The XL600 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.

  1. UncleDirt

    UncleDirt Uncivil to idiots.

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    Mine will do 75 pretty easily. The problem is that I get that knock at that speed. And when idling. Y'all have told me that this is the timing chain slapping around and normal. Being conservative with machines to make them last longer (read: cheap) I'm looking to go with a 15 / something combo that will get the rpm's down to where the bike purrs along. Currently, thats at 60 to 65 with the stock tires.

    My 2 cents.:wink:
  2. BrandonR

    BrandonR Been here awhile

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    I tend to thrash mine, it's a toy rather than my daily transport so I have no qualms about running 4-6k which is where the power is. My bike hits about 95 with the stock gearing but it's nowhere near the rev limiter, it's just out of grunt. The bike handles poorly above 75 but it's the chassis that limits it not the power.
  3. Zombie_Stomp

    Zombie_Stomp Aspiring human

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    15/40 is the best for commuting.
  4. UncleDirt

    UncleDirt Uncivil to idiots.

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    :evil Is that 95kph? I'm talking mph. IF I was going down I-70 out of the mountains, with a tail wind, I MIGHT get to 95. At altitude here, we lose power. Got 14t counter sprocket. I haven't checked the rear sprocket, but it is not large. Gonna have to change them for more speed. And more cowbell.:lol3
    Dave
  5. UncleDirt

    UncleDirt Uncivil to idiots.

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    Yup, that's what I was thinking.
  6. handirifle

    handirifle Been here awhile

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    Same thing happened to mine. It's the switch, get a new/used one. Check Fleabay or these guys. http://www.tricountymotorcycles.com/ they were close to me in CA.
  7. Janosh

    Janosh Old Man

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    Homer, Alaska
    You must have taken that picture when it was new.
  8. Janosh

    Janosh Old Man

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    Homer, Alaska
    Sorry, where am I? Oh yeah, 13-15 and 41-44 lets see....big drive gear , smallwheel gear. Try 15/41. I think thats what my 83 had when it would do 100
  9. crag antler

    crag antler In the woods lurking

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    Thanks. I cleaned it but it still wants to act up occasionally.
    I'm ordering a new contact base assembly from Honda of Troy. Only in Ohio so shouldn't take tooo long. Just trying to button things up for my vacation in 2 weeks to Moosehead Lake in Northern Maine.:clap :freaky :1drink :lol3
    New tires coming this week. I'm trying IRC GP-1s. Have to see how they do. My knobbies are just about gone now:eek1
  10. BrandonR

    BrandonR Been here awhile

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    95 MPH, I am at 220ft above sea level.
  11. Waldo308

    Waldo308 Grouchy Olde Pharte

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    Well, we tried to get the '83 XL600 out for a ride up the local mountain after a few short rides on the street.

    Half way to the base of the mountain the shift lever started flopping in about a 120 degree arc. Had to truck it back to the house.

    The lever is tight on the shaft and the shaft can be easily moved over 100 degrees with little resistance. It looks like we're going to have to tear the whole damned engine down, which we were hoping to avoid.

    I've tried to find a complete engine gasket kit but have not seen that on Bike Bandit or Babbit's. Do you have to order several gasket kits? We also want to replace all of the seals while we have it apart.

    Am I just not looking in the right place? Any recommendations from you guys who have already experienced this?

    Thanks for your time.
  12. skeptic

    skeptic Been here awhile

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    EDIT: Ignore this as I didn't accurately read the above post. Sorry

    I am not positive, but I think you have to split the cases to replace the shifter shaft mechanism. If that is true, and the bike is otherwise not in need of repair, why not just weld the shifter to the shaft for a temporary fix. You can cut it off when time comes for rebuild. Maybe use a folding shifter so it does not break easy. Be sure to apply something wet to the case and surrounds so seal and case are not affected by torch heat.
  13. HeadTrauma

    HeadTrauma ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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    I think Service Honda lists gasket sets. They can also be found on eBay, but be sure to get one of the better sets that has metal shim gaskets for the head and head cover.

    He said the shaft itself is moving 120°, which means it broke inside the engine. And yes, the cases have to be split to replace it.
  14. Waldo308

    Waldo308 Grouchy Olde Pharte

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    Skeptic:
    When my son told me what was happening, that was my first thought too. You can imagine how disappointed I was to find that the shift lever wasn't the problem and that the shaft was moving freely. :(: Thanks for the response.

    HeadTrauma:
    Thanks for the suggestion. Tried Service Honda and they don't list anything (that I can find) for the '83 XL's. Good call on the metal gaskets. We ran into this when we had to replace the valve cover gasket. Even then, we found that we had to use a smidgen of sealant to keep it from weeping in certain spots.

    Unless someone else comes up with with an easier (and cheaper) way, It looks like we'll either have to piecemeal the seals and gaskets we need from a couple of different areas on Babbitt's/Bike Bandit or go to our local Honda dealer and really get the shaft. :dunno

    Thanks for the input guys.
  15. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    First thing to do is to pull the clutch cover and check the star piece on the end of the shift drum. Either the spring loaded roller wheel for the star has come loose or the star did. Chech these things first. If this is not it then it's time to dive a little deeper.

    As far as gaskets go I buy just what is needed to do the job. For a complete tear down, Cylinder head and base gaskets, rocker,clutch cover, stator and center case gaskets. This is the best approach. The sets that honda sells have things that are some times not used and ya pay dearly for them.

    Good luck and keep us informed.
  16. Waldo308

    Waldo308 Grouchy Olde Pharte

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    I've pulled the clutch cover off and looked at the roller wheel and star and they seem to be in position. I have not done anything yet to see if they are loose. I was hoping that this was the problem so I wouldn't have to split the cases.

    The only thing that is curious is that it is not in quite the same orientation as shown in the photo in my Clymer's manual. The roller seems to be firmly in position in one of the detents of the star but the star is oriented upside down from what is shown in the illustration. Not sure if that means anything or not.

    I have removed the clutch plates, bearing and the cylinder that presses against the bearing. Now I have to go buy a clutch holding tool so I can remove the nut so the clutch basket can be removed and I can get a closer view of things.

    Thanks for the recommendation on the gaskets.
  17. crag antler

    crag antler In the woods lurking

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    Have you tried stuffing a rag in between the gears to loosen up the nut.
    Don't laugh, I did this when I pulled the clutch basket out of my '83 Suzuki GS1100E. It does actually work. You might get lucky.:clap
  18. HeadTrauma

    HeadTrauma ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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    A rattle gun(impact wrench) will also remove the clutch hub nut without a holder.

    Whatever you do, don't get a clutch holder that bolts onto the posts on the center hub. They tend to break those posts off and then you're SOL unless you have a machinist as a friend.
  19. Waldo308

    Waldo308 Grouchy Olde Pharte

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    Thank you gentlemen. That's why I'm here.....to ask for and receive sage advice from those who have already tread this path and discovered the traps therein.

    Tomorrow (if I'm lucky enough to get home from work at a reasonable hour) I'll stuff a lint-free rag in the gears and get out my "rattlegun" (a new term for me.....I like it!) and give 'er a go. I'll let you know how it works out.

    Thanks again gents! :thumb
  20. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    Put all of the clutch plates and disc's back into the clutch hub and just hold onto the outer hub as you gun the center nut off. IT WORKS. Been doing it this way for YEARS....

    Don't know why you want to pull the clutch though...