The XL600 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.

  1. brokeagain

    brokeagain Been here awhile

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    Straight lines will do wonders to improve the quality of a technical drawing!

    Again, thanks for the advice. Once I gather most everything, I feel like putting this together won't be a big deal.

    Pics/write-up to follow!
  2. Stretchah

    Stretchah Been here awhile

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    Hey Guys, Have been doing a little more digging and it looks like the 86, 87, 88 CR500 forks were made like this by Honda i.e. dropping in size as you go up the fork, 43mm botttom yoke and 41mm top. here's a pic of an 87 and you can clearly see the line where it changes thye same as mine....
    [​IMG]

    The 86 - 88 ones are cartridge forks and from what I've read the XR600 ones were based on and pretty much the same as these, but, without the size difference in stem diameter. Going by this bit of blurb I found trawling and more photo's I've found the CR250 ones seem to be the same from 86 - 87, not sure if there was a length difference though. Apparently the axle size is 17mm, but, I will check this with mine...

    "By 1987, the conventional forks were developed to a very high level and
    most agree the 87 cartridge forks on the CR250 and 500 were some of the
    best ever offered on any production bike. In 1988, Honda switched to the
    upside down forks (89 for the 500) and it was all down hill for many years.
    It's the same as the debate about Steel vs. Aluminum frames, not everyone
    is convinced the switch to Aluminum was a good idea. In fact in 97, if I
    remember correctly, Suzuki switched back to conventional forks on the RMs."

    It seems it might give us another option for upgrades and I will pull my finger out and measure that axle :D
  3. Carter Pewterschmidt

    Carter Pewterschmidt Long timer

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    Thanks for that. Might have to keep this fork swap in mind.
  4. davek181

    davek181 Long timer

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    I have a spare set of 85 CR500 forks laying around. It is stepped also on the top. I measured the axle on it and it is 17mm in size. I compared the axle on an 87 model through an online lookup and they all use the same axle those years. So it is confirmed 17mm axle, 6003 bearings.
  5. Stretchah

    Stretchah Been here awhile

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    Cheers for confirming that Dave :)
  6. cyclewizard

    cyclewizard Long timer

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    Also put a five angle performance valve job on it 75/60/45/30/15 degree's... opened the intake ports to 30.56mm's from the 26.87mm's the head came with, used a bowl hog and enlarged both the intake and exhaust pockets for better/more flow, glass beaded the rocker box and head. Installed new KW valves..:D
  7. daviethebiker

    daviethebiker Adventurer

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    I recently bought a new chain slider for the swingarm on my 1987 XL600R. When I took the swingarm off I felt reassembly was going to be tough as the swingarm was very hard to get apart from the frame. I cleaning everything and put the new chain guide on and got ready to install the swingarm but I can't get the swingarm to slide into position. Is it easier if I loosen the other engine mount in the rear ? Are there any tricks to make re-installing the swingarm easier ? Thank you.
  8. Edouard_Bracame

    Edouard_Bracame Adventurer

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    A solution for these jet size is to buy a set of mini carburator reamer, you just enlarge the fuel passage with the mini reamer, and if the hole is too big and you want to reduce your jet size , you just meld some soldering lead in the passage and then you bore it using mini drill bit(Dremel), and then you finish it with your reamer.

    I'm reading the all thread and I'm @ page 96...:rofl
  9. davek181

    davek181 Long timer

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    There must be something else going on here, the swingarm is not that hard to get back in. I have extra wheels with mounted tires ready for a quick swap and on the rear. I scavenged up enough parts to outfit a spare swingarm I have figuring that would be a faster swap than fiddling with axles and adjusters and stuff. The hardest part for me is holding the end caps in place while sliding the swinagarm into place, and that is really not that hard at all.

    I would study a parts breakdown online (like Babbits online, or partszilla) and make sure all of the pieces are in their respective places and the dust seals on the ends fit tightly and bottom out on the ends of the arm. Maybe someone folded the seals over in the dust caps and somehow got it forced back together. It would be really hard to bend the frame there making it tighter, and loosening motor mounts wouldn't help anything there either in my opinion, but that is easy enough to try. Swingarms are very much alike between models so even if it were the wrong one it should still fit. i think 500, 600, 650l, even 250 and 350 all interchange easily.

    I would try to test fit it without the seals on the end first to see what the measurement is between the frame and arm, then go from there. If someone assembled it with pieces missing and pinched it together there, I bet you could jack it back out with a bottle jack or similar device.
  10. daviethebiker

    daviethebiker Adventurer

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    Thank you davek181. I had tried the bottle jack yesterday and again today, even after loosening the other engine mount, but I just couldn't get it to fit. After taking a little break and relaxing I went out and the swingarm went in with a little extra push and jiggling. I went to assemble the pro-link and noticed I had another stripped nut for one of the linkage bolts. The linkage is cleaned, regreased and assemble, just need the last nut to finish. Riding days are with me again !
  11. Carter Pewterschmidt

    Carter Pewterschmidt Long timer

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    A little late but I found the swing arm goes in really easy if you pull it through from in front of it's mount point rather than pushing it in through the back. Don't know if that trick works with the motor in though.
  12. Carter Pewterschmidt

    Carter Pewterschmidt Long timer

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    Yeah, What he said :rofl
  13. 12120

    12120 Indenturedx5

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    Anyone put one in? Experience with them, trouble, one to stay away from?:wink: I would am thinking of doing it. Should just need a H4/9003 kit to do it with. Just wondering about any feedback on it. Also I have ask this before, but is there a source for carb bowl orings?

    Thanks Chris
  14. brokeagain

    brokeagain Been here awhile

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    Honda still sells gasket kits for the carburetors, and should be able to be ordered from any online store or motorcycle shop. I'm not sure if they sell the individual O-rings, but I did just pick up two gasket kits a couple of months ago. I don't know if there are different gasket kits for the different year bikes, because the carbs change slightly (at least between '83 and '84).

    Hope that helps.
  15. davek181

    davek181 Long timer

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    I haven't done the HID conversion but I have pondered it. The advantages of course are the higher light output, but the disadvantages outweigh that in my opinion.

    The major disadvantage on an XL is the necessary Dc conversion to the headlight. I have read stories of lights shutting off due to voltage and/or battery reserves being low, and an XL is marginal that way anyhow since the DC circuitry is not utilized or designed very heavy. Bulb expense and vibration resistance fears compound my reluctance.

    Maybe as an auxiliary light but there I would probably opt for LED driving lights instead keeping in mind current draw limitations.
  16. RFVC600R

    RFVC600R SAND EATER

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    I broke a zerk off of my linkage..... Now what??
  17. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    Easy out or left hand drill bit.
  18. cam14

    cam14 Been here awhile

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    In the process is putting my XL600 back together and want to do something a little different with the air filter. I would like to install dual air filters directly on the carbs and by-pass the factory air box. My factory air box is pretty beat up already and the rubber snorkels makes remove and installing the carbs very difficult.

    Has anyone documented their successful factory air box replacement? Have not have not found anything whilst searching.
    If I removed the air box completely, then where does one mount the battery and related wiring?

    TIA
  19. davek181

    davek181 Long timer

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    My experience with aftermarket air filters, especially pod filters, especially K&N is that they are slightly better than no filter at all. They will filter out the sticks and rocks, but let damaging dust come right through. If you are running on only pavement and never in the dust, then maybe your rings will last a little longer.

    I would hunt eBay for a better air filter box if yours is damaged beyond belief and run either a factory Honda( preferable and still available ) or a twin air filter.
  20. daviethebiker

    daviethebiker Adventurer

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    I think partzilla .com has the bowl gaskets but they include the O-ring for the drain bolt at the bottom of the float bowl for $23.75. I have got a few things from them lately and the shipping was fair and took about 5-6 days with the ceap shipping.