The XL600 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.

  1. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    Yeah, having a piece of debris in the idle circuit or pilot jet could make it do what it's doing.

    If the bike was running fine for a while and then suddenly started running bad, I don't see you needing to change the pilot jet. It will either run fine or it won't from the get go--it won't suddenly start running lean.

    Make sure there's nothing blocking the fuel flow between the fuel line nipple on the carb and the float needle valve.
  2. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    Homerb- Ahhhh man. That really, REALLY sucks. :becca
  3. Homerb

    Homerb Been here awhile

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    Gaaah indeed. Spent this afternoon putting it right. I might finish it tomorrow, though the forecast is for 43°c and 50mph winds, so l think I'll be staying indoors!
  4. Carter Pewterschmidt

    Carter Pewterschmidt Long timer

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    +1
  5. Carter Pewterschmidt

    Carter Pewterschmidt Long timer

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    What the serious fuck? That's almost 110 degrees Fahrenheit! How is it that hot out and that windy at the same time? You guys must have some crazy hot jet streams or something down there.
  6. Homerb

    Homerb Been here awhile

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    Your said it, Carter.
    Hot north westerly winds from central Australia, humidity less than 10%, and the worst bushfire conditions in a hundred years. 35°C at 8am at my place.
    Should be an interesting day!
    On days like this I'm happy to be retired from the fire service.
  7. RFVC600R

    RFVC600R SAND EATER!

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    Got my fork seals done, about to go climb some dunes :D
  8. Carter Pewterschmidt

    Carter Pewterschmidt Long timer

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    Leave the carbs in and run a fuel line straight into the carbs bypassing the petcock. It sounds like your motor might be running off the gas in the float bowls. Sometimes debris gets in your fuel tank and it will either clog the petcock itself or plug up the screen that takes fuel in. If that's the case then you can pull the petcock out, pull the bowl off it and clean that all out, then clean the screen that takes fuel in and flush the tank.
  9. RFVC600R

    RFVC600R SAND EATER!

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    No pics today, just a quick jaunt. I had 35 in both psi tires and the new kendas have better traction in the soft sand than the old ones at 15psi. And the handling is awesome since the new seals and oil. The bike turns better, brakes better, and offroad is enjoyable again! :D

    Next is chain, sprockets and, turn signals when they come in the mail this week

    Ehhh.... my bike runs out of fuel faster than seven minutes with gas off.
  10. Homerb

    Homerb Been here awhile

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    Just a thought, does your fuel have ethanol in it? The metal used in some honda carbs from the eighties doesn't like ethanol, which can cause rapid deposits to form in the carb, as the ethanol reacts with the metal. Doesn't happen with all honda carbys just to confuse matters.
  11. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    Klaus- I read this post a few weeks ago and it stuck in my head. I had to search to find it again....

    I'm interested in this tank that you made with the bottom of a stock XL tank. (That's a really good idea!)
    Do you have pictures of it? I would love to see.

    Thanks,
    Christian
  12. 12120

    12120 Indenturedx5

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    RIcky stator is here, coil is her, new gasket for stator cover, now I just need some time. :D I would be nice if it wasn't raining sideways to. :lol3 Anybody know if CR pegs will fit on the XL? I believe they are wider.

    Chris

    Sorry about your luck Pete. I think you outta just pull the carbs off and totally take apart and clean. Same goes for the fuel line/tank screen and tank. I you had that much crap in the carbs the need complete tear down. I would think. I hate the little mystery problems.:splat
  13. Stretchah

    Stretchah Been here awhile

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    After my post regarding the fork upgrades, I just want to clarify a few things i've noticed that seem a little strange, Firstly am I right in thinking that standard xl600 forks are 39mm to 1985 and 41mm after?.

    I was in the garage earlier and thought I'd have a closer look at mine and I noticed the tops are about 1 inch above the top yoke - is this normal for them to be set that way or are they normally flush with the top of the yoke?

    [​IMG]

    I then noticed that they look like they've been machined from half way between the 2 yokes to the tops :eek1

    [​IMG]

    So, I measured them and they are 43mm all the way up to where it looks machined and then 41mm. And from what Carter said the other day I am guessing a european top yoke has been used as its 41mm and has the ignition holder and screen/light holder brackets in the normal place.

    Found a part no. KA4-831 on a little blue sticker on the right slider and have done a quick search and they seem to be coming up as from a CR250R or CR500R from 85-87 intrigued as to whether the machining is original or an alteration - most forks I've seen are normally the same diameter all the way up...

    Heres a pic of the whole forks in case it helps... At the moment I'm thinking someone has done me a massive favour and may have already upgraded my forks :lol3
    Let me know what you think? it may just be that I've misinterpreted what you guys have said and I've read and this is all normal :wink:

    [​IMG]
  14. MentalGuru

    MentalGuru Crazy Diamond

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    His bike is a Euro model so it's probably way cooler.... :lol3

    :freaky
  15. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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  16. MentalGuru

    MentalGuru Crazy Diamond

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    I suspect a fork swap has been done. Maybe CR forks and lower with them machined to fit the stock upper. Measure the tubes at both clamps (some cartidge forks neck down between the triple clamps). Measure the axle size to see if it is 15 or 17mm in size.

    Just curious... :D

    :freaky
  17. Stretchah

    Stretchah Been here awhile

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    Cheers Guys and mental guru hopefully one day it'll be cooler, but, not in it's current state :wink:

    I was thinking the tops should be pretty much flush. I'm guessing they may be a little longer and a previous owner did it like that to even the ride height as seems to be a standard rear shock. That seems to be good news though as wanted to raise the ride height, just got to get an XR rear shock now :D

    It does drop from 43mm to 41mm on the yokes...if they are like that as standard it may be another upgrade option for us :) I'll measure the axle too especially as just bought a spare front wheel :eek1 Hopefully I can get it to fit without issues...

    Moparmanpete, Glad to hear that you've sorted your carb problem, enjoy :D

    Andy
  18. 12120

    12120 Indenturedx5

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    Yay:clap Mine is also alive. Glad you got your's sorted Pete!:clap I did not get to go for a ride. My tags are expired, and the plate is from OR. I have the bike in my name, just did not get a WA plate on it cause the tags where still good on the old one.:wink: I know bend the rules.:evil It was also raining cats and dogs and about 40 degrees.:puke1 New coil new ricky see what brakes next.

    Chris
  19. RFVC600R

    RFVC600R SAND EATER!

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    I got a problem, I bought a new Volar o-ring chain. I guess you gotta use a special tool to the press the rivets on the masterlink and I can't afford the tool :cry

    What should I do? the damn tool is more than the chain!!

    Can i use a master link from a regular o-ring chain??
  20. Homerb

    Homerb Been here awhile

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    Im assuming the link is a rivet type master link? Id just peen the riverts over with a hammer. Or you could use a normal master link. I did on my last bike which was dynoed at 73rwhp and the link held fine.