the shock spring though.
    The Mikuni barely fit between the tank and frame. I'm pretty sure the stock XR650L would not fit.
  4. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    Here's a couple pics of it.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It had an XRL front end on it at the time as well.
  5. 67FLAT4

    67FLAT4 Adventurer

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    Apr 20, 2010
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    San Jose CA
    So I've never done fork seals before, but am good with a wrench. I'd like to order parts and have them ready for when I pull the forks. I've got 2 ?s first is what parts should I replace looks like part 22 on the phish are any other parts needed? and how much oil to put back in?
    my fork seals are leaking. (I did seach this thread on fork seals)
    Thanks :cromag
  6. Andyvh1959

    Andyvh1959 Cheesehead Klompen

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    Da frozen tundra eh? 1.5 mile west of Lambeau
    Here's my $200 basket case XL600. I repainted the tank with an Elsinore theme. Some top end work, new cam chain and intake valves, thats about it. I can start it on the 5th kick (no decomp release). Torque like a John Deere. But too big and no electric start for trails riding. So this will become a retro-motard as I now have an 04 DRZ400E as my trail/dirt bike.

    Well, there would be a photo if I knew how to post it.
  7. lookfar

    lookfar from the land of OZ

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    Have a look here.
    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919
  8. georgej

    georgej Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the reply shortlife.I'm planning on replacing all the cables,changing the brake fluid etc.I'm going to try and take the black paint off the frame also.Hopefully the Honda red is baked on and durable.I paid $1100 for the bike and plan on spending another $300-$500 setting her up to ride. I figure for under $2000 I'll have a pretty nice bike for playing on dirt roads.
  9. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Been here awhile

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    20 mins west of portland oregon
    the honda paint is fairly tough stuff but....id expect to have to repaint anyway....if you want something tough and dont feel like powder coating see if you can find someone who sells tractor paint..the international harvestor red is close enuf..and tough as nails but you may need to hit up an ag store for it
  10. georgej

    georgej Been here awhile

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    I'm not too awful worried about the black on the frame.I'm more concerned about the black on the carbs and making sure all the cables and front brake line is good.The bike doesn't look that bad.As long as she's functional I'll be happy.Cosmetics come second.
  11. BRPtourer

    BRPtourer Been here awhile

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    If the paint on the carbs is just cheap spray bomb stuff a good carb cleaner will usually take it off. I prefer Berkibile 2+2 Gum Cutter in the blue and red can, some of the others like Gumout and store brands seem pretty weak.
  12. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Been here awhile

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    20 mins west of portland oregon
    CRC red can is tough stuff too..gumout leaves an oily residue behind...brake clean will do as well but you better have all the rubber off or void hitting it lol....it tends to swell up rubber for a lil bit before it urns back to normal


    something i should note for ANYONE striping paint....a brake fluid soak is generaly safe on 95% of most items..with the exception being certain plastics..specificly that of turn signals and tail lights...but is ultra safe on other plastics..as ive been using the same tub (a cut down antifreeze jug) for doing 24 and 25th scale model cars for over 15 years..and only had it soften the plastic a few times..but after a wash its as good as new..ive used brake fluid to remove paint from tins, plastic bike fenders, pretty well everything under the sun..but it will disolve most tail lights
  13. Watcher

    Watcher Adventurer

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    Bay Point Ca
    When we first got the 86 I didn't know much about the oil flowing to head issue and ended up running around on the bike for 20 or 30 minutes with no oil, none, getting to the top end. I had been wondering if that did any damage, and after riding around for 500 miles or so she started getting hard to start. Pulled the engine out and found the cam and rockers were ground up. The Center journal in the head had scoring as did the mating journal in the rocker cover although that was much lighter.

    [​IMG]

    I did find what looks like a decent head, valve cover, and rockers over on E-bay, so those are on the way, but I am still looking for the cam. I could send the original to Megacam but the total cost is somewhere north of $270 ( the center has to be repaired which adds to the cost as well as California Tax). So I am looking for a less expensive alternative; for reference, the prices listed on the fiches for a new one is around $140, which of course are no longer available.
    This was posted over in the thread Early (85-87) XR600R/XL600R Camshaft options ???

    So I am wondering if anyone else has gone this route and what if any modifications would have to be done. There seem to be plenty of rocker covers, rockers, and cams available for anything newer than 87. If not I am still in the market for a cam.
  14. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    Watcher,

    As far as finding an OE XL600 cam goes your up the creek without a paddle. I just checked E-Bay England and Germany. No cams there either. Your only option is a Mega Cycle regrind/repair.

    BTW...They will not warranty the cam unless you do the rockers also. By the time all is said and done it's $500.00 for the cam and rockers. BTDT
  15. the_tulip

    the_tulip Adventurer

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    Oct 23, 2011
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    13
    Trying to remove the kickstarter decompressor lever to replace the seal. Can't seem to figure it out. Can anyone help me out here? Here's some pictures. Thanks.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the inside of the kickstarter decompressor lever, do I have to remove that pin?
    [​IMG]
  16. smile431

    smile431 Adventurer

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    North Carolina
    I have a xl600 that I am thinking about selling due to lack of time to work on it. Since I bought it I have been working 7 days a week if anyone is interested let me know.. parting out is a possibility but it does have a clean title. For pics check out project deep doodoo thread.:freaky
  17. Watcher

    Watcher Adventurer

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    Steve, thanks for checking those overseas sites, that's something I never thought of. I will keep looking for a few days but if nothing comes up I will go with Mega Cycle. I didn't know there was a warranty either. They did say I could use the OEM rockers but recommended a high zinc content oil like Red Line if I was going to do that.
    All the above is for the 86. When I put the 83 back together I replaced one rocker with an NOS one and the cam had one lobe that was just at the lowest end of the spec. It makes me really interested in that idea of replacing the rocker cover with one off an XR600 and then going with a post 1988 XR cam to put on the 83. With this possibility in mind I did some checking on E-bay today, the cost of the Rocker cover with rockers plus a cam would still only be half the cost of a regrinding the original cam and rockers in the 83 XL. Plus any additional cams or rockers, if they were ever needed, would be of the easy to find post 88 variety.

    This was the first time I come across that particular idea so I am hoping for some feedback about potential problems going that route. Things like, are the cam profiles the same, do you need different rockers then either the XL or XR, and will the rocker cover bolt to the same frame brackets or would I have to fabricate new ones? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
  18. lookfar

    lookfar from the land of OZ

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    My Haynes manual says the pin has to be removed, it says it should just pull out.
    HTH
  19. the_tulip

    the_tulip Adventurer

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    Oct 23, 2011
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    13
    The factory manual says to do that for the manual decompressor lever, and that one came out just fine. For the kickstarter decompressor lever, the manual says to disconnect the spring and remove the kickstarter valve lifter lever, but it doesn't seem to be that easy.
  20. jscott0419

    jscott0419 n00b

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    Feb 25, 2012
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    1
    I need help diagnosing the issues i am having with my xl600r...the bike would not start, had spark, some of the resitance specifications were off (not by much), but after reading, and reading and reading i replaced the stator. After the stator, NO SPARK? Now i am very confused as to why i had spark before, now i do not? I guess the only 2 items left would be CDI/Igtion coil? I really dont want to replace these 2 again....does anyone have any other suggestions, testing methods etc to help?