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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.
Well at least it looks pretty cool!
I'll be going to autozone tomorrow then! That seams to be my best bet.
Yeah it does look neat, I need to shorten the seat about 2 inches at the back but that really the only modifying I have to do.
I don't think it was for an 1983 XL600R the seat just don't fit right and it was obvious how everything went together.
I have seen JB Weld patch gas tanks, oil pans, radiators, power steering reservoirs, etc. maybe a little bit in the holes with shorter bolts and allowed to set up 48 hours. Don't use the quick setting stuff, be patient.
Bringing this back now that the Acerbis tank is done steeling the show. lol
I know people out there has been running different brake lines. What have you used?
Has anyone go a spare RHS side panel for my XL600 that I could buy? Colour unimportant.
For a start you need to find out it the threads are the same as 1 of the 2 sizes there are of banjo bolts. If it is then that would be ok. I dont remember who , but I do know that somebody makes lines to go straight into the caliper in place of ones using a banjo bolt so im thinking the threads are probably the same. I like Galfer lines and pads and theyre easy enough to find. At one time I bought MSR lines and the package said Galfer.
10x1.25 threads on the master I checked.
I am using the Galfer stainless line for xr400. I just used a banjo bolt that was the same length/threads etc as the caliper for the master,maybe a bit shorter.
Seems like it should work fine, didn't have any dot 4 to test out with.
When I installed the caliper the lower bolt hit the rotor, it seems as though the mount for it is a bit thinner than the stock forks, top is fine.
At first, I kept thinking my spacing was off, but it was the bolt rubbing. I have a washer on it now, but need to pick up one 5mm shorter.
There is typically a copper washer on both side of the line with the banjo bolt going through them, therefore the banjo bolt is suppose to be 2 coppers washes longer. Hope this makes sense. Have any pics?
Got the gas tank done. That seal all worked great and cured in 8 hours I plan on doing a write up and I have lots of pics.
You're in luck! pm me i g2g work. free if you pay shipping buddy
Just bought some flexible rear indicators for the '86 as im sick of the plastic ones breaking off when some dumb ass climbs aboard. Thought I would try some LED ones. After I got them online I noticed an ad next to them for an "LED FLASHER" Any electrical guru tell me is this mandatory with led's or will the standard one do? Front indicators are originals. Also the tail light brightens in time with the indicators which is a bit annoying. Any clues?
PS Still waiting for dam crank case gaskets and a very expensive crank brg.
You need LED flashers
I used a flasher that I got from NAPA parts store. It is universal, two pin, and capable of figuring out out to keep it's cool and flash with any light combo. I have 20 watt standard front signals for visibility and LED for rear and it works great with them. The package claims one to ten light capable 300 watt, non thermal type. It is cheap too, $10.00. Their part number is EL-12.
No fork springs for the XL600R. Race Tech finally told me that they can't get them. So kids, if you want to change the springs on the front of your XL600R you need to swap your forks.
What about getting a spring works to make them?
If someone had the specifications of the springs, diameter of the wire, free length, etc, it should be a simple matter to get them made.
If a group got together, they should be a bit cheaper...no good for me, I am on the other side of the planet, but should be easier for those in the CONUS.
You can do the Ghetto fork spring stiffening trick like me. Cut them 10% shorter to stiffen them 10% and add spacers to make up the length.
You could also make aircaps out of your fork caps. Also gives progression and adjustability.
You could try Hagon for fork springs - http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/ - they'll ship worldwide.
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