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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.
Black and Red to ground is open. nothing no ohms no continuity :huh
I'm still eyeballing a new stator on ebay for 65 with free shipping to try out.[/QUOTE]
I saw that one on ebay also. I just don't know about it. Sounds to good to be true usually is junk. My shallow wallet says buy it. My common sense tells me it is junk. I think better off to buy the ricky. I don't really want to, but after looking at the other stator I have already and seeing how bad it is. I just don't think it makes sense to fiddle around trying to fix this one. If it is not a bad wire obvious thing I am not gonna mess around with it much. How many times your put a alternator in your old car? Well alternator is almost 30 yrs old in the XL. Know what i mean? I know what you mean about wallet though. Hard to shell out 150 bucks for the old bike when you have wife 4 kids and Christmas around the corner.:huh
Black 'n Red is the ignition pole on the stator. IT'S DEAD. Buy a Ricky Stator and be done with it. PROVEN FIX!!!!
That is what I concluded. Gonna get the Ricky as soon as I can.
I was trail riding the earlier today and I seen some nice single track (single track is kinda rare out here) cutting through the desert and I decided to follow it, luckily I wasn't going very fast cuz I woulda killed my old as suspensions, there was a straight drop off like 12ft high into a wash. it looked like people ride off like a giant curb I gotta take a picture of this shit for ya'll anyone who does this is nuts.
Coil showed up today, and the gasket and Ricky are on the way! Can't wait to get all wet and cold riding this winter! Anybody have ideas for replacement battery? I would like to get something that last better then the usual stuff you get.
I'm looking for an air box to cut up a bit. A broken one will work as if it's the front part or the bottom that's damaged. I'm just looking for the top, battery tray, and rear mud guard to be intact. I'm thinking of running pod filters I would like to use the top of the air box as a tray to keep the electronics and battery mounted. A damaged piece would be preferred since I don't want to destroy a good air box if I don't have to. If anyone has something please let me know. Thanks
I have the air box with an enlarged inlet hole that should work. I have the rubber boots and an air box cover, if anyone needs them also.
The only thing with that is the hole on top might make it flimsy once the whole bottom of the box is cut away. I wish I would have looked at it when I was over there but I wasn't thinking about pod filters at the time. What I found today is what gave me this idea.
To catch everybody else up I bought an XL600R motor off of MentalGuru here last week. He said it the motor made very good power when he was riding it, but doesn't know much about what modifications, if any, were done to it. All he could tell was that it had aftermarket valve springs and ran very well with about 12 disks on the supertrapp, when he tried backing it down to 6 disks if felt much slower.
I took the rocker cover off and confirmed that the valve springs look like aftermarket ones, but I can't tell if it's got a cam or anything else just by looking at it. He told me the jetting felt spot on when riding so I did some detective work today and took apart the carbs to check jet sizes...
Now I can safely assume this motor must have been a heavy breather cause these jets are HUGE. It's got a 140 primary and 130 in the secondary! With a 70 pilot jet! Those things are like shower heads compared to the dynojet kit in my carbs. So the evidence shows that Mr Mental Guru wasn't pulling my leg about that motor being powerful because it certainly was thirsty. Knowing this and considering I ride on the street I think it may be beneficial to run pods with this top end.
If anyone has ever run any pods on this bike I'd appreciate any info you can give me. Things like filter type you've used and fitment issues, etc. I have jetted bikes with pods before so this isn't exactly my first rodeo. I know to start I may be getting an even bigger pilot jet. :eek1
Try it was wicked with 15 discs and was gutless with 9 discs(needed smaller jets). At least most street bikes around here are real loud too...
I was careful when I cut the stock hole larger, it should be easy to cover the hole and put a one pound sealed Shorai battery above it. That would help clean up the air filter area looks wise. Opening the stock snorkleless hole about 40% made a big difference in power.
It should run really good with pods on it.
CW stated downswept megaphone pipes will gain about 4 more hp up top with the gain starting on the very bottom.
Front fender appears to be a yamaha MX fender somewhere in the 2002-2010 zone, and the rear fender appears to be an Acerbis Baja rear fender, but Polisport also makes one exactly like that, and I think Cemoto does too.
Cheers SBG, much appreciated :)
Fitted my knobbiles and took to the lanes on the XL for the first time on Sunday and loved it, thinking it may be even more fun if I alter the gearing a little, currently running 15:40 which is great on the road for the odd motorway etc, but, probably a little tall off
A bit of a steep one...
and the wet chalk hill wasn't too easy
as my friends BMW can testify
but, had a great day out and the XL was great fun...can't wait for next time now :)
There isnt much around that can beat a old XL600!
Definitely agree with that. I've been enjoying it on the road, but, off road it definitely came into it's own for me...best purchase I've made in a long time, still got a few issues to iron out mainly with cold starts, but, I'll get there
There it is, the spare motor. What's going on inside that thing? I don't know, but I'm gonna throw some wrenches at it until I find out.
Look at that, looks like aftermarket springs and retainers. What's that camshaft all about then? I'm gonna get that piece otta there.
There you are you little bastard, what that stamping say on there?
148x9? That looks like a Megacycle number to me.
Off to the megacycle site to decode that number. What do we have?
Sweeeet. Racing piston, springs and guides? Looks like I got all that covered. Gotta send this head off to Cycle Wizard for a once over, rebuild if necessary, (maaaaaybe some other work) and I got myself a hot rod top end.
I told you it hauled a$$.
I never had anything but the rocker box off of it and I knew it was special.
I never knew what was done to that engine... I want to know!!!
The carbs seemed to be in great shape too.
The outsides not pretty, but it's the inside that counts. It shifted great and probably has HD clutch springs and such in it too.
I also have a XR600R twin carb air boot and a XR box.You could use the twin carb boot to mount a pair of pods on a custom mount I think.
I knew I gave you a great deal.
I knew should have kept it
Yes. Although you have to lower or remove the right foot peg mount and brake pedal in order for the clutch cover to have clearance to come off.
Hello- This is my first post on this forum, although I've been using forums for years to help me through many other vehicle projects.
I had XL bikes (250s and 600s) when I was in my teens and twenties, and now in my early 40s I find myself with another 1986 XL600R! (It's kind of a beater.... 28,000 miles) I rode it a few times about 2 years ago, and it ran fine and was lots of fun. But the last time I tried starting it, which was about 2 months ago... no go
I figured out it had no spark, and somewhere in that process I opened the little sight plug on the stator cover (left case cover) as well as the center plug on that same cover to find TDC, and I was quite surprised to see oil in there. I was sure that area would be dry and free from oil. I figured an oil seal must have given up, and that must be the cause of the no-spark condition.
So yesterday I pulled the engine from the bike (I totally remember doing that multiple times in my 20s... so easy!!) and pulled the stator cover off to see if I could get a better idea of the problem, and to my surprise there are at least three holes connecting this area with the gearbox, so oil is apparently free to flow into the stator area.
Is this right? Is the rotor/stator area also supposed to be semi-filled with engine oil?
And if this is the case, then where do you good XL600 folks suggest I start looking for the cause of the no-spark condition?
While the engine is out, I suppose I will start tearing down the head a little so see how bad things look in there. I sorta want to do as little as possible to just get the bike rideable again, (spend as little $$ as possible) but I guess I will do what I gotta do.
(As a side note, I am very familiar with the "read the forum before asking your question, noobie!" attitude which I think is justifiably applied to new members' posts on these forums... To be honest I am blown away by the sheer volume of posts in this thread, and don't have the time right now to wade through it all. So, any insight about my situation is appreciated, and if you just want to point me to relevant prior posts, that sounds good too)
yes, the stator runs in oil.
are you 100% sure, there is no spark ? places to check:
1. the sparkplug plug/cap. there is a resistor and contacts in there. moisture can wreck havoc in there.
2. ignition coil (especiall if moisture got in there)
3. stator (check the resistance for the ignition coil)
4. pickup coil (measure resistance for that)
5. CDI (last resort, there is really no easy "test", eliminate other causes first)
also, "cracked sparkplug" has bitten me on several occasions after I couldn't find a fault anywhere.it should really be the first check, i.e.
0. replace sparkplug
most often, however, they won't start after standing for a while, because old gas will gum up the carburetor and
it needs to be cleaned.