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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.
Thanks buddy was afraid of that.
As always great info with reply. Will check that out as the one on the aussie site was $45nz
Thanks for the suggestions guys, but I don't know if I'm going to try and mess with a custom spring set on this front end. I have a set of XR600R forks sitting in the basement that actually have such parts available for them. I'm going to see how much it would cost to get them rebuilt and shortened to the XL length.
Use the XR forks as is, and add an XR reservoir shock and all will be well. I have an extra one if you need it. i did that on my XL, only I used XR400 forks instead and I am quite happy with it.
Here's a good link from thumpertalk on the topic of XR suspension for our XLs. May have been posted, but it seems like a popular topic. I've got most of the stuff to make the switch on my '85, except time.
I have a feeling that this thing will be super tall with the full XR treatment. A little extra height would be ok, but those forks are whole 1 and a half inch longer than stock XL, that and the shock is something like an inch longer. That's quite the jack up. If I was a trail rider sure, but I'm an urban dweller and I don't know about riding around town on what would be something like a 36" seat height.
I'd be able to see much further above traffic though. I could coordinate traffic lights from miles off into the distance.
My seat height is higher than stock, but with a 32" inseam I can touch the ground with both feet on the balls of my feet. You get used to the height pretty quickly and adapt. No way I would go back now.
Those Hagon springs are only $121..... Its tempting lol
What spring weights do they have available?
IDK but they have to be better than stock.
Those probably wont work because the bike they list has a different fork. The XL600LM and XL600RM have 41mm forks instead of that stupid 39mm front end that we got.
Lol, Indeed. The US version and I know Italy, maybe a handful of other countries got shafted with this 39mm front end. It's obviously a weak front fork setup for a dual sport bike, which I'm willing to deal with because I'm not that interested in mucking about with a fork swap, but realizing that it's such an odd ball front end that you can't find aftermarket parts to improve it, or even service it with things like new bushings etc, I'm almost ready to throw in the towel on these forks. With a XR600 front end you can get all the parts in the world, everyone sells a service kit, springs, etc. Even the 41mm XR250R forks are about the same length as stock XL and you can get a bunch parts for them as well.
TL;DR A fork swap on the XL600R is almost a decision of necessity out of practicality, rather than a performance upgrade.
So I'm thinking about buying a local XL600R. The bike has under 5k miles claimed, and looks like new. What things should I look for on the bike before buying it. Is $1,500 a good price for a bike like this? If I buy it, do you recommend I take the entire bike apart, including the engine and inspect it before a long trip, or just take off and wing it? I need to make a 2,500 mile trip soon, lightly packed. It's an '83 model.
So I got some time to mess with my brakes last night, bleed it out no problem right?
I spent 2 hour trying and trying, but still have nothing. Worked fine before the brake line swap.
The only thing I can think of is that the inner diameter of the banjo I used for the master cylinder is bigger than the threaded fitting of the stock line.
I used a vacuum pump and must have put half a bottle through the system and absolutely no pressure...none
The only thing I can think of doing is getting a new banjo for an xr650 or 400 and see if that works
Open the master cylinder and take the fluid out of it. At the bottom of the master should be a clear plastic cover. Get an ice pick and pop it out. Now you should see two very small holes. Operate the brake lever and see if both are open. If not get a needle and poke the holes to remove the debris. Refill the master and see if pressure returns.
Sorry I've taken so long to answer your question...
I've wanted to take a special picture to illustrate the answer, but I keep forgetting to bring my camera to the shop. Now, I am on a little family-visit-vacation (in San Fran!), so I have time to answer, but of course being here, I REALLY can't take a picture!
So anyway.... what I did was take a piece of 1" x 1" angle and cut off one of the "legs" of the angle material everywhere except the middle six inches or so (the remaining 6 inches of "leg" material is where the cooler actually attaches). I then put gentle bends in the "single-leg" sections of material in order to reach the two mounting points that I'd selected, which are the upper bolt-hole of the lower-front engine mount, and the mounting point for the wire-clip that holds the main wiring bundle as it passes from the steering stem area under the tank towards the CDI. I know that's a mouthful, and hopefully this picture (which I am recycling from my build thread) illustrates it a bit better than a bunch of words:
If you look, you can see the mount bracket I am talking about.
I used Stainless Steel, as I usually do, because I think it is the king of metals (well, the king of the common metals anyway). Steel rusts, paint is temporary; aluminum definitely has it's place, but it's weak. I love stainless.
Thanks for the trouble of posting the oil cooler. I to love stainless.
Hello, just putthe new stator on. The bike started, but what a bad noise under the valves cover. I posted the following video on you tube. Any Advice?
That sounds like a noisy timing chain. The only cure is replacement.