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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.
Ricky stator lubed by Rotella
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Carter, that 148-9 is an excellent cam. I'm running it in my XL600/XR650L hybrid bike. I'm also installing that grind in my '95 XR600.
I ran into three marines out on the trails yesterday. RM250, YZ450F, and CRF450r. Those mother fucking bikes move like stink! But the ole' XL stuck right behind their pack through wicked twisty trails and hill climbs. I followed them around for like 45mins tearing trails up on a 30 year old bike I woulda got pics but we didn't stop long enough to take our helmets off let alone snap some shots. fun day.
Here is an 86'. needs some work.
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^ Welcome, nice bike you have. I've been looking for an original rear rack like that. Anyone have one they want to sell me?
Is there an aftermarket or factory lower engine guard that is currently available for the XL600? You can see in the photo that I am missing the original.
I have a spare one but I'd only get rid of it in trade for that rear rack of yours.
Otherwise you can probably find a used OEM one on ebay.
I see the engine guards for sale on ebay for $30. i have always had engine guards on any motorcycle I have owned since I was riding in highschool. They are much cheaper and easier than replacing engine cases.
I actually might have a rear original rack that fits an 85 XL600. it bolts to the frame at the front and has a web/strap that crosses the fender at the back. Sound right? I can't use it since I now have a frankenbike consisting of mostly an XR with XL lights and etc. See it on this thread page and PM me if you're interested:
missing my ol XL
Has anyone on here noticed this?
Everything I have read seems to indicate that this is a next-to-impossible to find part, and yet here it (apparently) is.
I did some research on the site, and despite their homepage looking a bit "off," they seem to be legit. Anyone on here have any experience with this company?
I'm doing research because I have a weak-spark condition.
I've already got a Ricky Stator. I'm thinking of replacing the coil and the CDI. I will do some testing tomorrow to see if I can determine which of those two components is faulty. However, according to my Clymer manual the testing procedure outlined in the manual which is commonly linked in this thread (the Italian site) is no longer considered a valid procedure (never mind the difficulties in determining the differences in the pinouts between the '83-'84 CDI 6-pin single plug and the later style 2- and 4-pin double connector style)
All of which is to say that I do not really know how to determine if my CDI is good or not....
I bought one of those for my XL years ago, only it was red. I thought it would be a performance upgrade because it touted an improved advance curve, plus I was suspicious of my original. I noticed no difference between it and stock, other than it was smaller and didn't fit the holder as well.
Apparently it was reliable since I have done over 20,000 miles with it. I quit carrying my stock one as a spare long ago. I bought mine off eBay from an unknown source. I agree your find looks legitimate in the fact that they have a variety of items all related to electronics. The price is cheap enough to use it as a diagnostic piece.
I often weigh purchases in the shop that way. Sure it is throwing parts at something but the diagnostic time in chargeable hours adds up quick. If it works you are done and can move on to something else, if not, you gain valuable knowledge fairly cheaply as opposed to hours wasted.
Why wouldn't the testing procedure in the factory manual be valid anymore, and what does the Clymer suggest you do? I'm curious, as I used the factory manual method in testing my CDI.
I ended up getting a Rick's Motorsports one. I believe it is listed as an 88-00 XR600R CDI, and the connector is a match for the '85-'87 XL600R, but it is not the same as the '83-'84 connector. What I ended up having to do (I have an '84) was clip the wires from the connector, put on new individual connectors for each wire, slid them over the appropriate pins on the CDI box, and RTV siliconed the whole connector together to waterproof it.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=813256 is the same CDI box I got.
http://www.4strokes.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26476 is where I got some information to determine which pins go to which wires. If I remember correctly, the pinouts are the same between the two CDI boxes you mentioned, just a different connector. If you need, I think I have what I did written on a piece of paper somewhere in my basement, and I'd be happy to share that with you if you need it.
Another thing to note is that this 88-00 XR600R CDI box has an earlier timing advance curve. When I put it on the bike felt 'different' - probably preignition. I started running higher octane gas, and it ran better, but not start better.
I also cleaned my carb after all was said and done. It made a huge improvement in ease of starting. Probably a combination of all those things.
You can also get a Sparker DC-CDI (Google)
No Ignition Coil needed and if you choose the programable version you can deal with low oktan Gas too
Yesterday my front brakes started squealing really bad. It sounds something like bending a huge piece of metal but there is still ~70% left on them and the rotor looks to be in excellent shape too. I've googled it and the internet says put anti squeal on them pads. can/should I do that?
My local brake/tyre shop guy reckons it's just down to road dirt etc and says just to clean the disc when it happens..I also tend to use a little copperslip grease on the rear side of the pads when I install them..seems to work.
Brake squeel is from pad vibration. Like he said , put a dab of caliper grease on the back of the pads.
Have had mine since 83. Love it. Piston, rings and valve seats at 48,000 miles. Runs like a champ.
Do NOT put grease on the back of the brake pads. There are special anti squeal materials for this. Check at your local auto parts place or a auto repair shop. The shop might even give you a dab to put on the pads for a buck ot two.