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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.
Thanks for the positive reinforcement. Sounds like a chisel might be invited to the party.
A trick I use to remove bushings from swingarms, or lower control arms, or similar things is to thread a hacksaw blade through the bushing and very carefully slice the bushing lengthwise. Cut very carefully and the arm will not be touched. Once you get a saw blade width slot cut in the bushing it will collapse inward a little and be easier to drive out.
Your quite welcome.
This is what's needed:
Swing Arm/Rising Rate Linkage Bearing Install Tool
Designed for installation of the swingarm bearings on late-model Japanese off-road motorcycles
200 mm long threaded installation bolt
Puller draws bearing into the swingarm
Includes three drivers for use with common bearing sizes
Kits includes driver sizes I.D. 20mm / O.D 26mm, I.D. 21mm / O.D. 26mm & I.D. 22mm / O.D.27mm
I have one in the tool box.
I ordered one.
I am going to assume the gray/white coating on the rocker arm pads is the hard plating. When that wears through and it hits shiny metal it is going to wear fast. Does it seem the exhaust rockers have a shorter life than intakes? A and B rockers from the intake side can be swapped over to exhaust side?
What would cause my bike to sound like a barrel full of nuts and bolts rolling down a hill?!?!
I was on a day trip desert loop in the natl park with my buddy on his v-star. mile 44 my bike starts making a racheting noise, i stop. It increased with revs and got really loud (i thought it was about to blow!) so I shut it off, smoke a bowl and a cigarette, and I go start the bike back up and noise is gone! WTF!! I rode the remaining 40 miles home with no problems and now I'm worried?? it starts fine, no loss of power or anything, I can't seem to make the noise reoccur either.... I couldn't figure out where it was coming from though it sound like the stator side
Atleast I didn't have to ride home on the back of a cruiser, the Honda loves me enough to make it home.
Well just how big of a bowl was it? Because that may make a difference.
dropping a valve seat.
That bearing race is extremely hard. Hacksaw is a no go. I dropped the swingarm out and am using a sawzall. Even that is barely getting a bite.
Hate that when that happens.
When in doubt add lots of heat.
Well put another 25 miles on it going to and from work and such. seems to be fine now but I don't want to write it off as a fluke, probably be ordering the stuff for a top end soon and see what I find.
Well I couldnt wait any longer. After rebuilding my XL600RMG from the ground up I took it around the block half a dozen times today to get it hot and check for oil leaks. Front brake yet to be fitted and back brake shoes still bedding in, but, holy shit, how hard does this thing go???!!!
Running 0.5mm oversize 11:1 Wiseco piston, Kibblewhite valves, guides and springs, and a Staintune muffler from a VTR1000. Goes much, much better than before the rebuild. Clutchless wheelies in first and second gear. I was wondering if any other XL600 owners here are running the 11:1 Wiseco piston and if you've found it made a huge difference to the power the engine produces.
Yeah they can move. When I put the 13t front sprocket on and go offoad, I often find myself getting into a mess before I know it, and I can climb the gnarliest hills around here without even thinking about it. Accidental wheelies if you're not used it :) I don't know what ratio mine is but the receipt from last rebuild just says "WISECO HI-COMP" as one of the parts. Me and my friend were racing around after work one night. he has some v-star 950 thing, and he said his speed was reading 105+ and I "flew by him" :eek1 Don't know how accurate his speedo is and I wasn't looking at mine either, but I have no business to go nearly that fast on anything again that was with stock gearing
Compression is the first wakeup call for sure on these big singles. I have run Wiseco 11:1, 102.4mm which worked well, though it actually calculated out to 10:1 when measured on install which is fine because that is about the upper limit for fuel availability.
After a crankshaft breakage issue I opted for an XR crank which necessitated a new piston. I went with a JE 11:1, 102mm which also calculated out to 10:1. It also works well and runs great, but it is noisier than the wiseco till it warms up.
I got a dremel carbide burr to reach in there and a diamond coated sawzall blade. Tonight see what happens. No heat as I dont want to risk fire.
Editing this post I would like to add the carbide burr works good at cutting a deep gouge into the race. I should have them out tonight.
What is the story on installing an XR crank? Longer stroke sounds like a great idea.
I'm in the middle of putting a ported head with a stage two camshaft on top my Wiseco 11:1 piston. Unfortunately I've run into some stripped cylinder head bolt threads. I've read some suggestions about Heli-Coils and the like so I'll have to figure out what will work best for me.
Nothing ever goes as planned when working on FOBs...
Are you talking about the bolts that thread into the cylinder that are stripped? If so I have had very good results by Heli-Coiling the offending holes. Although I have had my machinist do this procedure on his mill so that the inserts end up in the correct place. Even the holes that have the locating dowels. Both on the early XR600/XL600 (8mm) and the later XR600/XR650l (9mm) inserts.
Yes, the threads that are set into the cylinder jug. Thanks for the tip about having the machinist do it. I take it my best bet is to remove the jug and set it up on a drill press to ensure the insert takes straight and true. Can you reuse the cylinder base gasket or should I get one of those on order?