Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.
Nevermind i figured it out
Thanks for all the replies and help with the XL600r that I was thinking of purchasing. I decided not to purchase it because I have a bad hip and found the kickstarting made my hip very sore. I think I would have purchased it had it not been for that issue. I really enjoyed the power on that bike, the low seat height and the comfortable seat. I also think they look very cool. You guys have some cool old bikes on here!
I kind of got to know the guy. He seems like a good guy. He plans on getting a newer bike and going on a journey to South America. I told him about Advrider and he said he is going to join here.
Pic of the bike that I took during my second test ride:
You could always have a look around for one of these two. Both are still Honda XL600's but both have an "electric leg" which will help with your bad hip.
The centrestand on this bike is aftermarket and not a honda item
Not too likely to run across one of those in the US.
Those dual headlights are nice
I'd love to find one of those in the US. I've got an 87 XL600 that's complete, frame powder coated, motor gone through and painted, front end done, basically finished. It's awaiting assembly. For the past three years, I've always found several other bikes,(mostly NX650's) to build and re-build, all because this is a kick-start bike.
I guess I'm going to have to get serious and put this bike back together.
What was the website with the schematics of the RFVC engine?? I'm getting ready to pull the engine to put in all new gaskets and oil seals in the head I remember you told me to get the part numbers and order them from the dealer, but i ordered from that site and got the OEM seals pretty quickly.
I'm weeping from the burp valve arm, valve cover and the chain tensioner thingy. pics soon to follow after i adjust these valves
This is just nasty....This engine was rebuilt in 2009, 4,553 miles ago by Prime Motorsports in Hemet, CA.
Can't put in new seals while ya down there?? Don't trust a mechanic! $1300 spent on a rebuild and it leaks oil 3 years later it runs like new atleast
I set the valves to the new RFVC specs. Doesn't make any extra noise like I suspected it would earlier.
What I suspect has really happened is that the seals have been replaced, but used aftermarket seals and o-rings instead of genuine.
As Honda made their own o-rings and seals, they are slightly different in thickness than what is commercially available. As a result, if commercially made items are fitted, there is a really good chance that they will leak.:eek1
When replacing seals and o-rings, one should always use OEM to guarentee being leak free...
My $0.02 anyway.
Kick start bikes are fine if they are jetted right, until you stall it as the light changes green and cars behind are impatient. Times like that make me wish for a magic button. Otherwise I am content to kick it to life.
There is some kind of old school satisfaction in folding out the kickstarter and bringing it to life with just brute force, while lesser beings around you are pushing their button and watching you with awe and respect.
You're awesome pete! thanks! gonna pull this engine in the next month and get rid of the annoying leaks
Carbs aren't that bad, getting them off the bike is though. I have evolved techniques to change jets and needles and slides without pulling them off the bike. Just one of those jobs that I hate to do and avoid at all costs.
Funny how opinions differ. I used the copper gasket spray on my headgasket and none others.
You could try the carb bowls off a twin carb xr. thay have a theaded plug,so you could change the jets without taking carbs off.
I know what you mean....I've kicked so many bikes over for friends/family members....even strangers I grew up kicking machines of all sizes over, didn't really mind it at all until I got some electric start machines. Then I got a little spoiled
Now I only own electric starts....so much easier to deal with when flooded, or diagnosing running problems.....or just starting a stubborn bike on a cold morning, or hot tip-over start etc.
I sold a high comp big bore xr500r to a friend......I went over a month or so later to visit, and see how he liked the bike. He said he hadn't rode it yet because he couldn't start it :eek1 :eek1 :eek1 So I went out and fired it up within a kick or 2, and tried to show him what to do, but he just couldn't develop the feel or kick for it. He sold it soon after to his brother.
Kicking isn't for everybody
My XL600R is faster off the line and has higher top speed than my buddies 2006 Kawasaki V-star 950. He was so pissed he got whooped on by a "dirt bike on the street."
These old XLs are pretty serious machines or what??
You should ride a built one sometime...
I want to build mine hopefully next winter.
First off, thank you all very much for the information that has been provided throughout this thread. It's been wonderful, and I appreciate all of it. You guys helped me replace my cam chain, clean my head and carbs, and all sorts of things. Thank you.
Now, it's time to get some model specific advice/info for my next project! This way, I can take some pictures and be specific and give back to the community.
Dual headlights. I managed to get a set of Ruckus headlights (the frame is even in the correct color red, haha). Mounting them, I'll ghetto-fab something up. It's the electrical stuff I'm a little uneasy with.
Here's what I'm working with, and what I want:
What I've got: 1984 XL600R. 200W ricky stator, along with the heavy duty reg/rec that they provide (AC and DC). A set of Ruckus headlights, in awesome red.
What I want: Both lights to be switchable high and low beam, while keeping as much of the bike wiring as stock as possible. Add-ons are fine, I just dont want to completely hack up the wiring harness if I can help it.
So there are two coils on the stator, ~100W each, and I'd like to keep my DC system the way it is. basic math tells me that 55Wx2 for low beams should be okay on the stock AC lighting coil, but at 65Wx2 for the high beams might be really pushing it and might fry the lighting coil.
What I was thinking was, that I run the charging coil, as well as the lighting coil to the battery (two 100W coils) through the regulator/rectifier, then run wiring directly from the battery to some relays to switch the lights. I'd like to use the stock switch for this if I can. My other thought would be to have one side of the dual lights be an AC light, and the other side be run off of the DC system from the battery. What would the max wattage bulb that side of the stator be able to handle?
The main issues that my brain can't seem to wrap around:
Can I use the stock switch to switch the relays? I'm not sure how the current flows through the switch, and I don't know if it will overload it or not.
I'd also be curious if I can send both coils into the DC system, and if the reg/rec (it's a tympanium, i believe) can handle that current, or if the battery will be able to keep charged to keep up with the current flow for the dual lights.
The reading I've done seems to be mostly for stock DC lighting systems (someone made a good writeup for a DR650 dual headlight setup, as well as streetfighter stuff), and being that the XL is an AC/DC mix, that kind of complicates things, I suppose.
Any input would be wonderful. Or, and xl600lm (dual light) wiring diagram would be helpful. If I can get this together with some good information, there will be a detailed writeup.
I prefer simplicity myself, the less there is, the less there is to go wrong. i also like the idea of splitting the lights, one AC, one DC for the fact that you are drawing on two different sources available without overloading either. The DC side is relatively unused except for signals, brake and tail and instrument lights.
I would leave one headlight as stock, through the switch and wiring you already have, the AC light would function as normal. The DC light I would run through a relay from the fused and switched battery source available. I would use a 5 prong relay with the 87a and 87 connectors on them. The relay connects 87a while at rest and 87 when activated. Connect the low beam to the 87 and when you turn on the key low beam will come on automatically if you have it wired from 30 to 87a. (alternately you could mount a separate switch to be able to turn off that light independently)
For high beam I would trigger the relay from the existing high beam switch wire through terminals 86 and 85. Both lights will come on automatically, though the AC light will have to wait for the engine, and switch to high beam with the one stock switch.
If you were to change your signals and tail and instrument lights to LED as I have it would also free up more amperage for other options, such as heated grips, while not overloading anything.
Sounds good in theory in my muddled brain, the only grey area I can think of is whether the relay will trip on an AC source, haven't experimented with that yet. I suppose you could add a diode in the switching circuit to straighten out the waveform if needed.
Just my $.02
Thanks for the advice and details. I'll mock up a 'wiring diagram' and post it here for feedback. I think there are AC relays as well as DC relays, but I think the DC relays are the ones that you can easily get at an auto parts store. I also think that I could get a small reg/rec to go inline from there to convert it DC, but that's just conjecture at this point.
The main thing I was worried about was the blue wire from the switch to the highbeams, as I'm not sure if it supplies current or acts as a ground, though I don't think it does...
I think I'm going to do the AC/DC light route though, as it'll allow the bike to return to stock like I want, and might allow for a brighter light on the DC side from the lack of draw from the DC side of the system (basically only the taillight and signals).