The XL600 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.

  1. Stretchah

    Stretchah Been here awhile

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    That's bad news..I hope not too, he doesn't have another one :( so, I'm going to keep trawling ebay until one turns up either that or get someone to make one up. I'm guessing it shouldn't cost too much. If I do go that route at some point I'll let you know, but, the centre stand is a way down my list at the moment ;)

    Glad the photo was of some use Christian looking forward to seeing how the stand turns out :) Plus the rest of the bike :)
  2. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    Just got back from the shop... mostly because it's suddenly too darn cold to work in there!

    But I did get my center stand mounts done. For some reason none of the pictures turned out very well.... This one is the best...

    [​IMG]

    We're looking at the back of the bottom corner of the engine compartment. Swingarm linkage mount area is sort of in the center of the image, kick-stand mount flange is at top left.
    Just to the right of the kickstand pivot bolt you can see a piece of 5/16" round stock with a necked down collar near the end; this will be the spring mount for the stand.

    Now I know I'm getting ahead of myself here... and this might be a little crazy... but I've been brainstorming some ideas about an electric start for this thing that would be totally external to the engine, and here is what I am thinking:
    Mount a starter motor for a motorcycle (I happen to have one hanging around) below the carbs, like this:

    [​IMG]

    The crankcase breather would have to be modified somehow to make room, but otherwise I think it would fit. Then mount a one-way over-running clutch (like McMaster-Carr item number 4752N4, for instance) onto the output shaft of the electric motor, and a small sprocket on the other side of the clutch. Mount a larger sprocket (as big as you could get away with for gear-down, and these sprockets could be much smaller pitch... like 25 or 35) next to the main output drive sprocket of the engine, and connect the two with a chain.

    If you were to engage the starter motor, it would spin the drive sprocket of the engine, thereby turning over the engine, as long as you were in gear. I'm guessing 5th gear would be the way to go. The implication, however, is that your rear tire would be spinning too... hence the center stand. This is another reason I went ahead and positioned my center-stand mounts pretty far back, to get the rear wheel off the ground. Now... once the engine is started, you pull in the clutch, shift down to first, roll off the center stand, and ride away. While riding, the smaller chain connecting the engine output drive sprocket to the starter motor would be spinning like crazy, but the overrunning clutch would prevent the starter motor from spinning.

    Yes, it's a crazy idea. And I'm not sure yet if I will try it. I would need to probably go with individual air filters and make a bigger battery box for a bigger battery. More weight. There are several other challenges, too, like mating the little clutch to the starter motor and mating a second sprocket to the engine output sprocket (hard to do because those sprockets are hardened; no welding, no machining)

    We'll see what happens. More food for thought, for now.

    Christian
  3. High Country Herb

    High Country Herb Adventure Connoiseur

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    I think black seat, white bike, and gold anodizing. With that combo, the natural color Clarke tank would look good, and be clear enough to check fuel level. A white painted metal tank would look even better, but with less capacity obviously.
  4. Tomodan

    Tomodan n00b

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    Hi all, I’ve recently bought an old (86) XL600 LMF and am loving it! What a cracking bit of kit, relaxed, bullet proof (I hope!) and cheap! :clap<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    I’m sure I will have loads of questions coming up but for now there is one thing that I am really trying to work out……..<o:p></o:p>
    Why has my LM got a red frame?<o:p></o:p>
    It’s a UK bike & has the twin headlights, big tank & red engine (which has been re-painted but was also originally red judging by the paint underneath)<o:p></o:p>
    I have seen loads of pictures of bikes just like mine but never with a red frame!<o:p></o:p>
    Having stripped the tank & body work off to sort a leaky carb I am 90% convinced the paint is original as the bits under the tank, round the headstock & under the seat all look original?<o:p></o:p>
    Also the frame plate is in-tact & I can’t see any trace of overspray or re-fitting and when I was changing the oil a flake of paint cape off the down tube fight down to the bare metal & there is only red paint in the flake (no white underneath)<o:p></o:p>
    I am guessing it is one of 3 things.<o:p></o:p>
    1. I am a Muppet with the observational skills of a mole & it has had its white frame re-sprayed (with a bear metal strip hence no white under the red)<o:p></o:p>
    2. It is a super mega rare “red framed special” which collectors will sell their first born child to buy & my £600 hack has now become my retirement plan<o:p></o:p>
    3. Red frames were perfectly normal & its coincidence that Google images does not return any on the first few pages.<o:p></o:p>
    Any help working this out would be gratefully received!<o:p></o:p>
    I’ll try to upload a pic once I work out how!<o:p></o:p>
  5. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    15.4oz or 455cc of ATF. Oil level is 150mm or 5.9"
  6. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    Each
  7. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    I'm setting the "outside-the-engine-electric-start" idea aside for now. With the exhaust mocked up into place it becomes clear the electric starter motor I have will not fit. If I could locate a smaller electric motor I think the idea could be made to work, but I'm not gonna focus on it for now.

    Last night I was perusing older sections of this thread and I came across the part about the reed valve in the head that goes between the intake ports, and the way that valve was superseded by a different intake manifold with a passage milled out between the intakes.

    It turns out my engine has neither....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'd rather not spend the $50.00 or more that the later stye intake manifolds are going for on eBay. And, I've thought about how to modify the intake to create a passage there, but it's not a particularly easy thing to do.

    Any thoughts? How critical is this "cross-flow" issue? Anyone have a later-style manifold they don't need? (I guess I would need the spacer too) Any other insights into the topic?

    Thanks,
    Christian
  8. MentalGuru

    MentalGuru Crazy Diamond

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    Run what you have, the carbs are progressive. I wouldn't worry about it.

    Was there any issues before the tear down?

    :beer
  9. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    Well, the teardown was initiated because of a no-spark issue. It mushroomed from there into a much more ambitious project.

    But the bike did run OK, several years ago. The truth, however, is that I have only ridden this bike about 4 hours TOTAL, and 95% of that was off-road. And it was 4 years ago. So, if it had issues related to this lack of cross-flow between intakes, I'm not sure I would have recognized them / don't really remember.
  10. Ghost_Mutant

    Ghost_Mutant looking for bionics

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    I think neither is the wrong answer for any year XL6:D Someone must have replaced the original cross port carb intake boot with an 83 version? Easy mistake to make esp. when ebay sellers list items as fitting multiple years.

    Looking at the 83 Honda Manual copy I have under the technical information chapter, ch19, it says:

    If you idle the bike for any length of time, you might want that cross port. It might be a bigger requirement in the Desert as opposed to Canada.

    On the other hand, just keep it at WOT and the right intake valve will be plenty cooled and lubricated.:rofl

    Edit/addition: you can look for intake boots for 84 up XL6s, 84 XR5s, and 85-87 XR6s. The 84s have the larger insulation plate port holes. Later years are stopped down a tad. Just stay away from the 83s, you already have that one.
  11. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    More playing around in photoshop. Sorry to those who consider this blasphemy.

    [​IMG]
  12. Billtr96sn

    Billtr96sn Flange Furtler

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    Is it a PD03 or PD04? do you have square or round tubing? Sounds like you have a earlier XL600R

    Ooops, this is for the guy with the red frame!
  13. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    If you're asking me... its an '86.
  14. Billtr96sn

    Billtr96sn Flange Furtler

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    Crobox, why not look at what the XL600LMF uses?? It is much the same engine as yours (Top end is exactly the same) and the bottom end is kick and electric.
  15. Billtr96sn

    Billtr96sn Flange Furtler

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    Look at the frame Vin plate, it will have a PD number on there.
  16. Billtr96sn

    Billtr96sn Flange Furtler

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    As an aside, what air pressure would you recommend?
  17. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    None, Zero, Zip
  18. MentalGuru

    MentalGuru Crazy Diamond

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    I like to have fork bleeders so I can purge any fork pressure with me on the bike and at breaks during rough rides. If the fork is too soft put heavier springs in.

    :beer
  19. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    Sounds cool.

    But not available over here.
  20. Carter Pewterschmidt

    Carter Pewterschmidt Long timer

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    That would look cool if all the plastics were blue, but otherwise the full blue on the tank is too much blue in one place. Try a RWB style painted tank, keep the blue and white, and just replace the red with orange. Might look better.